Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Education Meets Expedition on This Luxury Cruise to Antarctica

Antarctic Cruises
by Reinier van Oorsouw Lorena del Castillo Jan 24, 2024

It’s no secret that cruising to Antarctica is a popular choice for expedition travelers. The International Association of Antarctica Cruise Operators (IAATO) reports that 32,730 cruise-only passengers visited the seventh continent during the 2022-23 travel season, with more than twice that number making landings on the ground.

Abercrombie and Kent (A&K) is one of several cruise operators that travels to Antarctica. My partner and I joined a Luxury Expedition Cruise aboard Le Lyrial, chartered by A&K, that began on the lively streets of Buenos Aires and ventured into the frozen wilderness at the edge of the world.

The journey surpassed our expectations, providing an immersive and educational experience that helped us better understand the untamed beauty of the seventh continent — starting with a sleek, modern vessel whose minimalist yet cozy interior mirrors the surrounding scenery.

Inside Le Lyrial

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

At 161 square feet, Le Lyrial’s standard cabins provide ample space for two with a queen-size bed. Our seaview cabin featured a glass door that opened to a balcony to ensure that we always woke up to breathtaking views. The ship’s larger suites, spanning approximately 322 square feet, also include a personal living room.

There are two restaurants on board: La Comète, which operates a buffet-style service, and Le Céleste, which serves an à la carte menu. The ship’s culinary offerings span a wide variety of tastes, many of them gourmet, including caviar and snails.

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Le Lyrial also stages an afternoon tea, featuring a selection of pastries accompanied by soothing live music. Elsewhere, passengers can visit the ship’s cocktail bar to sip premium alcoholic beverages while listening to live piano music.

Other amenities on board Le Lyrial include a spa, gym, and heated pool, which allows passengers to swim comfortably amid the iciness of the Antarctic environment.

Setting sail in Buenos Aires

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

When thoughts turn to Buenos Aires, visions of beautiful architecture, vibrant culture, and artistic treasures naturally spring to mind. As we touched down at Ezeiza Airport in Buenos Aires, our journey led us to the five-star Hyatt Hotel, housed within the historic Palacio Duhau building. Inspired by the elegance of Paris’s Château du Marais, this architectural hotel set the stage for our Antarctic expedition.

Following an initial briefing, the prelude to our voyage took a cultural bent with a spirited tango demonstration. Opting for a city exploration by way of a street art tour, we delved into the lively scenes of the Palermo and Colegiales neighborhoods, whose diverse murals tell unique narratives. Though the thrust of our adventure centered on an Antarctic expedition, having time to explore our initial destination, Argentina’s dynamic capital, added value to the overall trip.

A firsthand education on Antarctica

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Upon arriving in Ushuaia, Argentina, the world’s southernmost city, A&K arranged a scenic lunch at the Arakur hotel, yielding stunning views of the Beagle Channel and the impressive Martial Mountain Range. Excitement peaked as we eagerly boarded Le Lyrial accompanied by our expert expedition team — tour guides, zodiac drivers, and scientists.

Access to these experts is one of the best parts about an A&K Luxury Expedition Cruise to Antarctica. Throughout our journey, we enjoyed engaging lectures covering various aspects of the continent, from its fauna and geology to the history of its first explorations. Notable moments included learning about the impressive wingspans of albatrosses, the navigational skills of petrels, and the polar adaptations of penguins.

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Our education extended to marine and land mammals. We learned about the acrobatics and songs sung by humpback whales, the deep-diving abilities and intricate social structures of sperm whales, the extraordinary diving skills of Antarctic seals, and the crucial role that blubber plays in insulating them in cold waters. Discussions further highlighted leopard seals, along with orcas, as the foremost predators in polar ecosystems.

Award-winning documentaries and films play in the ship’s theater to complement the lectures that passengers are invited to attend. These films provide a greater understanding of Antarctica’s scientific importance. They also offer luxury cruisers a window into the hardships endured by scientists and personnel at research stations during the challenging Antarctic winters, highlighting their resilience and the distinctive way of life they’ve developed.

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Listening to and speaking with the scientific crew and guides, some of the world’s foremost experts on the continent, gives weight to the overall cruising experience. Special guest lecturer Dr. James McClintock, who drew attention to the threats of climate change in Antarctica, helped us to realize one positive impact that cruising can have on the potential harms to the continent’s unique biodiversity and the significant rise in sea levels due to melting glaciers.

“When you come to Antarctica and witness these changes firsthand, you become an ambassador for the environment,” Dr. McClintock said. “People on these expeditions can connect with these issues and make a difference by taking action against climate change, even in their own homes.”

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Wildlife sightings, from albatrosses to whales, in the ship’s Observatory Lounge added a dynamic layer to our learning. We also got the opportunity to visit Le Lyrial’s navigation bridge, gaining insights into the machinery that guided us.

The journey is not always easy. While navigating the shaky waters of the Drake Passage, humorously dubbed the “Drake Shake” by the crew, seasickness medication is recommended to counteract the rough seas. Passengers have the option to bring their own medication, but medication can also be provided at the onboard medical center.

