NINE DAYS INTO a 35-day trip across Argentina, I am bumping down a dirt road in a cab with a bald man named Oscar.
Saintly amulets swing from the rear view mirror. Flocks of wild green parrots erupt from the roadside trees and streak across the road in tight bundles. From Cordoba, I’d bused to Jesus Maria, and from there I hired Oscar to drive me down a seemingly unending dirt road, further and further into a beautiful wild nowhere. A half day in transit to get to 5,000 acres that go by the name Dos Lunas Riding Lodge. Gentle hills, wind-brushed plains, mountains, forest, caves, and valleys, the region surrounding the estancia is some of the most beautiful land I have ever seen.
To Oscar’s relief we finally arrive, and striding towards me from the Dos Lunas kitchen is my guide, Juan Bello. A big man in a blue beret, he shakes my hand and immediately asks me when I’ll be ready to ride. I’ve been at Dos Lunas for less than a half hour when Juan swings open the corral gate and we head out into the sweeping expanse of the ranch.
Note: My accommodation and guide costs were comped for this trip.