Photo: ZouteDrop Feature Photo: Spiros2004
An American English teacher in Thailand navigates wildly different cultural standards for how women should behave.

I am a teacher for a small school outside of Bangkok. I live in the close-knit community that surrounds the school.

One of the most salient things I have noticed here is that within this society there is a reigning thought that women are vessels of sexuality. Any prompt to the male species, even one as diminutive as a “hello” or a wave of the hand, is seen as eliciting their latent sexual desires.

I have repeatedly been asked by my school’s director to not talk to the men in the neighborhood or even offer them a smile and a wave. She explained that this implies that I am interested in sex. She reproached me because she had “heard” I was waving to the security guards by school (there are a lot of gossipers in town).

My shock turned into anger. I was being scolded for acting out of common courtesy: saying hello and acknowledging someone. This way of thinking about how women should behave towards men can make me livid; I believe it forces women to heed to these supposed “weaknesses” of men.

After the anger came guilt. I am made to feel I’ve done something wrong, which can be extraordinarily upsetting. The topic itself creates most of the guilt: “overt sexuality.” My director is placing the blame on my supposed lack of restraint. This kind of admonishment is very personal. At times, it has felt like an attack on my self-respect as a woman: she might just as well have called me promiscuous.

Even though I came here knowing that I would have to tone down my own habits and customs, it’s gotten to the point where these limitations infringe on who I am. My personality overall is friendly and outgoing. To have my affability be seen as somehow inappropriate is exasperating. Was I supposed to walk home everyday with my head down?

More often than not, I feel like nothing I’m doing is right.

Furthermore, my director is largely non-communicative when it comes to seeking the truth about any situation. She will reprimand me without ever asking me if what she’s heard is true. I’ll defend myself, and because she doesn’t want any more conflict she’ll just “yes” me out the door. This avoidance thwarts any opportunity to really try and understand each other or come to an armistice.

I can understand that Thai women believe the Western norm of common courtesy is suggestive, and I know that trying to amend my behavior is a matter of respecting their culture and of not wanting to offend anyone for the time I am living in this community.

However, it has become glaringly obvious to me where the woman’s place is in Thailand, and it makes me uncomfortable. Women stay at home with the children and run their cottage vendors. They hang out together. It’s easy to see why there is so much gossip here: the women have all this time to converse and come to conclusions about those that are different from them.

I have come to think that much of the emphasis on my “inappropriate” behavior is because I am a foreigner who is incredibly obvious in this neighborhood.

For example, I feel singled out as offensive because of my Western dress. Showing shoulders or knees supposedly sends a message of sexual availability. But I have seen Thai girls wearing shorts and showing shoulders. When I’ve brought this up, it is explained that the rules are different for me because I am a teacher as well as a Westerner.

After becoming aware of this “rule” I never feel comfortable leaving my house without my knees or shoulders covered. My opinion is that it’s not worth the scrutiny. When I go into Bangkok, I’ve taken up changing in restaurant bathrooms as soon as I get out of my little town. I can’t express how good the feeling is.

So, how do I negotiate my identity and my personality as established by my own culture with these new cultural rules?

Part of what has made me feel better about being here in this situation is that I’ve realized I can’t hope to fully integrate and that I don’t necessarily want to. I have also learned how to draw my own ethical, personal and cultural boundaries.

I can observe a certain cultural difference, such as the significance of covering shoulders, and respect it. However, there are other cultural boundaries that to which I just won’t make concessions. So despite all of the taboos, I have not closed myself off. Some of my most valuable experiences in Thailand have been nights spent sharing beers with the male Thai teachers. I can’t begin to describe how taboo this is: a woman hanging out with men, not to mention drinking.

I have had older men and women in the neighborhood who speak passable English publicly chastise me because they have seen me with a glass of beer. This makes me infuriated. I want to ask them: “Why do you care?” or “Why does this bother you?” In these situations, I have to bite down so as to keep my cool.

Yet I keep doing it. The Thai men and I talk about life and language. Most of my Thai language competence and understanding of the culture has come through these sessions. Our hangouts happen spontaneously and also somewhat surreptitiously.

These interactions connect me to a culture and a community that the majority of time I feel outside of. More importantly, I have created friendships and human connections through socializing this way that I have no hope of having with most of the Thai women here.

