A number of locals that we had met or dined at their restaurant/slept in their hut remembered us and our second visit was even more rewarding than the first because of this. The boy that had taken us on his boat to visit the caves and waterfall on our first visit recognised us straight away and we were then pretty much a part of his family for the rest of our stay. They fed us a number of times a day, piled us with lao lao and Beer Lao at all times of day, invited us for community games of patong and took us net fishing. We kept trying to buy some alcohol for them or at least buy some rice or provide some money for all of their stuff we were consuming but it was not to be. We were also lucky to be there when the annual boat race was on, which we were also made to join in with! That was an awesome experience. So yeh, I have an amazing opinion on the people of Muang Ngoi and not just the people I have spoken of. Mama who’s guesthouse we stayed in and who cooked for us most nights even gave us a packed lunch away with us when we left (for free) and gave us lots of tasty sweet coconut treats and what not.

There are a lot of guesthouses in Muang Ngoi but both times I have been there, there were never more than say 10 other travellers around, maybe 20 at a push as it was closer to peak season the first time we were there. It is a bit strange that there doesn’t seem to be much traditional work going on and the majority of income is made from tourists but every guesthouse and restaurant is still completely bare bones and electricity is limited to a couple of hours in the evening if you are lucky. The first time I visited though was rice growing season and there weren’t many men in the village as they were all out preparing the ground. The second time was after the rice harvesting so all the men were in town chilling, patonging and enjoying their lao lao. So for the men at least, there is still work to be done that doesn’t involve tourist money.

Fantastically beautiful place. I hope it hasn’t changed a bit by the next time I visit.

On a related note the place has a reputation for valuables going missing, and the owner apparently sexually assaulted a female tourist.

Riverside Bungalows are situated to the immediate right of the boat landing, it is a great location so please do not be tempted and walk a bit further on.

Not in my nature to complain, but this particular incident has ruined what should have been wonderful trip in an idyllic location.

I was worried by Justin’s statement that there was tubing available, and that the whole main street was full of hotels….when i was there it had an old shop and the doctor’s “surgery” (i.e his front room of his hut), sounded like it had become more known to the backpackers.

Happens to the best of place, it’ll still be a beautiful place to relax.