“It’s a humbling experience every time you ride a wave. You sort of feel like you cheated death a little bit.” Dan says.
Any surfer, novice or pro, will tell you that catching a wave is one of the greatest feelings in the world. I have only caught one myself, and it was an inglorious, wobbly, furtive experience…but I grabbed a glimpse of what the magic of surfing could be. For a second, right before I went ass over teakettle, I was flying. When I think about carving a 68ft waves it equates to throwing a saddle over Neptune and claiming dominion over the seas. Oh well, maybe I should leave it to the big boys.
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Joshywashington is a Travel Media Ninja from Seattle who enjoys writing, climbing trees and strong coffee.
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