A Former Parisian’s Guide to the City

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The City of Lights is a place most people can only dream of visiting. I was lucky enough to spend four months living there in early 2005, right in the heart of the Latin Quarter, or the cinquieme arrondissement. In order to help future travelers see the city from the perspective of a local, rather than just another clueless tourist, I’ve compiled a list of suggestions on how to enjoy Paris to the fullest.

Language
Dig out any bits of the French vocabulary you’ve got or once had and invest in a French phrasebook. The Parisians will love you for every effort you make at attempting to speak their language, however futile. Once they’ve heard you struggle enough, they’ll (hopefully) speak English with you.
Essential phrases: Bonjour, madame/monsieur. Use that when you enter a shop. It’s rude not to.
Merci, au revoir. Say this as you leave.

Dealing with the Parisians
Don’t let rude Parisians get to you. It’s somewhat fashionable for them to be a bit snobbish so they won’t hesitate to make you feel inferior. Shopkeers know that the city gets more visitors than any other location on earth. Even if you never patronize their establishment again, someone else will. If you show that you didn’t care that they were rude to you, or hit them back with the same attitude, you will have passed their test and everything will be cool between you from then on.

Accommodations
My pick: the MIJE youth hostels in the Marais, Paris’ Jewish Quarter http://www.mije.com/index_individuels_uk.html
It can’t get any more central than that. You’ll be within walking distance or a short metro ride from Paris’ sites and most happening areas. Best of all, you’ll be staying in beautiful and authentic medieval buildings that have been remodeled to house hotels for a reasonable price. They’re actually a bit pricier than most hostels, but considering where you’re staying and the quality of the accommodations, it’s worth every centime.
If you’re strapped for cash, head for the Shakespeare & Co. bookstore to join starving writers and other international wanderers. You’ll be required to work a shift at the store in exchange for a free night’s stay. For more background info on the bookstore and the Shakespeare & Co experience, pick up a copy of Jeremy Mercer’s Time Was Soft There.

Food
There are plenty of inexpensive options. Keep in mind that it’s cheaper to get your food to go than to eat in.
Grab a crepe or panini from a stand along Blvd. St. Michel in the Latin Quarter or in the Montparnasse district.
Falafel or shewarma from a shop in the Marais along rue de Rosiers. The local favorite (as well as mine) is L’as du Falafel.
Creperies in the Latin Quarter and St. Germain are a good option for a nice sit-down meal.
Franprix and Monoprix, the local chain grocery stores (Monoprix is a department store but not all of them sell food) can provide some nice options for an inexpensive lunch or dinner even if you don’t have access to a kitchen.
Bakeries, including my personal favorite, Maison Kayser, offer not just pastries but also sandwiches and quiches.
Le Pain Quotidien on rue Mouffetard is a good place for a starchy meal.
Middle Eastern and Asian eateries probably get you the most bang for your euros. The Cafe at the Paris Mosque is the best and most beautiful place to savor Moroccan couscous.
LaDuree is a good place to get exquisite pastries and nice sit-down meals, but it’s pricey. Getting a pastry to go and sharing it with someone is a pretty good deal.
And for some thick, gooey chocolate, head for Christian Constant.

Shopping
You probably can’t afford to shop in Paris’ grands magasins, namely Galeries Lafayettes and Printemps, but go ahead and browse them anyway. Printemps always has creative window displays, like the ones at Macy’s in New York. If you’re in town in January-February or June-July, though, you might snag some great steals during the soldes (sales). Samaritaine and BHV might be a little closer to your price range.
Boutiques and shops are scattered throughout the city. Major shopping streets include rue de Rennes, rue de Rivoli and rue du Faubourg-St-Honore.
Noteworthy stores include Etam, France’s version of Victoria’s Secret and fnac, a department store chain with the best selection of music, movies, books (in French, English and other languages) and electronics this side of Virgin Megastore.

Places to Frequent
Most of my time in Paris was spent in the Latin Quarter. I loved wandering its little streets and stepping into its shops and bakeries.
The Jardin du Luxembourg remains one of my favorite places in Paris. On a spring day, you could spend hours there just sitting there with your friends, admiring the flowers and statues and to do some people watching.
A stroll along rue Mouffetard is nice. It’s one of the few stereotypically French streets left in the city. There are plenty of shops, markets and restaurants, as well as a couple of good ice cream places
My favorite museums are the Musee d’Orsay, Musee Rodin and the Musee Marmatton, featuring Monet’s waterlily paintings. The exterior of the Centre Pompidou is an interesting sight. All national museums are free the first Sunday of the month, while the Louvre is also free for those under 26 every Friday after 6 pm.
The Opera Garnier usually stages traditional performances while the Opera Bastille stages modern productions. Rush tickets are available an hour or so before the performance.
I rarely went to the Champs Elysees (only to go to an international newsstand to get my fix of trashy English-language magazines) and Montmartre, as they’re fairly touristy. Go there to see the main sites but stay away from there as much as possible. The same goes with the Eiffel Tower and the Notre Dame. Too often visitors stick to the touristy areas and leave with a bad impression of this wonderful city. If you know which areas to stay in, you’ll love it.

Day Trips
Versailles – obvious choice.
Fontainebleau – another palace that’s quite nice. I’ve heard the same about Chantilly, although I’ve never been there.
Giverny – obvious stop for art lovers.
Chartres – if you’ve got time, head out there to see the Cathedral.
Reims – great for champagne lovers.

Nightlife
Sadly, I didn’t get a good taste of this because I had to adhere to a strict curfew. But the most happening clubs and bars in Paris are in the Bastille area, as well as some in the Latin Quarter and Montparnasse.

Other Annoyances/Warnings
Watch out for those pigeons! Parisian pigeons are the worst. Several people I knew in Paris (including yours truly) were violated by them at some point or another. So if you feel something land on your head, it’s probably not sap or an acorn.
You’ll probably find that metro/RER stations sometimes double as homeless shelters. A bum might come right up to you asking for money, and you may also encounter some human waste in the station as well.