Canadians do winter right. Case in point: Thunder Bay. This city in Northern Ontario packs two downhill ski areas, two Nordic centres with trails for all skill levels, and a waterfront skating pad into one easy-to-reach package. Add a food scene worth thawing out for, and you’ve got a winter trip that never needs to leave town.
With direct flights from major Canadian cities (and a US border crossing about an hour away), Thunder Bay is Northern Ontario’s most convenient winter getaway. Hit the downhill by day and eat your way through the city by night. If you’ve got time to spare, or you’re not one to stay put for a whole trip, Thunder Bay is also a launchpad for a scenic winter drive along Lake Superior’s North Shore. Head east to Marathon, where quiet boreal forest trails are waiting, and Thunder Bay will be there when you get back.
Stay and play in Thunder Bay
Photo: Destination Ontario
A few days in Thunder Bay can cover a lot of ground, and most of that ground will be snowy. The city’s ski hills are the obvious place to start.
Thunder Bay has two main downhill ski areas on opposite sides of town: Mount Baldy and Loch Lomond. Mount Baldy is smaller and family focused, featuring three lifts and night skiing on Fridays and Saturdays. Roughly 10 minutes from downtown, Loch Lomond has the greater vertical drop at 229 metres (750 feet). It’s a solid option for both beginner and more advanced skiers, with a cozy chalet restaurant for après-ski.
Cross-country skiers and snowshoers should head to the Kamview Nordic Centre, where more than 30 kilometres (19 miles) of trails are groomed all winter for every level. There are rentals on-site and a café known for its massive chocolate chip cookies. Lappe Nordic Ski Centre is the other option, with 14 kilometres (9 miles) of trails, plus night skiing. It doesn’t rent gear to drop-in skiers (so bring your own), but the chalet makes up for it with saunas and Finnish pancakes.
If you’d rather lace up than clip in, the ice rink at Prince Arthur’s Landing in Marina Park is right on the waterfront, with an outdoor fireplace to keep warm and views of the Sleeping Giant across Lake Superior.
The giant in question is a string of mesas that looks like a figure lying on its back when seen from the city. In Ojibwe tradition, it’s the spirit Nanabijou. To see it up close, drive an hour east to Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, where more cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and skating await — plus winter camping if you’re prepared to fully embrace the season.
Nineteenth-century fur traders had their own version of roughing it, which you can learn about at Fort William Historical Park. The park is a living history museum (one of North America’s largest) that recreates the North West Company’s inland base by way of 57 heritage buildings, re-enactments, and community events. It’s open throughout the winter and hosts season-specific celebrations, including a winter solstice event and a candlelit New Year’s Eve Family Frolic in December. Then in February, the Voyageur Winter Carnival brings two days of sliding, contests, and visits with the farm animals.
Courthouse Hotel. Photo: Destination Ontario
By late afternoon, the priority shifts to warming up, which in Thunder Bay can mean either a Persian or a pint. Head to The Persian Man to try the city’s signature sweet treat. It’s kind of like a cross between a doughnut and a cinnamon roll, made from soft fried cinnamon dough under pink berry-flavoured icing. For a pint, take your pick: Dawson Trail Craft Brewery has tasting flights and old-school arcade games, Lakehead Beer Company shares its downtown space with a Detroit-style pizza joint, and The Brew Pub pours its pints to live music.
If cocktails and a family-style tasting menu are more your speed, beeline to Tomlin for seasonal dishes like tuna crudo, braised lamb shank, and pistachio Basque cheesecake. For homemade pasta and wood-fired pizza, try Nook in the Bay & Algoma District, which changes its menu regularly to follow what’s local.
The question of where to sleep mostly comes down to how far you want to be from dinner. Thunder Bay’s bigger-name hotel brands are located in the Waterfront District. Delta Hotels Thunder Bay sits right at Prince Arthur’s Landing, so the commute from Nook’s gnocchi to g’night is a 15-minute walk.
For a stay with a more intriguing history, drop your bags at The Courthouse Hotel. Built in 1924 as a classical revival courthouse, it reopened as a 40-room boutique hotel in 2019 after a multimillion-dollar renovation. The old courtroom is now the ballroom, with the jury boxes and judge’s bench still in place, and many rooms look out over Lake Superior and the Sleeping Giant.
More winter fun: Make the Marathon run
Photo: Destination Ontario
If you’ve got a few extra days or simply want to see as much of Northern Ontario’s sparkly season as you can, point the car east. Marathon is about 3.5 hours away, a straight shot down the Trans-Canada Highway. Take in views of the Sleeping Giant and the Nipigon River Bridge along the way. Plan on pulling over at least once to snap some photos of the lake peeking through the trees.
While Thunder Bay has plenty of Nordic trails, Marathon’s are worth the drive for the quiet alone. At the Marathon Cross-Country Ski and Snowshoe Club, you’ll find a well-maintained network of trails that’s accessible for all skill levels and slower-paced than the region’s busier trail systems. The club grooms 15 kilometres (9 miles) through peaceful boreal forest for both classic and skate skiing, about a third of which is lit at night. Snowshoers get their own 5 kilometres (3 miles) of trails across four routes, complete with Lake Superior views.
To glimpse more of the serene shoreline, take a moment to visit Pebble Beach in town, where the lake meets a stretch of smooth, rounded stones. There’s a good chance it’ll be empty in winter, perfect for a moment of quiet reflection (just remember to wear boots with grip as the path down can get slippery).
Plan to spend the night in Marathon (especially if you want to ski under the lights), then head back west the next day. That’s the beauty of Thunder Bay in winter: there’s enough in town to fill your whole trip, and enough beyond it to make you want to stay a little longer. 