The Old Curry Orchard, Yosemite N.P. Author photo.

America’s national parks have never been so crowded, so trampled, and at the same time so deeply underfunded. Can’t we just leave them alone?

You’ve probably never heard of the National Parks Promotion Council. I hadn’t either, until the other day, just a few weeks before National Parks Week, when I received a press release, ostensibly from Washington D.C. (but sent from the email address of a California-based independent P.R. professional, the “Interim Executive Director”), proclaiming the formation of a “new organization to promote America’s National Parks.”

The necessity of such a thing at this particular moment in history may be worth questioning. The fact is, whether it’s the recession, fluctuations in the value of the U.S. dollar, or what Yosemite videographer Steven Bumgardner calls “the Ken Burns effect,” or who knows what combination of factors, the parks are bracing themselves for the busiest summer in the history of the system, with upwards of 300 million customers expected by the end of 2010.

“There may be some who believe that any and all forms of construction and development are intrinsic goods, in the national parks as well as anywhere else, who virtually identify quantity with quality and therefore assume that the greater the quantity of traffic, the higher the value received. There are some who frankly and boldly advocate the eradication of the last remnants of wilderness and the complete subjugation of nature to the requirements of — not man — but industry. This is a courageous view, admirable in its simplicity and power, and with the weight of all modern history behind it. It is also quite insane.”

— Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire, 1968

More than 33 million viewers have watched at least one episode of “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea” (have you?). Who knows how many hundreds of millions more have seen the advertising in magazines, on TV, at gas stations and ATM machines nationwide.

In 2009, Yosemite alone bore the weight of nearly 3.9 million pairs of mostly sensible shoes, with a quarter of a million cars entering the park just in the month of July. This year, for the first time in more than a decade, the number of visitors may clear 4 million.

The short of it: business is booming for the handful of concessionaires who hold the contracts to rent beds and showers in the parks, and to sell burgers and pizza and cuddly, overpriced stuffed bears to the hoards.

And Ed Abbey, meanwhile, his bones somewhere in the Cabeza Prieta desert of southern Arizona, is contorting in his sleeping bag.

So again, I think we have to ask (before we can even begin to revisit Abbey’s notion of banning cars in the parks and instead giving every visitor a bicycle): do America’s National Parks really need an aggressive promotional campaign?

Kenny Karst, the ever amiable P.R. manager for DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc. (DNC being the exclusive concessionaire for that park and all manner of other nodes of entertainment and recreation across the globe), points out that even McDonald’s and Coca-Cola continue hard-selling their products through good times and bad.

So too our national parks, he argues, favoring a quote from his boss, Dan Jensen, C.O.O. of DNC’s operations in Yosemite, about how “Yosemite is comfort food.”

PROMOTE, v. [from the compact OED on my desk, which I can barely read (the glass is upstairs above the fireplace)]: to further the growth, development, progress, or establishment of (anything), to further, advance, encourage. To further the sale of (an article) by advertising or other modes of publicity, to publicize.

Some of which — i.e. to encourage — seems like a good idea, right? The rest maybe not so much. Or am I missing something? Are we trying to sell our national parks? Back to ourselves?

“It is but sixteen years since the Yosemite was first seen by a white man, several visitors have since made a journey of several thousand miles at large cost to see it, and notwithstanding the difficulties which now interpose, hundreds resort to it annually. Before many years, if proper facilities are offered, these hundreds will become thousands and in a century the whole number of visitors will be counted by millions. An injury to the scenery so slight that it may be unheeded by any visitor now, will be one multiplied by these millions.”

— Frederick Law Olmsted , 1865

The precise goals of the NPPC, as stated:

1) “to address downward trends in park visitation” [For more than ten years the numbers had been going down: The kids, it seemed, were more into video games. The rapid-growing impoverished and underemployed segment of the population? Maybe they just needed a nudge.]

2) “to recommend promotional funding strategies, seek partnerships and craft campaigns that serve to stimulate visitor appreciation and appropriate use of the treasured landscapes and educational resources across the National Park System.” [my ital.]

Putting aside for a moment why this might be a good idea — or not — we might ask: how does this organization propose to do such thing? Well, thus: “with resources and in ways presently not available to the National Park Service.”

Appreciating Half Dome. Yosemite Local

As it happens, the National Park Service is woefully, chronically, shockingly underfunded — to the tune of $500-$750 million annually, according to the National Parks Conservation Association, with “a backlog of maintenance and preservation projects of approximately $9 billion.

