Balfour Street seemed to go on and on endlessly. Daniel Reuven, the grandson, I was told, of Gandhi’s physician, Dr. Solomon Abraham Erulkar, lived somewhere off this street.
Reuven had mentioned where, but he spoke so quickly it was not clear to me. Somehow I wound up a few feet from the sea in Bat Yam, where the bus driver, hatchet-faced, in the Israeli bus driver tradition, evicted me. The stillness of the water tempted me to abandon my Israeli Gandhi story and hunker down on the beach before catching an afternoon bus back to Jerusalem, a city badly in need of a sea, or even a lesser water body, to soften all that stone, all that holiness.