In my isolation I’ve become even more hypersensitive to my daily activities and behaviors. More often than not, I am being watched, particularly by Thai women who gossip relentlessly. I am observed so closely because I am a farang (foreigner). Anything I do out of the ordinary may just as well be performed on a stage. However, I know that I shouldn’t let these aspects control my life.

My reasons for coming to Thailand were to escape the commitments and restrictions of the western world. But look what I have found: more restrictions.

I can remember myself before moving to Thailand. I consistently said that I thought the most crucial thing I would learn through this journey would be patience, and I do think I have gained an enormous amount of patience and tolerance.

And yet I still have so much further to go. I’m not sure if I will make it, if I will be able to fully embrace these differences that make me so indignant and challenge me so much, but I know I will go home seeing my own culture in a different light. And in the meantime I’ll continue challenging and obeying the cultural rules here, testing the limits of my own cultural beliefs, ethics, and identity.

Culture + Religion
 

About The Author

Katherine Stone

Katherine Stone is traveling through Southeast Asia on a one-way ticket, chronicling life in Thailand as an English teacher. She's just a girl who fiends for the yet-to-be discovered. You can read more about her reflections on locales and culture all over Thailand at A Bobo's Muse.

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  • http://milesofabbie.com Abbie

    Thanks for sharing your story so honestly, Katherine, great piece!

  • Heidi

    Thailand is nice for foreign MEN. Try Indonesia or Philippines next, and maybe avoid the small towns!!! Thanks for sharing this….I’m not too surprised; been there on a short trip.

    • katherine

      Heidi,
      I’m in Indonesia now. Amazing country from what I’ve seen so far! Heading to Borneo next week. I’m actually thinking of relocating to Indonesia. And the Philippines is definitely on my list!

  • http://hikerjch.wordpress.com Jess

    I can really relate to your story. I am living in India right now and it is the same way. I struggle with wanting to rebel and wear and act how i want and then realizing I should be respectful. I am going to Thailand in a month, I was hoping it would be better there but i guess no luck. Happy travels

    • katherine

      Jess,
      if you are headed to Bangkok, you can wear whatever you want. Now that I have gotten familiarized with the culture it makes me feel more like I belong to dress the way they do. It’s a matter of respecting them, but i’ve found you also gain respect back. I’m heading to India next, in September. Can’t wait. If you have any advice, I’ll gladly receive it!

  • http://onceatraveler.com Turner

    Well said, Katherine. I heard similar stories of a woman teaching in Surat Thani. She also took issue with students calling her fat.

    “Part of what has made me feel better about being here in this situation is that I’ve realized I can’t hope to fully integrate and that I don’t necessarily want to.” Right on – felt the same way in Japan.

    • katherine

      Turner,
      I’ve have had my kids call me fat before. I’ve heard them call other people fat. I don’t think it’s meant in a really malicious way. It’s just them being really honest. I don’t really understand that aspect. When it comes to conflict, they avoid it at all costs, but in this case they just throw the word fat around like it’s not offensive to someone. I don’t think I’ll ever understand. However, I am aware that Thai culture is very beauty conscious.

  • http://amandasfulbright.blogspot.com Amanda

    Oh giirl, I know the feeling. In Bangladesh, we have to wear what I affectionately call a ‘boob scarf’.. an orna is a scarf you wear to cover your chest. constantly is mine falling off and women running to fix me. wearing additional clothing in this heat makes no sense! and now, even when i go to a nice expat restaurant, i can’t leave with one–i feel uncomfortable. and I’m with you on the making friends with men.. my work is on women’s empowerment and on a personal level, i can’t relate to women as friends so most of my friends are men (which i think makes my apartment guards think i’m a call girl..)

    it’s hard suddenly being blatantly new to a homogeneous community, esp from growing up in white middle class US. just existing makes us interesting and curiosities run so wild it becomes intrusive. i hard to constantly keep up your cool and i think it’s okay to break every once in a while–no one is perfect and can always be an open-minded traveler and constantly understanding.. because cultures are YEARS in the making, deep rooted and constantly evolving. how can we understand something that deep so quickly, or something that is constantly changing? you’re so right on patience, and i wish you the best of luck with that!

