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For much of the 20th century, tourism was a tightly controlled operation, run by Poland’s then-communist government.

Nowadays, visitors can explore the country however they wish, from the Baltic Sea beaches in Gdansk to medieval Malbork castle. Take in Poland’s history in Warsaw’s old town, stern Soviet buildings, and the famous concentration camp sites. Camp on the Tatra mountains or hike Białowieża Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Have potato pierogis for dinner and berry ones for dessert.

We take you into a Polish home for the holidays, give the low-down on medical tourism, and share the best bits of Warsaw that guidebooks have left out.

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