11 things I learned in Buenos Aires

By Conner Gorry On February 12, 2010 · 15 Comments

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Feature Photo: noeliadiaco Photo: zaqi

A glimpse of Buenos Aires.

Latin America is my turf.

I’ve written guidebooks to the region since 1998 and have lived in Havana since 2002. I’ve been around the Latino block so to speak, but until my sister-in-law tied the knot in Buenos Aires this past December, I hadn’t had the opportunity to travel to Argentina.

Indeed, the extent of my knowledge of the place barely extended beyond Maradona’s “hand of god” and dulce de leche-stuffed alfajores. Now, after nearly three weeks prowling all kinds of areas – the “villas,” Ciudadela, La Boca and everything in between – I have some opinions to impart about Buenos Aires…

1.

The music, art, and dancing approach a quality I’ve experienced only in Havana and New York. The difference is the offerings are more independently creative than in the former and more economically accessible than in the latter.

Photo: lrargerich

2.

Tragic though it is, the mullet is alive and well. Ditto the rat tail, nasty worm-like dreadlocks, and other unfortunate hairstyles that died long ago (with good cause) in other latitudes.

3.

The entire city is a minefield of dogshit. When it rains, the sidewalks run with floating turds. Cursed are those caught out in this river of canine feces wearing only flip flops. Pooper scooper law, anyone?

4.

Buenos Aires may be the world’s greatest city for ice cream addicts. The night we arrived, we settled in with the family, swigged a bit of wine and smoked a few cigars. Just before 2am my brother-in-law suggested we go out for ice cream.

Within minutes, I was indulging in some of the best, most affordable ice cream of my life – no small accolade coming from me, an amateur Coppelia aficionado and veteran of the 45-minute wait for the 5 cent scoops served up in that historical parlor. The variety and quality of the Argentine product were awe inspiring in equal measure. And the flavors. Sambayón? (See note A below)

5.

Give the people the right to smoke pot in public and they will, with gusto.

Photo: j-cornelius

6.

Sorry to report: the carne ain’t all that. Since I was visiting during the holidays and a wedding, I had ample opportunity to sample everything from blood sausage and lamb to goat and beef tenderloin. It was a bit overwhelming, this compulsion Argentine’s have to eat copious amounts of meat at BBQ events known as asados.

One gut-splitting Saturday, we went to an asado in the afternoon and another in the evening. At both affairs, heavy rib racks, interminable chains of sausages, and slabs of beef sizzled over natural charcoal, lacing the air with its smoky perfume. Unfortunately, the meat was often overcooked for my taste; the blood sausage was chunky and black (only for hardcore carnivores, which I am not); and save for an exquisite sausage criollo procured by my brother-in-law, most of the meat just wasn’t the high quality, grass-fed beef I was led to expect. (See note B below)

Having said all that, Buenos Aires is a hostile destination for vegetarians. Unless you can live on chimichurri. This simple condiment of oil, vinegar, parsley (fields of it), red pepper, oregano, garlic, and a couple of other herbs is so damn toothsome, it just may be life-sustaining.

7.

From the highways of Caracas to the honking cacophony of Islamabad, I have never seen worse drivers than the locos that terrorize Buenos Aires. It’s no wonder traffic accidents are the leading cause of death there. As the old saying goes: it’s better to lose a minute of your life than your life in a minute…

Photo: zaqi

8.

If there’s an accent in the world more annoying than the whiny sing song of Buenos Aires, we’ve yet to hear it. (I’ve received a lot of dissenting opinions on this point, but that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!)

9.

The passion porteños have for fresh flowers is refreshing – and the erotic scent of jasmine carried on the hot winds of the Southern Cone summer is thoroughly intoxicating.

10.

I can still go out dancing and cavorting into the wee hours, returning home while others are commuting to work.

11.

Buenos Aires is a nice place to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there.

Notes

A. That first night I tried several flavors I had never heard of. One of them was the inimitable sambayón, made from farm fresh eggs and glugs and glugs of wine. Best place to sample this and other creamy, dreamy marvels: Heladería La Flor de Almagro (Since 1933! Located at: Estado de Israel 4727; tel: 4854-0717 – home delivery is, of course, available).