  • http://yaramaz.livejournal.com maryanne

    I was so happy to read that I was not the only woman to have dealt with this. I lived in central Turkey for two years a few years ago, in a notoriously conservative and religious city. I was one of very few foreigners there- most of them were my three colleagues. In my first year, I was friends with the male colleague and we used to hang out together at weekends. Because it was a traditional city, we met very few women, as they were all at home, tending hearth and babies. If we met men, they would only speak to him. If they asked for information, they asked him even if he didn’t know. If I spoke, they replied to him. I was invisible.

    If I went out alone, as I often did, men followed me, declaring their love for me from passing cars and from doorways. On buses, men and women were segregated- and for good reason, I discovered one night on an overcrowded overnight bus from Istanbul— I spent half the night slapping the hand of the young man beside me out from between my thighs, where he kept grabbing me. I woke the next morning sitting next to a little old lady who offered me tea and cookies and who pointed to the back of the bus where the same young man was imprisoned between two other stern, headscarved old women. They knew what I was up against.

    I had to leave after two years even though I loved my job and my friends because I had come to internalize the idea that I was, basically, a whore. I knew it wasn’t right and that I most certainly wasn’t, but I had made so many little cultural faux-pas (going to a male friend’s house, wearing knee-length skirts, going away on my own to Istanbul for long weekends…) that the gossip and street feedback were really starting to bother me.

    I had no idea it was like this in Thailand. Thank you for sharing this.

  • http://www.expatheather.com Heather Carreiro

    Katherine, loved this piece. I really like how you shared your honest struggles and the emotions you’ve gone through while trying to grapple with these cultural differences.

    Living in Pakistan, I often felt like I was ‘not myself’ when I was driving or walking in the street trying to keep a cold stare to ward off unwanted grabbing or propositions. The only way for me to be ‘proper’ in many circumstances was to be cold, and I found it wonderful when I was able to be in situations where I could be friendly and converse with people. Even after living there for three years, I still struggled with this issue, although I came to embrace many of the differences in dress.

  • satine

    As someone who is going to live in a new community for a year this is what i expect. im 18 amd white so am clearly going to stand out in a rural african community. but whilst im worried about losing small parts of myself at the sametime its the reason why im going. im going to experience their culture so i will have to submerge myself in it afterall i chose to go ther and who am i to challenge their beliefs? but thats all very well to say but i know it will be easier said then done!

    • http://amandasfulbright.blogspot.com Amanda

      I know.. sometimes we have to lose our self in order to know who we are. but i think the point of cultural exchange IS to challenge BOTH sides beliefs. you are going to learn/challenge yourself.. but it people are conversing with you, it seems that they too are seeking a cultural exchange, perhaps wanting to challenge THEMselves and learn something different in the same way you are. you should be learning about their culture, but by learning and asking questions, sometimes you will be challenging their beliefs and i think that is a cultural exchange. you’re not forcing, you’re sharing.

    • katherine

      Satine,
      Good luck in Africa!!

  • http://www.geodelic.com Rahul Sonnad

    Sounds like you’re ready to get back to black rock city!

  • Bridget Jackson

    Nice article about the challenges you face in Thailand. It reminds me of the saying,”When in Rome…do as the Romans.” I think you have to show respect for your host country’s traditions whether you like it or not. Not only are you learning patience but humility as well. Keep traveling and having adventures. Eventually, you will wind up back in the good old United States of America where you can do anything practicallyl anything you want. Stay safe and stay alive.

  • http://matadortravel.com/travel-community/anne137 Anne M

    Your piece really resonated with me, Katherine. I taught in a small town in Thailand too, and often felt like I was being watched and studied. I remember getting so frustrated a few times when male teachers would follow me home. When I complained to my boss, she said something along the lines of, “well, you’re single, and you’ve made that public, what do you expect?”

    It sounds like you’re lucky, having male colleagues who are friendly and don’t seem to mind the stigma of taking the young foreign girl out for beer. I’m sure they would have some smart insights into the gender gap in Thai culture.

    Turner pointed out a quote from your piece that stood out for me too, “Part of what has made me feel better about being here in this situation is that I’ve realized I can’t hope to fully integrate and that I don’t necessarily want to.” You’re a lot wiser than I was when I was there! Good luck to you.

