In episode 10 of the Big In The Stans tour, White City upgrades to the penthouse suite.

Tashkent was the cultural jewel in the Soviet crown and, although Uzbekistan is now a notoriously corrupt totalitarian state, that pride lives on through the city’s architecture and its focus on the arts. You’ll find musicians, actors, artists, photographers, and fashion designers all working, living, and socialising together, often on the same projects. Bohemian is an understatement.

The Ilkhom Theatre is legendary for courting controversy through its experimental repertoire in a heavily censored culture. Its founder, Mark Weil, was brutally murdered in 2007. The official line went that he was targeted by Islamists, offended by one of his plays, but many believe it to have been a politically motivated assassination.

Photo: David Gill

We were honoured to play Ilkhom and put on our own experimental show, complete with local musicians and leotard-clad interpretive dancers.

At the end of our series of concerts, we threw an after party in our hotel’s penthouse suite, which cost $10 to upgrade to. Travka tried to bribe the hotel workers to let us party all night but, take note folks, this was the only ‘Stan we visited where it didn’t work and we were thrown out!