B. My Argentine friends proffered two reasons for this: 1) that porteños (folks from the capital) don’t know how to select and buy meat and 2) much of the domestic beef production in Argentina is being switched from grass-fed to genetically-modified soy-fed. ¡Buen provecho!

About The Author

Conner Gorry

Conner Gorry is a freelance writer and author of over a dozen Lonely Planet guides. Conner has called Havana home for 8 years, where she smokes a daily cigar while cranking out her blog Here is Havana. To keep plaintains on the table, she works as a journalist and editor for MEDICC Review, Cuba Absolutely, and other publications. Future travel itineraries include The Yucatán, Haiti, Guatemala, and Ireland.

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Life as an expat in Havana, Cuba (7 comments)

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http://AGlimpseofBA Michael S

Conner Gory’s article on Buenos Aires was interesting but negative in tone. Took away an impression that B.A. is not a nice place to visit.
linda

I liked the realistic tone… I’ve often visited places and felt like everything I’d read about it may as well have been written by the Dept of Tourism.
http://cartasargentinas.com Ludmilla Lima

Most of what she says is realistic. And this is just cuzz she DOES NOT lived there!

If she lived in Buenos Aires, she would know so many realistic stuff that she would be ashamed to write.

I have a blog myself, about Buenos Aires and Argentina for Brazilians. And I am realistic. Indeed, people seem not to like to read the sad truth about some places, just to come later and say one was so right about it.

I am realistic about it. But I’ll just let people be frightened by Buenos Aires other than me. You wouldn’t imagine!

Just pinpointing something: this excuse some Argentines gave her about Porteños donot know how to select and buy meat… well, they have to be from the countryside. Men of the countryside and porteños accuse each other of things. Still, these same peple were eating the same “horrible meat”, am I right?

Truth is that Argentines do not really eat the most expensive parts of the cow. Their preferred cuts are others. Much said about the lomo, but it is not that people really eat it in a daily basis… Don’t leave without visiting Cabaña Las Lilas, in Puerto Madero, best lomo in town, run by a Brazilian group actually – yeah, it might be sad for Argentines. =)

Last but not least, one I wanted to try sambayón and someone at the counter at Freddo – a client – looks at me and says: “You wont like it.” “Why?” “This is a flavour for older people.” What!? Well, I really didn’t.

For great helados, try Persicco before you leave. I still think Italy is the place for helados though! =) Saludos!
http://matadornights.com Kate

I would argue that the drivers are better drivers than I am. I would be mortified to get behind the wheel here. To get through the city without incident (as the majority do every day) means they are better drivers than I am!

Also, I really disagree with you on the accent.

I think the meat you get depends on the cuts and the restaurant. And yes, it is cooked more, but I find myself liking it more all the time. For the cuts on offer at most asados, they are better well done.

Your less common take on Buenos Aires is appreciated. I enjoyed this piece.

K
Dave

As someone who used to live in Buenos Aires, I’d have to say I think exactly the opposite of the city. I can see how someone visiting the city might not pick up on the charm and culture that is alive in that city. There are not all that many sights as there might be in Europe, and sure there are parts of the culture that as an American can be infuriating. Yet, for me that adds to the charm. Buenos Aires might not be the most efficient city, it might not be the cleanest, or even the best, but the passion, the disfunction, and the culture seep in, and although there were times I would curse the city and its people, its is one of the most exciting and wonderful places to live in the world.
Timo

Dave, I wonder for how long have you lived in Buenos Aires. What do you mean by living. Not my intention to accuse anyone, but most gringos come to Buenos Aires to do absolutely nothing and just stretch out in bars and cafes during the days and Irish pubs (?) at night. Even if you did something, living out on dollars there is NOT the porteño experience.

The experience is really dealing with this burocracy when you NEED it to work, when your LIFE depends on it, and this is not beautiful. And for that to happen you have to REALLY live there, have a regular job, earn in pesos and ALL the disasters of an Argentine life will happen in YOUR life as well.

Coming to Buenos Aires for a visit is still nice (despite the rip offs – everywhere!). But living in Buenos Aires???