    • katherine

      Anne M,

      It’s true. I was single and everyone knew it. Therefore, I became an object of attention and criticism. My roommate who taught at my school, had a boyfriend who taught at our school as well for the second semester, and she received less commentary than I did. Everyone knew they were together. Although, I know that the first semester, when she was there alone, she garnered just as much unwanted attention and criticism as I did this past semester. So, I suppose the answer is to employ a fake boyfriend. ;)

  • http://n/a bob marangelli

    having spent a year in thailand during the vietnam war in the city of korat,I learned that what the thai people consider their customs did in no way apply to americans,male or female. seeing that 90%of their women were hookers supporting their families by working as escorts for the night for a few american dollars,or in so called massage palors servicing the thai men. the food in thailand was outstanding but their customs generally sucked.(no pun intended.

  • donna morang

    Great article! Sorry to hear of your problems in Thailand, and from others around the world. Being a foreigner in any country can have its advantages and disadvantages.
    I have been teaching ESL for ten years and will share my secret to winning over the women in your community. I laugh with them, smile at them, and poke fun at myself to them ( they seem to love that ). I must confess I am an older woman but this never stops the men in most countries from the cat-calls, grasping at my body, the usual crap. I have found that laughing at them is a good way to stop further actions from them. Having a strange sense of humor has given me many laughs. My motto is; have fun and smile no matter what.
    Good luck.

  • LSE_Blade

    Great article…  it sums up the double standards and hypocrisy of small town thai life very, very well… I spent 2  1/2 years teaching in a provincial town in the north, and also saw and experienced a lot of the attitudes that you describe. The first year I was there one girl brought a can of lager in 7-11. The locals knew (at times it seemed like they knew about every step we foreign girls made) and the witchier of the women labelled her an alcoholic, a tag that still stuck to her name a year after she’d left.
    After that she was always seen as a bad teacher, and the Thai teachers liked making the comparison between the good, young , kind South African teacher, versus the bad, alcoholic, strict, and much older English one.  In 2008 when I was attacked by a local man, some people in town suggested I’d deserved it.
    I was a single, western woman, and the perception many Thai women seem to have of us single westerners is that, since we have no bf we are either gagging for it or hellbent on ‘stealing’ theirs. Many Thai women also seem to think that, as females we must share the same aspiration – or should that be desperation, – to get hitched and live the kind of caring, sharing husband centred family life that many of them seem to dream of.At the time that the attack, and the stories that followed it happened, friends in Bangkok told me that I shouldn’t worry about the gossip. The people creating it and passing it on were stupid, uneducated provincial people. The truth is that they were not. They were teachers, government officials, policemen’s wifes, people who were, and still are thought of as being respectable members of their local community. Thai society has many levels, something people who visit as tourist rarely see or have to deal with. Behind the beautiful smiling faces, and super polite ‘ka’s and krup’s” lies a lot of jealously and maliciousness. Unfortunately, a lot of this is directed at western women.I can totally understand you choosing to keep your western male friends. I always found it easier to make male friends too. Being someone who liked current affairs, history and travelling I found many of my female colleagues hard to talk to. They had no interest in anything other than their (or other peoples) weight and appearance and there are only so many times that you can force yourself to look or sound interested in conversations about how much fatter someone has become, or how black another colleague does or doesn’t look (note for anyone who has not lived in Thailand – this comment isn’t meant to be racist….. Thais often make fun of each others skin colour. being black ‘pew dam’ in Thai is something urban Thais look down upon…) During my time there I tried hard to be polite and respectful to everyone I met but the only Thai women I ever managed to make friends with were those who, like me were considered outsiders and looked down upon, (or envied and gossiped about) by the dominant local group.

