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Nowhere else is the world laid out on a life-size map like the view from the top of the Rock of Gibraltar. You'll find yourself staring down Africa to the south, watching Spain's mountains and sand wrap the Mediterranean in the East, and westward the sea falling slowly off the map into the Atlantic.

For most visitors, Gibraltar goes as only far as the 1,400-foot rock that is the tiny territory's raison d'être. But those who focus only on the view and Gibraltar's monkeys miss the rest of the reasons why 30,000 people choose to live here. Though the typical red British phonebooth is the first thing you'll see after crossing the border to Winston Churchill Avenue, its a fiercely independent territory with its own currency and government, a funky dialect that goes beyond simple Spanglish, and a seriously diverse population, for while Brits are the largest ethnicity, they still make up less than 30 percent of the total.


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