So really, I STRONGLY disagree.

And hey, the lack of efficiency and cleanliness does insult even other latin americans, so it is NOT something only US citizens would be disturbed with. That’s for you to see how bad the situation is.

http://matadornights.com Kate

Timo, I wonder where you’re from. Are you from here? I’m just curious.

I earn in pesos and I barely scrape by and am from the US.

I can see what Dave is talking about, though. I wonder if you’ve ever spent time in the US (I’m assuming that’s where he’s from). If you think the US is a big picnic, I think you might want to think again.

I appreciate one thing especially about Buenos Aires. Maybe I’ve just been really lucky, but I’ve met some fabulous people here. And while everyone seems to have their worries, when we get the chance to relax and hang out (which isn’t sprawled out in a bar every night), it seems my friends are warmer, more assured with their own personalities and not pretending to be someone they’re not like a lot of people I’ve known in the US.

There are low cost opportunities to enjoy art and culture. Music and theatre are highly valued here, and while not everyone has the luxury of the free time that a visitor might have, the chance to go to the park and see a cultural event on the weekend is a possibility for anyone with bus fare.

I imagine when I go for my residency, I’ll see what you mean about the paperwork. Many friends have had problems with all the tramites. Still, it’s easy to see only the bad when you’re mired in the crap of daily living. I know the government leaves a lot to be desired. I know I’m coming from a place of privilege in general and haven’t struggled to find a job that helps me to get by as I am a native English speaker.

But I have to say, the city is beautiful in a way I have never seen in the US and I’ve been all over. And maybe it’s something about the economic hardship and bad government, but the people aren’t a pacified mass of unthinking television watchers here (in my experience). I realize that I don’t know everything there is to know about the city or the country, but I think your obvious venom for anyone who enjoys the culture here is a little misplaced.

Timo

Hey, Kate, how are you?

“Timo, I wonder where you’re from. Are you from here? I’m just curious.”

Sure you might be thinking i am an angry argie against all forms of americans. You’re wrong. I am ALSO a foreigner and ALSO used to earn in pesos – untill I left Buenos Aires. Satisfied?

“I earn in pesos and I barely scrape by and am from the US.”

Great, so you confirm what I as saying.

“I can see what Dave is talking about, though. I wonder if you’ve ever spent time in the US (I’m assuming that’s where he’s from). If you think the US is a big picnic, I think you might want to think again.”

What the hell do you mean? And most importantly, where the heck did you take that from? No place is a picnic BUT Buenos Aires for foreigners ONLY. Barely the last place in the wourld where foreign money has SOME value – inflation is doing its job to undermine that! dont worry.

Anyway, I think you cannot read a comment and you are just trying to pick up a fight.

“I appreciate one thing especially about Buenos Aires. Maybe I’ve just been really lucky, but I’ve met some fabulous people here. And while everyone seems to have their worries, when we get the chance to relax and hang out (which isn’t sprawled out in a bar every night), it seems my friends are warmer, more assured with their own personalities and not pretending to be someone they’re not like a lot of people I’ve known in the US.”

Great for you. But that depends a LOT on the culture you come from. Evern wondered about those who come form a place where people are a LOT better than in Buenos Aires? I think people in Buenos Aires POSE a hell of a lot and do not come close to the TOES of those in my own place. Does not mean I did not meet nice people in Buenos. Just means the amount of posers and idiots by square meter is considerably high in Buenos Aires than anywhere else I’ve been to. In your case, we have to also consider US citizens dont travel a lot, and I’ve met LOTS who had their passports done just to come to Buenos Aires – even more now after YOUR crisis. So… you think whatever you want. Actually, people were not the issue, but since you brought that up…

Does it REALLY matter where i am from? Oh my god, this was Matador’s website or what? =D

“There are low cost opportunities to enjoy art and culture.”

This is 1- cuzz some have dollars 2-most people cannot pay more than that, so…

“Music and theatre are highly valued here, and while not everyone has the luxury of the free time that a visitor might have, the chance to go to the park and see a cultural event on the weekend is a possibility for anyone with bus fare.”

