Blood and Curry at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival
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There was a moment, crouched on wet pavement in the temple courtyard, choking on firecracker smoke, the crowd ullulating and a tattooed man with crazy eyes swinging a bloody battle-axe over my head, when I decided to make a run for it.
I wasn’t far from the temple gate, and though the crowd was packed in tight, a quick move between two white-robed old ladies and a dash through a group of children and I would be out in the street, away from the crazy men with axes, swords and knives.
But no. More firecrackers burst and temple guards shouted at everyone to get back, get down. The tranced-out men pulled ropes tight around their necks and started drooling in ecstasy, eyes rolling back in their heads, limbs shaking.
Frenzied, drums beating, they began swinging the axes over their heads, opening raw cuts in their backs, spinning in circles, holding the axe blade to their lips and shaking their heads, sending streams of blood cascading down their chins.
I didn’t know quite what to expect at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival. Phuket is one of the most touristy islands in Thailand, and a vegetarian festival doesn’t sound particularly hardcore. But these were real axes. These men were seriously tranced out. Real blood was dripping onto the pavement. Most surprisingly, there were hardly any tourists at all.
Thing is, it seems all the Phuket hotels are on the beaches, on the west shore of the island. Phuket town is inland, close to the southeastern shore. It’s not a tourist town. If the measure of a religious festival is how seriously the locals take the rituals, well shit; this is the real deal.
So, after the blood and firecrackers and drums and smoke, Ryan and I walked back to our guesthouse in the rain, passing stand after stand of restaurant with tins of delicious vegetarian Thai food. Walk right up, take a plate of rice and point to what you like – curries and mock meat dishes and stir-fired veggies and mixed mushrooms and mango sticky rice. One plate costs a little over a dollar.
I’ll be here for about another week, covering the festival for Get Lost, an Australian adventure travel mag. If any Matador members want to meet up, shoot me a message. After Phuket I’ll be in Bangkok, and then head north to Chiang Mai.
Photos by Ryan Libre, www.idioimagers.org
Jacob Bielanski said on September 30, 2008
Very nice Tim. Seems to prove that people go crazy if they don’t get enough meat.
Tom Gates said on September 29, 2008
so. jealous.
Julie Schwietert Collazo said on September 29, 2008
I haven’t been to the veg fest, but I found some great photos on Flickr from the veg fest and man… I think I’ll stay away!
http://matadorpulse.com/worlds-craziest-festival/
Tim Patterson said on September 29, 2008
no spears through the mouth yet – maybe later today.
Turner Wright said on September 29, 2008
I’m curious about that myself; you see any of them with the spears through their mouths?
I know Phuket isn’t exactly Patong Beach, but still… it’s pretty touristy.
Tim Patterson said on September 29, 2008
good question, Hal – one I need to figure out. I think it’s all about self-deprivation, extinguishing desire…but jeepers those dudes have crazy eyes!
David Miller said on September 29, 2008
sounds like good times man. anything involving a battle axe should be, as long as you’re not on the receiving end of it. some real crisp writing here. you and Ryan be sure to stoke it out with the Get Lost assignment. i’m sure you wil.
Hal Amen said on September 28, 2008
Great description–both in the writing and the photos!
So how did self-flagellation become associated with non-violent food?