Visitor appreciation and appropriate use

From the beginning, park administrators have been saddled with the impossible task of, on the one hand, preserving these places in as pristine a state as possible, and on the other hand providing access to all citizens.

The landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, in his Yosemite and the Mariposa Grove: A Preliminary Report, 1865, argued that all improvements — and there should be many, he said: roads, bridges, cabins, signage, restaurants, the works — must be made in such a way that “should not detract from the dignity of the scene.”

Again, Edward Abbey on the “dignity of the scene” at what is now Arches National Park, as it was more than forty years ago (pardon the long citation, but it’s well written — and hilarious, in a tragic sort of way):

“Where once a few adventurous people came on weekends to camp for a night or two and enjoy a taste of the primitive and remote, you will now find serpentine streams of baroque automobiles pouring in and out, all through the spring and summer, in numbers that would have seemed fantastic when I worked there: from 3,000 to 30,000 to 300,000 per year, the “visitation,” as they call it, mounts ever upward. The little campgrounds where I used to putter around reading three-day-old newspapers full of lies and watermelon seeds have now been consolidated into one master campground that looks, during the busy season, like a suburban village: elaborate housetrailers of quilted aluminum crowd upon gigantic camper-trucks of Fiberglas and molded plastic; through their windows you will see the blue glow of television and hear the studio laughter of Los Angeles; knobby-kneed oldsters in plaid Bermudas buzz up and down the quaintly curving asphalt road on motorbikes; quarrels break out between campsite neighbors while others gather around their burning charcoal briquettes (ground campfires no longer permitted — not enough wood) to compare electric toothbrushes. Down at the beginning of the new road is the new entrance station and visitor center, where admission fees are collected and where the rangers are going quietly nuts answering the same three basic questions five hundred times a day: (1) Where’s the john? (2) How long’s it take to see this place? (3) Where’s the Coke machine?”

This new promotional organization is broad-reaching, to be sure, with a board of directors “comprised of representatives of national park cooperative and friends associations, tourism/hospitality entities, state tourism offices, gateway communities, the National Park Service (in an ex-officio capacity) and others interested in national parks,” operating with “guidance from finance, research and marketing committees comprised of nationally respected persons.” Do they all truly have the park’s (and the people’s) best interests in mind? We hope so.

As the author of a guidebook to Yosemite and Death Valley, and a forthcoming iPhone guide app, as a journalist trying to make a living writing about travel and adventure and land use in these sorts of places, I should perhaps be seeing dollar signs. As a local resident, I should be glad to think that one day my community — and my parks — might be sustained in a healthy way by more and more tourism. But I find I am wary.

Thoughts?

About The Author

David Page

David is the Founding Editor of BETA, Matador's new print magazine. His guidebook to Yosemite, the Southern Sierra Nevada and Death Valley earned him a 2009 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Award, and was named "Best Guidebook of 2008" by the Outdoor Writers Association of California. He has written for the Los Angeles Times Magazine, Men's Journal and The New York Times. He lives on the edge of one of the largest calderas on earth, in Mammoth Lakes, California, with his wife, his two boys, and an illegal migrant canine avatar of the Aztec god Xolotl.

  • http://cuadernoinedito.wordpress.com Julie

    “And Ed Abbey, meanwhile, his bones somewhere in the Cabeza Prieta desert of southern Arizona, is contorting in his sleeping bag.”

    Love it.

  • http://www.estrogenpalace.blogspot.com Tiffany

    There’s such a delicate balance between the financial benefit of tourism to places like our parks and the integrity of parks themselves. I worry for the wildlife. The parks aren’t the same anymore.

    I remember going to Yosemite in the 80′s when you could go further into it and see more. It was free then. And absolutely beautiful. But even 30 years ago I was aware of the changes and sad that I’d missed the days of the firefalls there. Now I just have pictures.

    I suppose it’s a choice for tourists. Folks who really love nature have to travel awfully far to actually see it. Next big thing: Antarctica?

  • http://carlo-alcos.com Carlo

    Wow. That is a shocking (and beautiful) video. Perhaps the organization, rather than trying to lure more people to the parks (since apparently lots of people are going anyway) should focus on finding ways to explore the park in a more sustainable manner. I noticed that there weren’t very many buses in that video, almost all vehicles were family cars. How about a hop-on, hop-off bus service? Maybe there is one, I don’t know (never been there) but if that video is any indication, it’s not being used enough (if there is one that is).