I am strating to wonder if you came for the middle of a farm or an Amish community and NEVER saw that in a city anywhere else.

Bus fares: subsidized by the government. WRONG thing to do when these companies have been privatized and should make their own inversions. And YES they do have money. Do you REALLY earn in pesos??? Or just wanted to attack my arguments, which are TOTALLY true? Ever been to Plaza Serrano? I’ve been there BEFORE this ridiculous circus was there for foreigners, and more precisely in 2001, with my argentine friends, crying and thinking what to do with their lives after their (last) crisis – if we do not count the current one, of course.

“I imagine when I go for my residency, I’ll see what you mean about the paperwork. Many friends have had problems with all the tramites. Still, it’s easy to see only the bad when you’re mired in the crap of daily living.”

By that time, this iwill be the only thing you’ll see, and might be the LAST thing you wanna see – I mean, you will want to leave the country, believe me. [So you work in Argentina and you are still illegal? Oh my god, what would happen if argies did the SAME in the US...???]

“I know the government leaves a lot to be desired. I know I’m coming from a place of privilege in general and haven’t struggled to find a job that helps me to get by as I am a native English speaker.”

If you’re an US citizen I dare say you are not coming from any place of privilege in terms of “a lot to desire” and “corruption” etc etc etc. Just dont fall in the argentine trap of blaming the government for everything. All of your amazing friends are to blame for what happens in their own country. Remember that.

“But I have to say, the city is beautiful in a way I have never seen in the US”

Again, you frighten me… where do you come form? Go read a lil bit about Buenos Aires and WHY did they invent this “escenario” (yeah, I mean cenography!) to live in. Go, go.

“…and I’ve been all over. And maybe it’s something about the economic hardship and bad government, but the people aren’t a pacified mass of unthinking television watchers here (in my experience).”

REALLY? I just think you buy the crap of what you see and your friends tell you about buenos. You need some good 5, 8 years or forever until you see I am just saying the truth, not being harsh on the city nor anything.

I basically say what any honest argentine would say. HONEST.

“I realize that I don’t know everything there is to know about the city or the country, but I think your obvious venom for anyone who enjoys the culture here is a little misplaced.”

And I think you exageration IS misplaced. you just defend Buenos Aires too much, thats the problem.

You wanted to pick up a fight, that’s all. I said it above.

An THAT is what is misplaced, cuzz you could only ask for my email address to discuss this, but no, you did not. you have a lil prob, girl.

Chau, che!
http://www.hereishavana.wordpress.com Conner

I seem to have touched a nerve! I guess Im doing something right.

A couple of clarifications (just in case ya’ll want to fajarse más)

*Im originally from NY but have lived in Havana for 8 years (talk about infuriating!).
*I was in BsAs for a family wedding – I think I went to 3 restaurants in the 3 weeks I was there
*My favorite cut of meat was actually one of the cheapest – matahambre (which was delicious, in contrast to the other matahambre rolled unit which was too kitchen sink for my taste)

@Michael: Im sorry you found the article negative. Must be the cynical NYer in me

@Ludmilla: A friend took me to Persicco and it was, indeed, delicious, but nearly triple the price of our little local HA in Paternal. Designer stuff, indeed. Ditto Freddo. I can see how sambayón would be an acquired taste. Maybe it’s the hard core booze in there that sucked me in!

@Kate: some of our closest friends are Portenos, including my new brother in law, so I agree totally with the people quality (although, like everywhere, you take the good with the bad!)

Thanks for reading folks and keep on truckin!
http://cartasargentinas.com Ludmilla Lima

Hello, Conner, thanx for answering =)

Oh, yeah you are right again about the price. And to my surprise I’ve realised Persicco has become so much more expensive. Guess what? I’ll try Flor de Almagro =)
*Cheers*
Teo Valdés

Okay, so I’m just going to say I lived in BA for 6 months, and I loved it. I’m from the US. And I speak Spanish as a non-native speaker.

And yes I think a lot of the things Conner says about it are very true… I still love it. I worked as an English teacher and earned in pesos. I definitely used my savings in dollars to help sustain my life, and I feel for the porteños who struggle financially.

