After traveling overland with two best friends to fourteen countries in Africa and the Middle East, Lalibela, Ethiopia, stands out as one of the most fascinating places we visited. Home to thirteen monolithic churches, which were all carved down into the earth out of a single block of red volcanic rock, Lalibela is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its churches are some of the greatest architectural achievements in the history of the world.
It is said that after seeing Jerusalem taken by the Muslims in 1187, King Lalibela, who ruled Ethiopia for 40 years, commissioned these churches to be built with the intention of having Lalibela serve as a new Jerusalem. They are still in use today, home to priests, monks, and worshipers, and serving as a religious sanctuary for pilgrims who come from all over the world.
Balancing the need to be respectful of those who were worshiping and the realities of being a photojournalist, I spent three days wandering and photographing what I would consider to be the 8th wonder of the world. ![]()
St. George's Church, Ethiopia
St. George’s Church blends into the surrounding mountainsides of Lalibela. To get to the town, you can either take a two-day bus from Addis, (stopping over in Dessie for the night -- under $20), or you can fly direct from Addis and most other big towns for about $150. To tour the churches, either on your own or with a guide, you must pay a one-time entrance fee of $20.
Cleaning St. George's Church
Here, women can be seen cleaning St. George's Church. The government has spent millions of dollars to maintain and protect the churches from the elements.
Lalibela cross
A priest holds a Lalibela cross. The cross is said to have been given by angels to King Lalibela.
Ghostly worshipers in St. Mary's Church
Worshipers attend Mass inside St. Mary’s Church. Visitors are allowed to attend certain Masses, although in some of the churches you need to be invited by a member of that specific church.
Lalibela worshiper
A worshiper takes a moment to pray. The vast majority of the population of Lalibela is Ethiopian Orthodox Christian.
Sunday liturgy in Lalibela
A priest gives the Sunday liturgy to about five hundred worshipers. The theme of the day in part: that despite the intrusion some feel from tourists, to respect all of the different nationalities of people that come to visit Lalibela, to treat them with kindness, and welcome them.
Sunday worshipers
Worshipers leave St. Mary’s Church after Sunday Mass and collect their shoes on the way out.
Sunday Mass
A priest stands outside of St. Mary’s Church after Sunday Mass.
Rock paths around Lalibela, Ethiopia
When not in the churches, you can easily get lost within the maze of carved rock paths and corridors that link all of the sites. The people in Lalibela are so kind and always willing to show you the way or answer questions.
Ethiopian Orthodox monk
If you want to hike or ride a mule up the nearby mountains, or venture some distance outside of Lalibela, there are many other rock churches and monasteries to explore. Here, a monk poses for a picture in his mountaintop Ethiopian Orthodox monastery.
Ethiopian monk
A monk makes her way from her monk hole to the market. Most of the monks spend almost the whole day praying inside, only leaving to get food.
Ethiopian bible
A monk reads the Ethiopian Orthodox Bible, using a birr (Ethiopian monetary note) as a bookmark. Most of the priests and monks are kind enough to let you take their photograph, usually for a small donation.
Inside an Ethiopian home
While wandering the churches I was asked by a small boy, Chalalhew Megus, to come to his house for a coffee. I followed him to his small home, where I met his mother (pictured), grandmothers, and two sisters. Although we could not communicate more than a few words, for the next hour I enjoyed some of the best freshly ground coffee I have ever tasted.
War victims, Ethiopia
After having coffee and popcorn, Chalalhew Megus wanted me to take a photograph of him holding a portrait of his father, who was killed in the Ethiopian-Eritrean war. To the right is his father’s mother. It was a very powerful moment and one I’ll never forget.
Sunday worshipers
Worshipers return from morning Mass.
Shepherd boy, Ethiopia
A shepherd boy poses for a photograph in the center of town.
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