A construction helmet and other objects, repurposed as flower baskets. All photos by author.

Havana is a filthy city.

Each morning, when I step out the door and onto Infanta, there’s the triple assault on the senses: dog shit from dachsunds and mixed breeds; diesel fumes belched out in plumes from the tailpipes of Ladas and camellos, and piles of garbage sitting on street corners, baking in the sun as they wait to be picked up and carted off.

Within minutes, I feel dirty.

By day 7, I’m wondering what the long-term health hazards of living here might be.

For all of its grit, though, Havana offers the “developed” world some useful lessons in green living:

1. We don’t need to-go cups.

The guy who sells guarapo–the fresh-pressed juice from sugar cane–on Infanta doesn’t use to-go cups. You belly up to the bar, such as it is, plunk down your change, and take a long draught straight from a glass. When you’re done, you hand the glass back, it gets dipped in some water, and the guy behind you gets ready for his swig.

Whatever you’re drinking–guarapo, or coffee, or Tu Kola–you don’t need so much of it that it requires a special, disposable cup. And you definitely don’t need to be in such a hurry that you can’t stand around or sit down for a few minutes to finish whatever you’ve ordered.

2. Minimalist packaging works just fine.

My mother, in Cuba for the first time, leans over the deep freezer at Carlos III’s meat shop to inspect the chicken, some of which is packaged, some of which isn’t. No matter– the price stickers are pasted onto the non-packaged chicken, just as they are to the thighs, legs, and breasts bundled and twisted into clear plastic baggies.

In the US, frozen chicken free of packaging would likely be scooped out of the freezer and disposed of, the management citing health concerns. None of our fellow shoppers, however, seemed to be worried about the minimalist packaging.

3. Almost everything can be repurposed.

During my first Cuba trip, I watched my mother-in-law wash and reuse disposable grocery bags until the “nylons,” as she calls them, were worn out. I returned home with an obsession: everything could be repurposed. A rubber band, a plastic shopping bag, the newspaper: nothing should be wasted.

Though I’ve controlled the obsession (partly by becoming conscious of what I consume in the first place), each subsequent trip to Havana has made me realize just how much we could upcycle if we really wanted to try our hand at repurposing objects that have outlived their original use.

4. We don’t need nearly as many artificial lights as we think.

Part money-saving strategy, part resource-consciousness, Cuba’s capital is hypervigilant about energy use. Businesses that don’t need to turn on all their lights… don’t. Banks, restaurants, hotel lobbies, bookstores… no matter where you go in Havana, you’re not likely to witness any excessive use of artificial light. And really, I didn’t miss it.

5. Our bodies are an incredibly efficient source of energy.

Like the other lessons, this one’s painfully obvious–except for the fact that it isn’t in societies where folks are overly attached to cars and gadgets that promise to make their lives more convenient.

Pedal power.

But check out the guy on the right. He’s repairing some nail clippers by pedaling a bike to which he’s attached a sharpener. What would happen if more people used the power of their bodies to do the work they need to do?

Many aspects of Havana’s “green” lifestyle were/are precipitated by sheer economic necessity- and by no means is my intention to romanticize poverty. Nor do I contend that the Cuban government consciously proposes or enforces any of these strategies as part of an ultra-environmental social consciousness, a la Curitiba, Brazil.

But economy and politics aside, seven days in Havana remind me of how easy it is to go green at the individual and societal levels. It’s worth a try.

Community Connection:

Which of these strategies could you try? Any others you’ve seen in your travels that would be simple to implement? Share in the comments.

 
 

About The Author

Julie Schwietert

Julie Schwietert Collazo is a writer, editor, researcher, and translator currently in New York, formerly of Mexico City and San Juan. She is Matador's managing editor and is the lead faculty member of MatadorU's travel writing program.

  • http://simonegorrindo.wordpress.com/ Simone Gorrindo

    That bike-sharpener is amazing. I love inventive resourcefulness like that in cities. When I lived in Brooklyn, someone had left the long back seat of a van out on the sidewalk. A kid who lived in my building got out his very old boombox, opened a little door at the bottom of a telephone pole — I had never even noticed it — and worked some magic so that he got the electricity he needed for the stereo out of the pole. Then he sat for the rest of the afternoon under the shade of a tree, just chilling. It was awesome.

  • Allen

    I love this article. I was just thinking about life in Cuba and if this was part of Fidel’s plan. I agree with the author in that I don’t think it was. Something inside of me craves this life style but with a house, married, and a kid its going to take some time before I can pack them up and try the simple life.

  • http://www.kaleidoscopicwandering.com JoAnna

    Great tips Julie! It’s so easy to become wasteful. Sometimes we need a wake-up call in an entirely new environment to remind ourselves to be minimal in our waste.

