In the northern Luzon Cordillera, photographer Nick Kuchmak finds out the Philippines isn’t all beaches and sea.

THE RICE TERRACES of Banaue and Batad are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a major tourist attraction in mountainous northern Luzon, the Philippines’ main island. Most tourists travel only from Manila to Banaue and back, but farther north is an area of traditional cultures and some incredibly friendly people not yet accustomed to the everyday sight of tourists. When I explained my trekking plans to Manila locals, I was warned of “evil” people who live “backwards.” What I found, of course, was the polar opposite.

While the experience was highly rewarding, I believe it is of the utmost importance to tread lightly. A guide is a necessity to aid in communication as well as to help you avert any cultural offenses. Also, things like candy and money should never be handed out, especially to children, although gifts are received warmly in the region — particularly matches — so stock up before arriving.

The Cordillera offers a glimpse of a completely different side to the Philippines. Here’s what I saw.

About The Author

Nick Kuchmak

In a previous life, Nick was a paramedic living in the far north of Canada, but a yearning to travel and the endless long winters of ice and snow caused him to leave it all behind, and he booked his one-way ticket East. Follow him on his blog as he travels from Beijing to Indonesia, blogging and photographing as he goes.

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  • Natalie

    Wow! Beautiful pictures. They’re simple but convey so much, nicely done.

  • Linda

    Nick, great photo essay.

    How will you send the photo to the couple? Did you get a mailing address?

  • http://www.expatheather.com Heather Carreiro

    Gorgeous collection of photos. I love how you were able to intimately capture the people.

  • http://musictravelwrite.wordpress.com Michelle

    Beautiful essay, especially the portraits.

  • http://muddle-earth.tumblr.com Lilia

    Hi! Awesome photos! You really captured the simple life up in Banaue.

    I just didn’t understand why some of the locals here in Manila would term the community there as evil. Really weird.

    By the way, what settings did you use to take the portrait of the old man smoking his pipe? It’s amazing! I love the way the smoke from his pipe curls up in air.

  • Risa C

    Wonderful pictures. I had the opportunity to go to Sagada as well. The view of the mountains and rice terraces are indeed stunning. Did you get to explore the caves?

  • Kelsie

    I love your portraits! You’re a great photographer! What camera do you use?

  • http://www.flowersbydesignbarrie.ca Nicole

    Amazing! So impressed… Your pictures rock!!

  • rico

    When I explained my trekking plans to Manila locals, I was warned of “evil” people who live “backwards.” – You simply asked the wrong people. ;)

    Also there are so many places to see and people to meet in the Philippines. If you love Photography the country has more than 7,100 islands you could shoot at.

    I highly recommend these sites [http://tourism-philippines.com] or [http://lakbaypilipinas.com/]

  • http://www.sevenclicks.org Nikki

    Wow!!!! I’ve never been to this part of my country but would like to travel especially now after seeing your photos!

  • Adri

    #17: They have the same custom with people in Toraja – Indonesia! Its interesting to know that! But in Toraja the most expensive animal to be sacrificed is ‘pink cow’, pig is the cheapest one. If you happen to come to Indonesia, try to go to Toraja, its 8 hours drive from Makasar. They have unique funeral ceremony, eventhough the way they sacrifice the cows/buffaloes/pigs more like the ‘killing field of animals’ for me.

    Your pictures tell the story, great ones!!

  • Khonie

    Beautiful. Thank you for sharing ;-)

  • http://onefilipinodish.com paoix

    This is a fantastic view of Filipino life seldom seen. This is great work!

  • http://www.feverdreaming.net/blog Naomi

    This set floored me, especially the ninth photo. She looks so familiar, like someone’s hippie mom from Berkeley :)

  • http://www.theworldonatoilet.com Wabusk

    Thanks for all the kind comments.

    Linda – Yes I got the mailing address of my guide who visits the area frequently

    Kelsie – Nikon D90

    Adri – Funny thing you mention Toraja. Im actually in Rantepao right now!

  • Adri

    Really? Wow :-) Enjoy Toraja Nick! I love Batutumonga :-) Looking forward to your next photo essay!

  • Jillian

    Your pictures are amazing!
    I am planning another, more extensive trip to the Philippines this summer. I wanted to go to Banaue but I was wondering how you went further? Did you use a tour company? Etc.
    Thanks so much!

  • http://www.theworldonatoilet.com Wabusk

    Hey Jillian, No tour company needed! Just head on up to Bontoc from Banaue and catch a jeepney for a two hour ride to Tinglayen in Kalinga province. There are two guides around that town so just ask around the hotels and enjoy!

  • http://www.mattporteousphotos.co.uk matt

    Hay Nick

    Just looking through your Blog, really stunning images and loved the story, I’m booked up to head out there Jan 2011, I’ve been trailing through the web to see if theres any info on guides, I really want to find a helpful friendly guide, Did you meet you guide in Banaue or had you all ready arranged to meet before heading that way. any info would be much appreciated.
    your images have made me even more excited to get out there and explore the fairly un travelled parts of the philippines.

    Keep up the great work

    Matt

  • http://www.theworldonatoilet.com Nick

    Thanks for the comments Matt. I found a guy by simply asking the guesthouse I was staying at. I wouldnt bother organizing anything before hand as once you arrive in Banaue the guides will simply find you. There is lots of info about trekking in North Luzon on my webpage at;

    http://theworldonatoilet.com/?s=banaue

    Hope this helps..Have a great trip.

  • http://www.mattporteousphotos.co.uk matt

    Hay Nick

    Thanks for your reply had a look through your blog, some really great traveling on there, you been having a good time, where you going next, are you still traveling ? Enjoy winter and many thanks

    MAtt

  • jonel vinas

    “very nice shoot… i wana go in banaue to meet those native there… i love the place… like the water falls and the rice terraces… very good photography…

  • Caroline

    I had a chance to catch a glimpse of the beauty of the Banaue Rice Terraces while I’m on my way travelling to Sagada. Great place, what a fantastic view!! :) )

  • Caroline

    I had a chance to catch a glimpse of the beauty of the Banaue Rice Terraces while I’m on my way travelling to Sagada. Great place, what a fantastic view!! :) )

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