1. The idea of letting yourself go over the holidays is inconceivable
It’s the holiday break. My friends giddily anticipate having home-cooked meals, fancy hair cuts and expensive shopping trips paid for by their ever-doting parents. They can’t wait to sit by the TV and the fire to watch a classic Christmas movie. When I get home, my dad will look me up and down and confidently nod that I’ll still fit into my 3mm wetsuit. Having the holidays off means a surf sesh at 5 am in the morning at Salmon Creek (affectionately referred to in those parts as “Smashin’ Creek,” where many a man has paddled desperately away from a looming shark fin). If the wind is blowing in the wrong direction, we may trek to Dillon Beach where we can let the dogs roam and snap at whitewater until we’re back on land. He also throws out there that my old rock climbing shoes are in the trunk. So is my harness and chalk bag. I start to feel suspicious. He planned this. He didn’t have to. I’ll spend my holidays hoping to avoid great white sharks and falling off the side of Goat Rock every year.