the original title of this post was: 11 Things I Learned 19 Days in Buenos Aires

My bad!

I totally agree that “Traveling to a city for a few days is not enough to comprehend” which is why I made my quick parachute into BsAs so apparent right there in the title. I live in Havana, so I know what this “Ive just arrived and I know ALL about this culture/people/country”

Where I don’t agree with you, at all, is here:
“There are more immigrant groups from neighboring countries who have settled illegally. This has brought along petty theft and crime which we had never experienced before in Buenos Aires”

Never, ever, ever was there petty crime or theft in BsAs? You just can’t say that about any city – Paris, NY or Stokholm – anywhere and this anti-immigrant bias is one which I found in BsAs but decided not to write on just yet. (And let’s no go into other types of theft for which BsAs is infamous)

Now, I have lived in the United States for most of my life, and I have lived in large and small cities. Many large US cities are extremely unfriendly and intimidating. Buenos Aires is just the opposite. I dare any foreign person who has lived in Buenos Aires to state otherwise. My husband was not born there and does not speak Spanish fluently. Still, he manages to move about on his own, deal with locals, and do “tramites” when necessary. He has never felt intimidated by the size or population of the city. Same goes for other people we know.

In conclusion, this article is completely bias and superficial. Traveling to a city for a few days is not enough to comprehend, in this case, the complex nature of the people of Buenos Aires – a nature that makes this city so exciting, passionate, crazy and mysterious. One has to live like a local, and in so doing one will get to love the city just like the locals do, with all the GOOD, the BAD and the UGLY. And lastly, no city in the world is perfect, thus none of them can cast the first stone either.

travel on!

And yes I think a lot of the things Conner says about it are very true… I still love it. I worked as an English teacher and earned in pesos. I definitely used my savings in dollars to help sustain my life, and I feel for the porteños who struggle financially.

But when it comes down to it I just loved the people there. And it still seems that when I run into Argentines in other countries, I still hit it off with them in a special way. I am making plans to go back to get a master’s degree at the UBA or maybe to teach in an international school. I can’t wait to go back. I just watched “El secreto de sus ojos” and had so many sentimental memories.

Tons of people love BA. It’s a tourist hot spot. It’s also one of the most active CouchSurfing communities in the world. And sure it has it’s downs, but it’s definitely worth a trip.

Oh, and the accent. Me re encanta. I’ve actually adopted the Argentine accent myself, and almost anyone I meet from Latin America or Spain likes it. That’s one thing I definitely have to disagree with Conner about.

Oh, yeah you are right again about the price. And to my surprise I’ve realised Persicco has become so much more expensive. Guess what? I’ll try Flor de Almagro =)
*Cheers*

A couple of clarifications (just in case ya’ll want to fajarse más)

*Im originally from NY but have lived in Havana for 8 years (talk about infuriating!).
*I was in BsAs for a family wedding – I think I went to 3 restaurants in the 3 weeks I was there
*My favorite cut of meat was actually one of the cheapest – matahambre (which was delicious, in contrast to the other matahambre rolled unit which was too kitchen sink for my taste)

@Michael: Im sorry you found the article negative. Must be the cynical NYer in me

@Ludmilla: A friend took me to Persicco and it was, indeed, delicious, but nearly triple the price of our little local HA in Paternal. Designer stuff, indeed. Ditto Freddo. I can see how sambayón would be an acquired taste. Maybe it’s the hard core booze in there that sucked me in!

@Kate: some of our closest friends are Portenos, including my new brother in law, so I agree totally with the people quality (although, like everywhere, you take the good with the bad!)

Thanks for reading folks and keep on truckin!

“Timo, I wonder where you’re from. Are you from here? I’m just curious.”

Sure you might be thinking i am an angry argie against all forms of americans. You’re wrong. I am ALSO a foreigner and ALSO used to earn in pesos – untill I left Buenos Aires. Satisfied?

“I earn in pesos and I barely scrape by and am from the US.”

Great, so you confirm what I as saying.

“I can see what Dave is talking about, though. I wonder if you’ve ever spent time in the US (I’m assuming that’s where he’s from). If you think the US is a big picnic, I think you might want to think again.”

What the hell do you mean? And most importantly, where the heck did you take that from? No place is a picnic BUT Buenos Aires for foreigners ONLY. Barely the last place in the wourld where foreign money has SOME value – inflation is doing its job to undermine that! dont worry.

Anyway, I think you cannot read a comment and you are just trying to pick up a fight.

“I appreciate one thing especially about Buenos Aires. Maybe I’ve just been really lucky, but I’ve met some fabulous people here. And while everyone seems to have their worries, when we get the chance to relax and hang out (which isn’t sprawled out in a bar every night), it seems my friends are warmer, more assured with their own personalities and not pretending to be someone they’re not like a lot of people I’ve known in the US.”

