Walter Mooney, U.S. Geological Survey

How quickly do we forget the feeling of instability? When do we learn to trust the earth again? Acclaimed Chilean novelist Sergio Missana considers the short- and long-term effects of the latest earthquake in his country.

ONE COULD ARGUE that there is no experience more kinetic, more purely experienced with the body, than the earth suddenly becoming unsteady. I have a vivid recollection of the 1985 Santiago earthquake. Yet my memories – after 25 years – are almost entirely visual.

I remember being able to see the oscillation of the ground I was standing on, water coming out of a swimming pool in waves and tall poplar trees swaying violently and bending in the windless evening.

Soon enough, all eyes will focus on the Chilean soccer team that will play in the World Cup in South Africa.

This past February 27th the quake hit in the middle of the night. The power went out. It was like reliving that old experience in absolute blindness.

I live in a canyon in the mountains overlooking Santiago, in an area called El Arrayán. Power did not return for five days. The whole communications system – land phones, cell phones, Internet – collapsed, so I spent the hours after the quake trying to contact my wife and kids – who were in California – and also my family in Chile, friends and colleagues, and listening to the radio in my car.

But I did not have a sense of the devastation in the South of Chile until I actually saw it on TV a couple of days after the quake. Once power returned at home, I kept watching.

Natural disasters tend to become human catastrophes, hitting the poor the hardest, and this was no exception. The earthquake and tsunami had shaken a sense of security, exposing the gross inequalities that underlie Chile’s macroeconomic success story. It became apparent that, in Santiago and other cities, several construction companies had creatively interpreted regulation codes in order to save a buck.

The official response provided a catalogue of ineptitude: the Chilean Navy did not issue a tsunami alert; the government hesitated before declaring a State of Emergency in Concepción and the port of Talcahuano, as looting escalated; rescue teams were not dispatched on time to areas where people were trapped under rubble; etc.

As I watched image after image of apocalyptic desolation, I became progressively horrified by the coverage itself, by the relentless drive of the media to raise the emotional pitch at whatever cost. The emotional manipulation and amplification ends up becoming its own corrective: it produces saturation, habituation and, ultimately, a measure of detachment.

A month after the earthquake and tsunami, things are getting back to normal. Chileans are focusing on other things, including the political transition: to the new conservative administration that has given the military a key role in keeping public safety, stirring old anxieties. And soon enough, all eyes will focus on the Chilean soccer team that will play in the World Cup in South Africa.

And yet, anxiety lingers. The demand for real estate — houses and apartments close to the ground — has multiplied exponentially. In the Maule Region, the hardest hit by the earthquake and tsunami, it is estimated that 20 percent of the population will have permanent psychological scars. In many coastal towns, people are still camping in the hills, their lives paralyzed by fear of the ocean.

After the initial shock and disbelief, there remains a vague but pervasive uncertainty, a mistrust in the stability of the earth, and a sense that the transitory works of reconstruction will become, as they always do, permanent. And that uneasiness, too, will pass.

By the time the Chilean footballers make it to South Africa, people in camps in the most devastated area will be enduring a very tough winter. While there has been a steady stream of donations since the earthquake, locals are still waiting for emergency housing and in need of basic supplies.

I’ll have some time off from teaching then and I plan to travel south to help out however I can and see things with my own eyes.

Community Connection

Have you experienced an earthquake? Please share with us in the comments below how it affected you.

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About The Author

Sergio Missana

Sergio Missana has published four novels in Spanish – all on travel –, an essay about Jorge Luis Borges and a children’s book about a shy elephant. He grew up in Chile, and has lived in San Francisco and Madrid. He has traveled throughout Asia, North and South America, Europe and Africa. He teaches literature at the Stanford University Program in Santiago.

  • http://cuadernoinedito.wordpress.com Julie

    Sergio-

    Gracias por compartir esto con nosotros.

  • http://www.bearshapedsphere.blogspot.com eileen

    Thanks for this piece, Sergio. There was the event (which I “missed,”) and then the events surrounding the event. In one case the earth’s fragile crust and what lays under it is responsible. I find it hard to blame the earth. In the other case, humans and our sick desire to make a buck and make decisions (like disseminating incomplete information) that cause damage. It’s harder not to cast blame there.

