Picture yourself gliding across the surface of a frozen lake while featherlight snowflakes tumble down from the sky. In the distance, you can just make out the snow-capped summit of Whistlers Mountain, which rises above the small town of Jasper, Alberta, in the Canadian Rockies. After a few laps, you stop to warm up with a mug of cocoa by the firepit and admire the postcard winter setting: pine trees frosted white and jagged peaks in every direction.

Many destinations claim to be winter wonderlands, but this small town and the surrounding wilderness of Jasper National Park (the largest national park in Canada’s Rockies) easily earns the title. When snow blankets the Athabasca Valley and the mountains that encircle it, the nearby slopes and trails turn into a playground for skiers and snowshoers.

Vacationing in a remote mountain setting doesn’t have to mean roughing it, though. Jasper has been welcoming wayfarers since train service reached the town in the early 1900s, and the first hotels and resorts were built a decade later. That includes the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, now as much of an icon as Whistlers Mountain itself. Here’s the case for spending winter in Jasper, with the lodge as your wonderland base.

Exhibit A: Jasper’s landmark lodge just got a refresh.

Jasper in winter

Photo: Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge

Set on 700 scenic acres on the shore of Lac Beauvert, the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge elevates every winter adventure. What was originally a cluster of canvas tents has transformed into a luxurious collection of rustic log and timber-frame cabins, guest suites, and rooms that exemplify modern comfort while fostering a sense of place.

A recent renovation reveals cabin-style rooms and suites that reflect the landscape: blue and green motifs inspired by the sky and forest are offset by carved wood details and mountain-themed art. The changes are less about thread count and pillow firmness (though a customizable pillow menu is available) and more about creating spaces where it’s easy and enjoyable to connect with loved ones by a wood-burning fireplace, or in nature just outside the door.

Exhibit B: You can skate, cross-country ski, and snowshoe just beyond your door.

Jasper in winter

Photo: Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge

Winter in Jasper is defined by fresh mountain air, frozen lakes, and snowy trails, and you can get your fill of all three on the lodge’s expansive grounds. Head to Lake Mildred for a 0.6-mile glide around its frozen surface, or for a game of pick-up hockey on a maintained outdoor rink.

The lodge also grooms and track-sets 16 miles of Nordic trails suitable for classic or skate skiing. The pathways undulate across the open fairways of the snow-covered Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge Golf Course on scenic loops with outstanding mountain views. Alternatively, you can go “winter hiking” (aka snowshoeing) and traipse along snowy forest trails. The 1.9-mile path that circles Lac Beauvert is a family favorite.

There’s no need for hotel guests to lug outdoor gear to Jasper, either. Visit Embark Outpost & Provisions, located downstairs in the main lodge, for complimentary rentals including ice skates, cross-country skis, snowshoes, and toboggans for sledding. To-go drinks, snacks, and lunches are also available for purchase, or you can relax in your suite after the adventure and order room service — including signature bottled cocktails — with a mountain view.

Exhibit C: An adventure concierge handles downhill days.

Jasper in winter

Photo: Tourism Jasper

Speaking of après ski, the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge makes an ideal base camp for downhill skiers. A regular shuttle runs between the property and the Marmot Basin ski area, an alpine playground spread across 1,720 acres of open bowls, gladed forests, and groomed cruisers. The mountain’s 91 runs funnel down to a single base area, making the ski resort easy to navigate for those unfamiliar with its layout and terrain.

Thanks to its remote location, Marmot Basin sees fewer crowds than other resorts in the Canadian Rockies, which translates into minimal lift lines and a charming, old-school ski-hill vibe. To make your ski experience even more frictionless, the lodge’s adventure concierge can coordinate everything from lift tickets to rentals, and the ski concierge will whisk away your bulky gear to store by the bell desk.

After a day on the slopes, book a spa treatment or the Glacial Plunge & Sauna experience, an hour-long guided session that moves between a barrel sauna on the shore of Lac Beauvert and dips into the lake itself, with breathwork to get you through the cold. If you’d rather stay warm, the lodge’s outdoor heated pool is open all winter.

Exhibit D: You can walk the floor of a frozen canyon.

Jasper in winter

Photo: Zoya Lynch Photography / Tourism Jasper

Jasper National Park is part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its natural beauty and geological features, including soaring peaks, karst cave systems, and deep limestone canyons. To see one of its incredible rock formations up close, journey deep into Pleckaitis Canyon with SunDog Tours, which picks up right from the lodge.

The tour visits nearby Medicine Lake and drives through part of the surrounding forest. But the highlight is the canyon icewalk, which reveals Jasper’s unique geology and ecology in real time. After strapping on ice cleats for grip and a helmet for safety, you tromp past spectacular ice floes and huge pointy icicles cascading down the gorge’s precipitous cliff walls. The experience is both thrilling and humbling, leaving participants with a greater appreciation for the power of nature.

Exhibit E: Christmas starts in November.

Jasper in winter

Photo: Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge

Sometimes, though, you just need the power of celebration, and Jasper has perfected holiday festivities with twinkling lights, trimmed trees, a Christmas artisan market, and even a Holiday Mug Trail that leads thirsty travelers to iconic spots around town for a cup of cheer. The season is also feted in style at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, which, for the past three decades, has gotten a jump on the holidays with Christmas in November.

The multi-day event brings in big culinary names, including Food Network chefs, to lead masterclasses. Between sessions there are tastings, seasonal workshops, and meals with the chefs. The evenings get progressively dressier, starting with the Evergreen Chalet, an après-ski party with a European bent, and ending with a black-tie ball.

It’s a fun segue to the main event: spending the holidays snug in a cozy suite or cabin at the lodge. The property goes all out over Christmas and New Year’s with cookie-decorating and visits to Santa’s Cabin for the kids, plus adult attractions like a pop-up Christmas lounge and lakeside ice bar. And, of course, there’s always hot chocolate by the fire after tobogganing or ice skating.

With so many ways to embrace the snow in Jasper, it’s no surprise the townsite and national park are regularly named a top ski town and winter getaway. Start planning your visit to get in on the fresh mountain air and activities in Alberta’s favorite winter wonderland.