Great for you. But that depends a LOT on the culture you come from. Evern wondered about those who come form a place where people are a LOT better than in Buenos Aires? I think people in Buenos Aires POSE a hell of a lot and do not come close to the TOES of those in my own place. Does not mean I did not meet nice people in Buenos. Just means the amount of posers and idiots by square meter is considerably high in Buenos Aires than anywhere else I’ve been to. In your case, we have to also consider US citizens dont travel a lot, and I’ve met LOTS who had their passports done just to come to Buenos Aires – even more now after YOUR crisis. So… you think whatever you want. Actually, people were not the issue, but since you brought that up…

Does it REALLY matter where i am from? Oh my god, this was Matador’s website or what? =D

“There are low cost opportunities to enjoy art and culture.”

This is 1- cuzz some have dollars 2-most people cannot pay more than that, so…

“Music and theatre are highly valued here, and while not everyone has the luxury of the free time that a visitor might have, the chance to go to the park and see a cultural event on the weekend is a possibility for anyone with bus fare.”

I am strating to wonder if you came for the middle of a farm or an Amish community and NEVER saw that in a city anywhere else.

Bus fares: subsidized by the government. WRONG thing to do when these companies have been privatized and should make their own inversions. And YES they do have money. Do you REALLY earn in pesos??? Or just wanted to attack my arguments, which are TOTALLY true? Ever been to Plaza Serrano? I’ve been there BEFORE this ridiculous circus was there for foreigners, and more precisely in 2001, with my argentine friends, crying and thinking what to do with their lives after their (last) crisis – if we do not count the current one, of course.

“I imagine when I go for my residency, I’ll see what you mean about the paperwork. Many friends have had problems with all the tramites. Still, it’s easy to see only the bad when you’re mired in the crap of daily living.”

By that time, this iwill be the only thing you’ll see, and might be the LAST thing you wanna see – I mean, you will want to leave the country, believe me. [So you work in Argentina and you are still illegal? Oh my god, what would happen if argies did the SAME in the US...???]

“I know the government leaves a lot to be desired. I know I’m coming from a place of privilege in general and haven’t struggled to find a job that helps me to get by as I am a native English speaker.”

If you’re an US citizen I dare say you are not coming from any place of privilege in terms of “a lot to desire” and “corruption” etc etc etc. Just dont fall in the argentine trap of blaming the government for everything. All of your amazing friends are to blame for what happens in their own country. Remember that.

“But I have to say, the city is beautiful in a way I have never seen in the US”

Again, you frighten me… where do you come form? Go read a lil bit about Buenos Aires and WHY did they invent this “escenario” (yeah, I mean cenography!) to live in. Go, go.

“…and I’ve been all over. And maybe it’s something about the economic hardship and bad government, but the people aren’t a pacified mass of unthinking television watchers here (in my experience).”

REALLY? I just think you buy the crap of what you see and your friends tell you about buenos. You need some good 5, 8 years or forever until you see I am just saying the truth, not being harsh on the city nor anything.

I basically say what any honest argentine would say. HONEST.

“I realize that I don’t know everything there is to know about the city or the country, but I think your obvious venom for anyone who enjoys the culture here is a little misplaced.”

And I think you exageration IS misplaced. you just defend Buenos Aires too much, thats the problem.

You wanted to pick up a fight, that’s all. I said it above.

An THAT is what is misplaced, cuzz you could only ask for my email address to discuss this, but no, you did not. you have a lil prob, girl.

Chau, che!

I earn in pesos and I barely scrape by and am from the US.

I can see what Dave is talking about, though. I wonder if you’ve ever spent time in the US (I’m assuming that’s where he’s from). If you think the US is a big picnic, I think you might want to think again.

I appreciate one thing especially about Buenos Aires. Maybe I’ve just been really lucky, but I’ve met some fabulous people here. And while everyone seems to have their worries, when we get the chance to relax and hang out (which isn’t sprawled out in a bar every night), it seems my friends are warmer, more assured with their own personalities and not pretending to be someone they’re not like a lot of people I’ve known in the US.

There are low cost opportunities to enjoy art and culture. Music and theatre are highly valued here, and while not everyone has the luxury of the free time that a visitor might have, the chance to go to the park and see a cultural event on the weekend is a possibility for anyone with bus fare.

I imagine when I go for my residency, I’ll see what you mean about the paperwork. Many friends have had problems with all the tramites. Still, it’s easy to see only the bad when you’re mired in the crap of daily living. I know the government leaves a lot to be desired. I know I’m coming from a place of privilege in general and haven’t struggled to find a job that helps me to get by as I am a native English speaker.

But I have to say, the city is beautiful in a way I have never seen in the US and I’ve been all over. And maybe it’s something about the economic hardship and bad government, but the people aren’t a pacified mass of unthinking television watchers here (in my experience). I realize that I don’t know everything there is to know about the city or the country, but I think your obvious venom for anyone who enjoys the culture here is a little misplaced.

The experience is really dealing with this burocracy when you NEED it to work, when your LIFE depends on it, and this is not beautiful. And for that to happen you have to REALLY live there, have a regular job, earn in pesos and ALL the disasters of an Argentine life will happen in YOUR life as well.

Coming to Buenos Aires for a visit is still nice (despite the rip offs – everywhere!). But living in Buenos Aires???

So really, I STRONGLY disagree.

And hey, the lack of efficiency and cleanliness does insult even other latin americans, so it is NOT something only US citizens would be disturbed with. That’s for you to see how bad the situation is.