But that changes when I finalized a self-guided, two-week itinerary that included both the North and South islands, driving through the various wine regions so I can taste firsthand the pinot noirs, syrahs, and sauvignon blancs that I only knew about from working in wine stores in New York City.
It was a reporting trip planned with the country’s wine tourism board during New Zealand’s harvest season, set for March into April. But it was planned for the year 2020, and so everything was canceled for obvious reasons. Life happened. I moved to Denver and had two kids, resigning myself to the fact that, at least in the short term, leaving for two weeks and dropping that amount of money on travel were not in the cards for me.
The lawn at Amisfield Restaurant. Photo: Tourism Queensland/Miles Holden
I’d mostly blocked that disappointment from my memory in light of everything else going on. But looking back now, I’m realizing it’s always been in the back of my mind and really does deserve a spot on my list of dream trips. One day, I’m hoping to taste Hawke’s Bay’s serious syrahs and Martinborough’s pinot noirs and sauvignon blancs, visit Wellington’s urban wine bars, sample riesling and chardonnay in North Canterbury, and make it to Wairarapa and Central Otago for sparkling wine and pinot noirs.
If I were to do it now, I’d plan to arrive in the Southern Hemisphere’s early fall when the grapes are still being harvested and the leaves are turning. The trip would start on the North Island’s east coast, where Hawke’s Bay is one of the world’s most renowned wine capitals and has a restaurant scene to match. I’d include lunch, wine, and a vineyard stay at Craggy Range, along with chardonnay and small plates from around the region at Tony Bish’s Urban Winery in Napier’s National Tobacco Building. The coast calls me wherever I go, so naturally, sampling wine near the beach on the Te Awanga coastline is in order as well, and I wouldn’t mind enjoying a glass in the shadow of Te Mata Peak.
Hiking in Abel Tasman National Park. Photo: Tourism New Zealand
On the South Islanda, North Canterbury is known for its natural and organic wineries and limestone soil, particularly at Pegasus Bay winery and Black Estate vineyards. Basing myself in Christchurch at the centrally located (and very stylish) The George hotel would make it hard to keep going, so I’d probably spend at least a few days in that area. Knowing that I was making a final stop for pinot noir through Central Otago, one of the world’s southernmost wine regions, would eventually motivate me to keep going, though.
By the time I’d be able to even think about making this trip a reality again, some things would inevitably have to change. Vineyards may close, new producers may open or heck, even my taste in wines may change. And by the time I’m able to swing it, who knows: my now-young kids may be old enough to come along, too. Until then, I’ll keep dreaming.