  • Johnxkane

    What an amazing story this is especially in contrast to other harsh appraisals of older foreign men who are with younger Thai women.  I live in Bangkok and women there are hot.  They dress hot.  College girls wear the shortest tight skirts imaginable – and that is their school uniform – with maybe 70% of their legs above the knees looking goood for me to see!  A Japanese magazine ranked Thai college students as having the sexiest uniforms.   If a foreign woman smiling or waving at a Thai man is considered to be an expression in interest in sex, what am I supposed to think?  I am a somewhat chubby, short American man in his early 60s and beautiful young women smile at me all the time. The only way I know it might have a sexual interest is the neighborhood I am in and even then I can’t be sure.  I have been in a certain famous neighborhood and stopped women who smile at me and been in bed with them in less than 20 minutes.  Yes that is pretty good for  my ego!  In my own neighborhood, certainly one with no sex industry, I have had women smile at me and in 20 minutes I been offered their name and phone number, and had talk that was getting intimate.  It was clear these women could be my girlfriend.  I am curious if Bangkok is so different than other parts of Thailand.  Most of the “professional” women I have met come from outlying areas.  Here Katherine tells us a very conservative experience she experienced herself.  Other blogs attack the sexuality of Thailand.  Women who smile at me ARE interested in sex or at least in meeting me even though I am old and gray!  These two kinds of stories are sooo in conflict.  It certainly expresses the complexity of this subject.  But I have to run now my 22-years-younger-than-me Thai girlfriend is almost done cooking my lunch.  After lunch I think I will walk around my neighborhood smiling at every woman I see over 18 and under 50 and see what happens.  Maybe I will report to you another time.  ENJOY LIFE!  

  • Jack

    I too live in Thailand, but Bangkok, not a small village.  You are describing life among teachers and in a small town.  I taught for a semester at a Thai public school and was glad to get out of there partly because of all the public corporal punishment I witnessed even though it was against both the law and school policy.  And with an average of 45 in a class I was wasting my time.  There was no feeling of accomplishment from it.  But I agree there was some inherent stuffiness, and traditional demure behavior there and I assume there is a lot more in smaller places.  Teachers didn’t know what to do with me because I was older then they were and so they had to be more respectful than they where to other native speakers younger then they were.  It all kinda played out weirdly.  I also suspected that some of the older female teachers would have liked to know me better in ways that would have been improper.  And, since I lived close to the school, I was surprised to see 14, 15, and 16 yo female students hanging out around the neighborhood with much older men.  Your entire experience is simply incongruous  with life in Bangkok.  Girls dress super sexy in BK – but not teachers, I grant you.  People smile at me and we do have sex sometimes after meeting due to a smile.  That has happened three times.  Its amazing and it is why foreign men find Thailand  appealing.  Men in Thailand are rarely pedophiles and they don’t have to be with prostitutes.  Thai women like foreign men.  They seem to like them at all ages and they like some tummy too.  Strange, but true!  Katherine if men in your village thought you might have sex with them just because you smile, then they are both right and also will not bother you when you say “NO!”  No seems to work here too. 

    Let me share a recent experience.  I am in my early 60s.  I am 167 cm and weight about 80 kgs.  I cut my hair very short because there are so many thin spots up there.  A few days ago I got off the SkyTrain and saw a beautiful, but young, girl.  It was late afternoon and she had no school uniform on which meant she was older than high school age since every school kid wears a uniform.  She was so cute I followed her toward an exit that was a little further for me.  I walked behind her and admired her attire and her, well,  her ass.  This girl looked sooo normal and nice I was just impressed.   I glanced at her very cute face as I went by.  She had smart eyes!  But went ahead of her and kept walking.  I basically forgot about her and had reached a quiet walkway over the sidewalk near a theater.  I was looking at a big display of movie poster when I almost fainted.  The same beautiful girl stepped up next to me and asked if I was going to a movie.  We talked about “War Horse” by Speilberg.  Woooow!  She literally hit on me.  I know I could have suggested that if she wanted to see the movie I would be glad to pay.  If the timing was right we could eat first or afterward – and who knows where that could have gone.  We were well on our way to a new friendship, if not to bed.  I was NOT in an area where there is any prostitution.   I did not take advantage of her initial approach because I had other places to go, but this is not unusual.  It simply isn’t strange at all in Thailand.   If you consider this you will have new insight into why foreign men are with young women and why it seems odd that a foreign women has such a different experience.  It’s the school experience and the experience in a smaller town that Katherine described.  If it is a man reading this when was the last time a woman of any age initiated a conversation with you in this way?  If you are a woman reader I ask the same.   It seems like we are all afraid of each other in America.  But Asia, and the whole world for that matter, is different.  It is quite amazing. 

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