    And deep in Barrio Brasil, where I live, just an hour or so bike ride from your house, our fingers trace the cracks in walls, and brooms sweep up what we hope is the last of the glass, and we think about how lucky, how very lucky we are.

  • http://www.Travel-Writers-Exchange.com Travel-Writers-Exchange.com

    Haven’t experienced an earthquake. It would be an interesting experience, being in a foreign country or even in your own backyard and feeling the Earth shake and roll beneath you. The power of Mother Nature is awesome. She does what she has to do to “wake up” the humans living on the planet. Either take care of the Earth or face the consequences.

  • http://www.sierrasurvey.com David Page

    Nice piece, Sergio. Thanks for sharing.

    I happened to be in LA the day of the Northridge quake in 1994. It happened before dawn. It was one that started violently — “like a truck had hit the house” was a common description — and then, as I recall, it just rolled, like the ocean, for nearly a full minute.

    I remember my camera was on the bedside table next to where I’d been sleeping. It was thrown across the room. I remember everything in the pantry smashed to the floor. There were bits of broken glass and china mixed in with the honey and ketchup and maple syrup all across the kitchen floor.

    The power went out across the city. I’d never seen stars like that in LA. And then the sunrise. I was supposed to fly up to San Francisco later that morning, but the airport was shut down for most of the following day, I think. I remember walking around for hours, just surveying the damage, chatting with neighbors and complete strangers in a way that never happens in the ordinary buzz and bustle of that city full of isolated individuals. Anything made of brick — every chimney, every garden wall — was reduced to a pile of rubble. The aftershocks went on for days.

    On the one hand it’s extraordinary how quickly we forget. How quickly we move on. How quickly we move to rebuild.

    On the other hand, I’ve never quite been able to shake the glimpse I got into the absolute futility of human endeavor. How rich is our capacity for denial that we continue to erect such grand structures — at such great expense in time and money — knowing full well that they will soon enough be brought back to the ground.

    To this day I see jelly jars or wine glasses on a kitchen shelf and I think: Have these people forgotten? Don’t they know what a mess it will make? I see a painting framed in glass over someone’s bed and I think: these people will be killed.

    Every night when I climb into bed I find myself taking note of where my shoes are, lest I have to cross the room in the dark over sprayed shards of windowglass. It is not so much real anxiety anymore as it is just a habit, like closing the garage door so the bears don’t get into the trash. And then I sleep. And when I wake the notion of earthquake is as distant as death itself. It does not exist.

    But later, when traffic stops in such a way that my car is the one paused beneath the overpass, I think: okay, that whole thing is coming down; I am squashed. Then traffic moves on again and I am off — off to build all manner of complex and delicate structures on unreliable soil.

    dp

  • Carolina

    I was there.
    In a place just between Concepción y Talcahuano, at 3.45 am, elegantly dressed, dancing with my husband, in the middle of his best friend’s wedding.

    Suddenly, what we though was the excitement of the moment, turned in an
    unbelievable and surreal experience. A deaf sound seemed to emerge from the center of the earth and everything moved, the screaming filled all over the place. The lights of the ceiling went down, crushed like apples from the trees. Every table rolled on the ground, and the bottles and the decor seemed to have spread without mercy.
    Many windows exploded, and the ground was like a huge wave, moving so violently that you could not even walk.

    Minutes after, when we tried desperately to tell our family we was ok, we realized it wasn’t no communication.

    It was a nightmare. And not because of the mess, but because our son was at the other side of the river (with his grandparents).
    And two of the three bridges, had fallen.

    After a restless night, we got transport to get to the only bridge that was almost standing.
    We crossed two kilometers by foot just hoping everything was ok. And when I saw my child, l felt a strange mix of guilt and happiness.

    We stayed there for those days, with no choice, because we was trapped. With no transport available, and forced to see more shaking, the robberies, the “civilian army”, and the frighten of a new tsunami, which was announced just across the street.
    It was a terrible week, full with a bunch of shocking experiences, that we could barely stand it.
    But after that week, I discovered something priceless:
    I have a lesson about human beings. About how strong we can be, and about what is important, and what is not.
    And that lesson will last forever.

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