    Hopefully they do the right thing. Great quotes!

  • http://smaugsmusings.blogspot.com Shane

    Great article! We stayed at Yosemite last year over Labor Day Weekend. The crowds were so bad we really had a hard time enjoying ourselves. Then again, I don’t know what could be done about it. The U.S. population is only barely increasing, with a 2.1 replacement rate, so I don’t believe any kind of population control is in order, nor would it be good for the greater good of our economy. It’s tough, but I think the days of Ed Abbey’s early Arches are gone forever. The only hope now is to get miles back into the backcountry, where only a few permits are issued for travel.

  • http://www.Travel-Writers-Exchange.com Travel-Writers-Exchange.com

    The U.S.’s national park system is fabulous. However, if people don’t follow the rules, wildlife can suffer from it. Tourists need to respect wildlife and clean up after themselves. Use the trash and recycling (when provided) bins and throw out your trash. Keep your distance from wildlife — avoid getting to close just to get a perfect shot. It’s too bad that a council is needed to preserve the U.S.’s park system. All it takes is common sense from everyone to keep the parks alive and thriving.

  • http://www.twitter.com/yosemitesteve YosemiteSteve

    I’d like to think that Ed Abbey is rolling over in his greasy fart-sack!

    I, too, just discovered the National Parks Promotion Council only yesterday on Twitter, and i wondered “How long have they been around?” I don’t know if they support the mission of the National Park Service as much as they’re supporting the mission of all the gateway communities.

    Thanks for posting my video, too, David!

  • http://www.sierrasurvey.com David Page

    “All it takes is common sense from everyone…” That’s a beautiful sentiment, for sure, and one I’d like to have faith in, but I haven’t seen it borne out much across all of human history (or what I’ve read of it, anyway).

  • http://www.suite101.com/profile.cfm/kfsickel Kathlin Sickel

    Did Abbey actually say to give every visitor a bicycle, and ban cars? What an excellent idea. There must be some way to implement this; at least in part.

  • http://www.sierrasurvey.com David Page

    Here’s what he wrote: “Yosemite Valley… At present a dusty milling confusion of motor vehicles and ponderous camping machinery, it could be returned to relative beauty and order by the simple expedient of requiring all visitors, at the park entrance, to lock up their automobiles and continue their tour on the seats of good workable bicycles supplied free of charge by the United States Government.

    “Let our people travel light and free on their bicycles — nothing on the back but a shirt, nothing tied to the bike but a slicker, in case of rain. Their bedrolls, their backpacks, their tents, their food and cooking kits will be trucked in for them, free of charge, to the campground of their choice in the Valley, by the Park Service. (Why not? The roads will still be there.) Once in the Valley they will find the concessioners waiting, ready to supply whatever needs might have been overlooked, or to furnish rooms and meals for those who don’t want to camp out.”

    Right? And then he goes on to make some small compromises for the elderly and infirm and families with kids…

    I don’t know why, but we just don’t seem to have the courage to take that kind of thing on anymore… It’s sad, I think.

  • Henri

    That was a great video. I especially liked the time lapse of the rock climbers.

    The National Parks sure do get the big draw and a chance to collect the money as they bring in the big influx to places that might not see so many visitors otherwise. There still are a lot of uncrowded places to visit, but chances are these are located outside the NPS. In fact it is quite possible while the gates to Yosemite jammed, some of the the nearby national forest may not be so busy.

    Thanks for the article.

  • http://www.sierrasurvey.com David Page

    April 27, 2010: Senate Commerce Committee Hearing Addresses National Park Promotion… “A fundamental gyst [sic] of the hearing is that committee members support promoting national parks, domestically and internationally, and that the Commerce Committee is interested in overcoming promotional constraints which the NPS faces, in appropriate ways.”

  • http://www.sierrasurvey.com David Page

    And here’s Sen. Tom Udall (D, NM) speaking with National Parks Traveler Editor Kurt Repanshek :”I think we do need to be careful to not over-promote a park that’s being over-used…”

    http://www.nationalparkstraveler.com/podcast/2010/listen-interview-sen-tom-udall-discusses-whether-national-park-service-needs-promote-parks5844

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