1. Bar Mancera
A great shabby-genteel venue with domino-slapping regulars by day; some nights go late and the hip kids come in.
Venustiano Carranza 49; 5521 9755; open daily 10 am-8 pm.
2. La Ópera
Look for the legendary Pancho Villa bullet hole amid splendid belle-époque appointments. Strolling musicians make up in romance what they lack in strict musical training.
5 de Mayo 10, at Filomeno Mata; 5512 8959; barlaopera.com; Mon-Sat 1 pm-12 am, Sun 1 pm-6 pm.