Zodiac adventures and landings on the continent

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

The first inland adventure of our Antarctic expedition awaited through the rocky expanses of the Brown Bluff on the Antarctic Peninsula, which is home to a colony of adélie penguins. The small, tuxedoed species thrives in rocky coastal areas where the penguins can dive into chilly waters to feast on krill and fish. Observing their daily routines against the rugged backdrop felt like stumbling upon a wildlife sanctuary and seeing the ship’s lectures come to life.

Venturing farther into the icy Weddell Sea, we hopped into small rubber Zodiac boats for a tour into the Active Sound. As the landscape unfolded, gulls soared overhead, icebergs presented in a fascinating array of shapes, and we had a front-row seat. These encounters brought a sense of authenticity and appreciation to the cruising experience and Antarctica’s raw beauty.

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Embarking on our Zodiacs, we explored the captivating landscapes of President Head at the eastern tip of the South Shetland Islands. Post-breeding season, we were greeted by the impressive sight of massive elephant seals in their natural habitat. Our journey then led us to Deception Island, a unique ring-shaped formation shaped by the flooded caldera of a volcano. Stepping onto the island, we noted the distinctive vapor coming out of the water, and the warmth beneath our feet served as reminders of its volcanic origins.

Amid this surreal landscape, we discovered remnants of whaling activities frozen in time, including abandoned oil storage tanks, carpentry workshops, warehouses, and weathered worker houses, each telling a silent story of the past. We learned that whaling activities persisted on this island until 1931. These artifacts, now protected under the Antarctic Treaty, evidence the intricate dance between humanity and nature, preserving the continent’s history.

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

As the next morning rolled in, we geared up for another exciting Zodiac trip to Useful Island. Antarctic weather can be unpredictable, switching from bright and sunny to snowfall and rain in a matter of minutes. Luckily, we encountered a beautiful sunny day with just a hint of wind. This allowed us to capture some fantastic shots of mushroom-shaped icebergs and observe gentoo penguins in their nesting grounds. Gentoo penguins congregate in ice-free areas where they can hunt for fish and squid, performing elegant jumps as they dive into the water.

In the afternoon, we stepped onto the Antarctic continent, landing in Neko Harbor. Designated as an Important Bird Area (IBA), Neko Harbor is home to a gentoo penguin colony situated on the hilly terrain, away from the water’s edge, for nesting. In Antarctica’s treeless expanses, penguins construct nests on land using small stones. They travel between the water, where they swim and search for food, and their nests, where they care for their chicks. This regular movement gives rise to “penguin highways,” connecting their nesting areas to the water. Climbing up to a rocky perch at Neko Harbor, we were treated to a viewpoint showcasing glaciers and icebergs, which was undoubtedly one of the trip’s highlights.

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

The next day, despite waking up to rain and wind, our enthusiasm persisted as we headed toward Torgersen Island. This Zodiac tour allowed us to explore the island’s rugged terrain, gaining insights into the Antarctic flora. Although not thriving, it resiliently endures the harsh conditions, featuring various lichens, mosses, and algae that have adapted to the cold and arid climate. Around us, blue-eyed shags attempted to catch fish.

In the afternoon, we visited Palmer Station, a cutting-edge US scientific hub focused on climate change, seismic activity, and marine biology. A&K ensured that our experience went beyond wildlife sightings and scenic landscapes, offering an exclusive opportunity to engage with scientists about their daily routines and groundbreaking research.

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

When we visited Enterprise Island, we were greeted with sunshine and a fresh layer of snow. Aboard a Zodiac, we explored the remnants of the Guvernøren, an old Swedish whaling ship that now serves as a hangout for Antarctic birds. Pristine white glaciers blended effortlessly with the laid-back look of the abandoned ship, unfolding like an untold chapter in Antarctica’s story. Later in the day, our journey led us to our final touchdown on the continent at Portal Point, a narrow spot on the west end of the Antarctic Peninsula. We strolled through the snow, sinking our feet into a foot and a half of fluff. Wildlife sightings were low, but there were plenty of icebergs and glaciers to admire — nature’s own art exhibition.

Reflecting on an Abercrombie and Kent Antarctica cruise

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Photo: Reinier van Oorsouw

Our biggest takeaway from our Antarctic journey aboard Le Lyrial was that it seamlessly combined luxury and learning, revealing the beauty and challenges of the seventh continent. From stunning icebergs to insightful lectures, every moment on the ship was a window into Antarctica’s unique world. Traversing the Beagle Channel, crossing the Drake Passage, and stepping onto the continent provided a firsthand look at the delicate balance between preserving Antarctica’s natural beauty and addressing climate change.

Just as Dr. McClintock said during our cruise, our memories of penguins and glaciers also serve as inspiration to advocate for Antarctica’s preservation. Opting for an A&K expedition not only promises an unforgettable adventure but also a chance to contribute to safeguarding the seventh continent for future generations.

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