1. SOMEWHERE AROUND MACON the sweetgums appear. Pines change from slash and long-leaf to lob lolly. Then tulip trees, oaks. The rolling farmland that started around Valdosta keeps getting steeper. Getting into the Piedmont now. The forests of my childhood. Red dirt gulleys you could follow. Trails. My earliest travels, following creeks back through the Chattahoochee watershed.