    How strange about the chicken legs. If they’re frozen, I guess I this really wouldn’t be that big of a deal after all.

  • http://www.writtenaway.com Gabriela Garcia

    Great post, Julie! It made me think of all the recent Cuban immigrants I know that carry the same practices over to the United States out of habit. My great aunt, for example, still washes and re-uses zip lock bags. It’s such an easy thing to implement, and yet I have to admit it never occurred to me until I saw her do it. Necessity can make people creative, but on the flipside, abundance can make us comfortably wasteful.

  • http://www.writtenaway.com Gabriela Garcia

    Also, speaking of Habana and bikes, have you been to Habana Outpost in Brooklyn? They have the awesomest bike-powered smoothie machine.

  • http://miller-david.com david miller

    i enjoyed this julie. less layers, more life at ground level.

  • http://chompandcircumstance.wordpress.com Libby

    Hey, I really enjoyed this post. I share a lot of the same sentiments living here in Quito. Although buses belch black clouds in my face whenever I walk around, I do enjoy not living in the fast-paced, to-go style culture.

  • http://www.deliciouschaos.com Nick

    Wonderful post, Julie – thanks!

    I think Gabriela hit the nail on the head here: “Necessity can make people creative, but on the flipside, abundance can make us comfortably wasteful.”

    We see a similar thing here in Egypt. The most obvious example is the Zabaleen, who collect, sort, upcycle and recycle (mainly by hand) the majority of Cairo’s trash. Almost nothing is “thrown away”. Sure, it’s how they make their living, and it’s born of poverty, but it also involves a very different world view – and one which many of us could learn a lot from.

  • http://girlunstoppable.com Ekua

    Great article. It feels like a lot of the green “solutions” I hear about just end up shuffling waste from one area to another. So it’s nice to take a look at countries that are focused on simply using less, whether it’s out of necessity or not!

  • http://www.sophiesworld.net Sophie

    In many ways, Cuba is a very green country, partly through necessity, perhaps – but also through politics (decreasing use of pesticides, reversing deforestation, only organic products on farms, reusing farm lands, etc). On the latest Yale Uni EPI ranking, Cuba is the 9th greenest country in the world (in the Americas, only Costa Rica does better).

    http://epi.yale.edu/Countries

    • David

      The only. Reason cuba is in the state it is in is because socialist planners have destroyed so much wealth they have to result to living with less. Its not that they don’t want to consume more stuff its that fiddle has turned that island into a he’ll whole. People are starving in Cuba, watch how they vote with there feet no one swims from floradia to Cuba and risk there lives to get to Cuba. I know you guys aren’t saying cub a is the ideal b ut we can learn from the people and there is some truth to that, but don’t make it out to be a green paradise because it dimities he horrors that is committed on that island.

      • admin

        David-

        If you try to read the piece without imposing politics on top of it, you’ll understand that I’m not arguing Cuba’s a green paradise. In fact, I specifically state that my intention isn’t to romanticize poverty.

        One of the problems with anything related to Cuba is the way in which so many people turn an issue into a platform to push their political opinions about Castro, socialism, etc. upon others.

  • http://www.nehasweb.com neha

    I love that first photo.

  • http://www.bottomofthesoul.com Oliver

    Dig this post! My mom was born in the Soviet Union and definitely cherishes her used plastic bags… I think my favorite is the minimal artificial lighting – in the U.S. you normally have to put on sunglasses when walking INTO a building…disgusting. The low lighting also adds a much-appreciated dramatic essence to any room!

    Did you encounter any urban farming operations? I’ve heard there’s quite the movement in la Habana.

    • Julie Schwietert

      Oliver- Thanks! No, I didn’t encounter any urban farming projects, but I’m aware of many in Havana- and lots of other cool eco projects too- solar and wind stuff, among them.

  • http://mybeautifuladventures.com Andi

    Such an informative piece! I definitely noticed how resourceful Cubans are when I traveled there.

  • Louise

    The “west” can learn a thing or two from Cuba.

  • Robert Hirschfield

    Bharat Mansata of Earthcare Books in Calcutta wrote a book about organic
    farming in Cuba that includes his thoughts on organic farming in Havana. The book is
    called Organic Revolution, and is published by Earthcare Books.

    • admin

      I’ll have to check that out; thanks, Robert!

  • Luis Gonzalez

    im going to havana on dec. 26th on a tight student budget. taking a vow of poverty while I´m there wouldn´t be so bad, given the odds.

     Any tips on where to stay?(I was told about a casa particular, how do I get in touch with one?)

    is there a bike rental service there?

    thanks

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