Hong Kong’s neon-lit, English-speaking streets have made it stop #1 for many first-time travelers to Asia. The bustling city — and it’s amazing street food — is just half the picture: The real Hong Kong is a vast and wild natural wonder. After all, it was a mere fishing village not too long ago.

Asia’s financial capital can be a bit pricey, but we’ll show you how to do it on a budget. We’ll send you off to Long Ke Wan Beach and Kowloon, get you wandering UNESCO sites and locking eyes with the Tin Tian Buddha, and have you back navigating the subway in no time. We’ll also explain why you should buy your drinks at the 7-11. It’s all below.