After a week straight of rain and flooding, we’re finally getting some sun here in Massachusetts. With temperature’s rising, the Northeast climbing season is opening.
I’d like to celebrate by sharing a video of one of New England’s classic climbs: Speed of Life.
Located in Farley, MA, Speed of Life (V10) is a strong candidate for the most beautiful hunk of rock in the US, a highball gneiss boulder with an almost-flawless face. First climbed by Maine native Dave Graham, it has a reputation as one of the most perfect boulder problemsof it’s grade, a crimpy, steeply overhanging climb full of big moves.
This video is by climber Jon Glassberg, who sent Speed of Life during a trip to Massachusetts this past winter. Apart from the final, celebratory crotch grab, I think Glassberg does a good job of conveying why Speed of Life has come to represent the perfect climb for so many people.
You can see Dave Graham’s first ascent of Speed of Life on YouTube.