Tiny Caye Caulker, considered by some a “backpacker’s paradise,” is only a 45-minute ferry ride from Belize City, but it might as well be on another planet.
Only four miles long, it’s best explored by bike, though the occasional golf cart ride comes in handy when temperatures rise. Caye Caulker has access to the Barrier Reef, a laid back Caribbean attitude, and fun nightlife.
Take the sunset cruise with Ragamuffin Tours, a 2.5-hour sailboat ride around the Caye at sunset. More of a booze cruise than anything, I was barefoot within the first five minutes, on top of the deck in ten, and tipsy in fifteen. Once the Reggaeton got bumping, I wasn’t the only passenger enjoying the floating party.
All you can drink rum punch and chips and salsa were served by bartender Shane, and our safety needs were taken care of by a very sober, yet very fun, Captain James. I’d go every sunset if I could.
My new obsession is paddle boarding, so I was happy to rent a board and paddle along the mangroves. I probably should have thought more about the current I’d face on the way back — I got stuck at the end of the caye and had to drag the 11ft board out of the water and portage to where the water was calmer.
A guide told me, “Caye Caulker is affordable for everyone! If you don’t have any money, make a little trouble and spend the night in jail for free. It’s right on the beach!”
I avoided lockup and stayed at Caye Caulker Plaza Hotel. It’s located close to two ferry services, so if you’re catching an early boat you can sleep until the last minute. The rooftop terrace offers amazing views of the water.
* Barracuda I caught myself and had cleaned and grilled at Rose’s Grill and Bar. Probably one of the best meals of my life. Check out my fishing photos.
* Chicken nachos on the beach at Bambooze, with lots of Marie Sharp Hot Sauce.
* Take-away Creole-style stewed chicken at Chan’s, across the street from Caye Caulker Plaza Hotel.
Spending some time talking with Chocolate, a local living legend. He was the first guide to take travelers on trips to Swallow Caye, 9,000 acres of sea and mangrove that’s a sanctuary for manatees.
Chocolate, who grew up poor and illiterate, played an important role in preserving Swallow Caye. He’s now in his 80s and still runs tours but is talking about retirement.
Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley are only about 30 minutes offshore from Caye Caulker. The place to snorkel in Belize, visitors are sure to see stingrays, eaglerays, nurse sharks, sea turtles, and schools of colorful fish.
Many of the guides feed the animals chunks of sardines, which has made the wildlife tame. I felt like Ariel when I was swarmed by a school of yellowjacks looking for a handout. It’s a bit like an underwater petting zoo — my guide was actually holding a 20lb grouper. I really wish I had an underwater camera.
Drugs are illegal everywhere in Belize without question. While no one offered to sell me any, a few people warned me that locals will sell pot to tourists who think they are above the law; the dealers then inform the police, who quickly arrest the tourist. Be warned.
Years ago, Caye Caulker was split in two by a hurricane, and the resulting channel, called the Split, is now the best place to swim, sun, and order a Panty Ripper.