But when it comes down to it I just loved the people there. And it still seems that when I run into Argentines in other countries, I still hit it off with them in a special way. I am making plans to go back to get a master’s degree at the UBA or maybe to teach in an international school. I can’t wait to go back. I just watched “El secreto de sus ojos” and had so many sentimental memories.

Tons of people love BA. It’s a tourist hot spot. It’s also one of the most active CouchSurfing communities in the world. And sure it has it’s downs, but it’s definitely worth a trip.

Oh, and the accent. Me re encanta. I’ve actually adopted the Argentine accent myself, and almost anyone I meet from Latin America or Spain likes it. That’s one thing I definitely have to disagree with Conner about.
http://www.hereishavana.wordpress.com Conner

Teo has hit the nail on the head – definitely worth the trip. Even if you don’t find the accent “very enchanting!”

travel on!
Mariana

Maybe I can say some things with authority here. I was born and raised in Buenos Aires, but I have lived in the United States (legally – I am a US citizen), for what is now, most of my life. I travel to my hometown at least once a year, and stay for about two months. While there (my husband is American born but has been to BA so many times and has lived there as well), we try to enjoy the good and bad of the city. To accomplish this, sometimes we look at the city just like tourists do and sometimes just like Portenos do. The good, the bad and the ugly. So, let me state the following: the good – Buenos Aires is beautiful, the meat is absolutely great (not just in BA but in other parts of the country), the people are friendly particularly when you are a tourist. The ice-cream is superb. Nightlife abounds. One can never get bored in Buenos Aires, particularly with so many FREE cultural events one can attend. The bad: dog poop is true and I hate it. The city is making an effort to curb this, but ultimately it is the dog owners that have to take ownership of the situation. It has improved I have to say — so slowly but surely, it will get there eventually. I have traveled to Paris and it is the same problem. There are more immigrant groups from neighboring countries who have settled illegally. This has brought along petty theft and crime which we had never experienced before in Buenos Aires. Locals do complain about it — the city government is trying to find solutions to the problem, real solutions. The ugly: bureaucracy. This was inherited from the Italians and the Spaniards, mainly. It is nothing new, it has always been so. One can only hope things will change eventually, but have they changed in Italy, Spain or France? I still have my hopes.

Now, I have lived in the United States for most of my life, and I have lived in large and small cities. Many large US cities are extremely unfriendly and intimidating. Buenos Aires is just the opposite. I dare any foreign person who has lived in Buenos Aires to state otherwise. My husband was not born there and does not speak Spanish fluently. Still, he manages to move about on his own, deal with locals, and do “tramites” when necessary. He has never felt intimidated by the size or population of the city. Same goes for other people we know.

In conclusion, this article is completely bias and superficial. Traveling to a city for a few days is not enough to comprehend, in this case, the complex nature of the people of Buenos Aires – a nature that makes this city so exciting, passionate, crazy and mysterious. One has to live like a local, and in so doing one will get to love the city just like the locals do, with all the GOOD, the BAD and the UGLY. And lastly, no city in the world is perfect, thus none of them can cast the first stone either.
http://hereishavana.wordpress.com Conner

Hola Mariana and thanks for joining the conversation.

I totally agree that “Traveling to a city for a few days is not enough to comprehend” which is why I made my quick parachute into BsAs so apparent right there in the title. I live in Havana, so I know what this “Ive just arrived and I know ALL about this culture/people/country”

Where I don’t agree with you, at all, is here:
“There are more immigrant groups from neighboring countries who have settled illegally. This has brought along petty theft and crime which we had never experienced before in Buenos Aires”

Never, ever, ever was there petty crime or theft in BsAs? You just can’t say that about any city – Paris, NY or Stokholm – anywhere and this anti-immigrant bias is one which I found in BsAs but decided not to write on just yet. (And let’s no go into other types of theft for which BsAs is infamous)
http://hereishavana.wordpress.com Conner

Whoops! seems the editors chopped my title without me noticing!

the original title of this post was: 11 Things I Learned 19 Days in Buenos Aires

My bad!

11 things I learned in Buenos Aires

1.

2.

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6.

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