Weekend in Hanoi

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With romanticized visions of Hanoi, we set off on a seemingly relaxing weekend away from the chaotic streets of Bangkok. Not knowing what to expect, our thoughts dabbled around notions of taking leisurely cyclo rides, boating on a lotus-filled lake, and sipping Vietnamese coffee in quiet cafes. We were tired from lack of sleep and long airport queues and only started reading the guidebook on the flight. Needless to say, we were not prepared for the city, especially the torrent of activity that defines daily life in Hanoi.

After clearing customs at Noi Bai Airport, we found that our ride failed to show, despite the driver’s assertion that he was waiting for us with sign in tow. Slightly more awake, we headed out the airport to source alternative transportation to the city. It was easy to find a taxi and the moment the car started moving, the most striking aspect of modern, urban Vietnam became apparent: the mighty horn.

Our driver honked at every motorbike, bicycle, pedestrian, chicken, you-name-it on the road. If endowed with honking abilities, they honked back, perpetuating the exercise. The driver also swerved over the double line into oncoming traffic, tailed cargo-laden trucks, and blasted Vietnamese pop while talking on his cell phone. Happily, we made it to the Old Quarter in one piece, even though the driver tried to extort extra fare upon reaching the hotel.

We stayed at the Classic Street Hotel on Pho Hang Be (“rafts”) in the Old Quarter. This part of the city resembles Bangkok Chinatown, with bustling activity that includes extensive motorcycle and foot traffic, merchandise spilling out of storefronts, fruit hawkers, and sidewalk pho stalls. And in the background, the ubiquitous beeping, forever the beeping. Crossing the street was not dissimilar from playing the game Frogger, gambling on one’s ability to dodge hostile objects.

Streets of the Old Quarter are named after some kind of product or skill (e.g., “silversmith,” “baskets,” “hats”). It is still laid out that way, with clusters of stores providing identical products or services, but now encompasses trades such as grave markers, appliances, scissors and hardware, counterfeit Puma and Converse sneakers, and other brand-name clothing.

Vietnam seems on the fast track for commercial pursuits and economic development. People are industrious, rising at the crack of dawn to engage in productive activities. Near the Classic Street Hotel, vigorous chopping and jack hammering are popular choices, amidst the beeping, of course. Also, it is clear that recreating and fitness are taken very seriously. Around Hoam Kiem Lake, elderly folks congregate to play checkers or speed walk. Other people play badminton, kick footballs or chat with friends.

Despite our short visit, we glimpsed some of Hanoi’s hidden charm in the architecture and people. Behind the hustle and bustle of street life, the romanticized version does exist. After an eventful two days and an uneventful (i.e., safe) ride back to the airport, we returned home. Amazingly, Bangkok seems much more organized than when we left.