A stunning, hour and a half train ride through the English countryside take you to Salisbury, home of the famous Stonehenge.
It’s an easy day trip but I found that Salisbury has a lot more to
offer and, in fact, Stonehenge is the least impressive part of the town.
Salisbury has been an important site throughout human history. Over
5,000 years ago, Neolithic man was dragging huge stones, weighing up to
55 tons from Wales to Salisbury to build Stonehenge. The area is
surrounded by ancient buried mounds and historical artifacts.
While Stonehenge is impressive and still one of the most important
historical sites in human history, Salisbury itself is more impressive.
Beautifully preserved, this picturesque English country town offers a
lot to do and will leave a far more lasting impression on me than
Stonehenge.
Originally, “Old Sarum” (as the old town was called) was constructed
and used by the Romans and early Saxons as a fortification. With the
signing of the Magna Carta in 1215, the fort and cathedral were moved
to the present day location. The new city never had any defensive walls
as it is surrounded by rivers on three sides and located on a hill.
The city has been immaculately preserved. During the German Blitz,
Salisbury wasn’t bombed as the Germans used the church as a marker and
were under strict orders not to damage it. Around the city one can see
Elizabethan, Jacobin, and Victorian style homes all squished together
down tiny streets. The town market square is very well preserved and
outdoor cafes line the area. (Of course, there is also a church there
too.) Modernity has crept in but not at the cost of this scenery. There
is a McDonalds and a Burger King but you wouldn’t notice them unless
you feel upon them. They don’t stick out like eyesores and are blend
quite nicely with the surroundings. Thank God for strict zoning laws
huh?
The highlight of this whole trip for me was Salisbury Cathedral. The
cathedral was built in 1238 and it still stands, albeit with some
adjustments, 750 years later. This huge gothic cathedral is surrounded
by grass and cloistered in a little community with a few smaller
churches, homes, and other buildings. For all the churches I’ve seen in
Europe, this ranks number one.
Inside (no photos allowed), this church is laid out in the
traditional cross format with an entrance at one end and the prayer
area at the other. Huge ceilings and large stained glass windows adorn
the sides and the choir and seating area line the middle. What made
this church really special were the tombs inside. The walls are lined
with the tombs of dead bishops, kings, and queens. They are beautifully
ordained in figures and symbols from the person’s life. In the Trinity,
there is a tomb that dates back to 1099. Walking past the tombs of so
many historical figures, including some that signed the Magna Carta was
breathtaking, especially to a history geek such as myself. The church
also houses one of the 4 original copies of the Magna Carta left in
existence. Seeing it and the church are both free.
Salisbury can make a great day trip from London but to truly
appreciate all the area has to offer it is better to spend a night or
two. Walk around this historical town, visit Stonehenge and, it’s
little cousin Avesbury, the cathedral, and journey into the country.
There is a lot to do here and a great respite from the chaos of London.
