This Lake Como Hotel Boasts Northern Italy's Most Beautiful Gardens

But first, the gardens

Along with those at neighboring Villa Monastero, the botanical gardens at Hotel Villa Cipressi are one of Varenna’s defining tourist attractions. Every day between March and late October, eager day trippers sail across to Varenna from Bellagio, Menaggio, and Griante to inhale the blooms and snap the tree-lined terraces tumbling down to the shore. But – only hotel tenants get to experience the cypress trees and summer flowers at first light and after hours. Meanwhile, the hotel interiors remain off-bounds to non-residents.

This Italian oasis does get busy at the height of summer so you’ll welcome having them all to yourself outside of opening hours. A footpath winds its way to the sister property, the Hotel Royal Victoria by R Collection, where you’ll have a standing invitation to dine at any of the three restaurants and use the guest-only spa amenities.

Reservations are required to access the wellness center where up to two guests at a time may use the sauna, steam room, and relaxation den. With gardens, a private spa for hire, and million-dollar views at every angle, there’s no better spot for a romantic vacation on the lake than Hotel Villa Cipressi.

Rooms at the Hotel Villa Cipressi

Much like those at the Hotel Royal Victoria, rooms at Hotel Villa Cipressi are surprisingly contemporary and unfussy. Neutral color palettes create calmness and give way for the lake views and flora to steal the limelight. Guest comfort is prioritized and you can expect to sleep soundly tucked up in the cotton satin sheets with a light breeze wafting through the paned windows. Deluxe and Prestige rooms have outstanding lake views that justify the extra spend.

Suites at Hotel Villa Cipressi raise the bar. Book the Junior Suite Lago and enjoy a duplex unit with a sunny loft that doubles as a lounge or a second bedroom. The Garden Suite is accented by ancient brick walls and comes with a balcony and private sunbathing deck. It’s the little things that make the difference: all units are stocked with fluffy robes with suites having the added perk of a Nespresso coffee maker.

Breakfast on the lakeside

A continental buffet breakfast is laid out on the terrace of the oldest building at the Hotel Villa Cipressi. If you prefer to shelter from the sun, you can grab a table beneath the centuries-old timber beans. Breakfast is included in the nightly rate with the option to order cooked items off the menu at an additional cost. All other meals are served at the Hotel Royal Victoria, a two-minute walk through the property grounds. Ristorante Visteria has you covered for date night, the Victoria Grill is a casual spot for pizza while people-watching over the Old Town of Varenna, and an Aperol Spritz at Bar Giardino is worth the splurge.

You’ll find more variety in town. Start your evening with a cocktail on the patio at Bar Il Molo before wandering down the road to experience the flavors of Northern Italy. Restaurant reservations are recommended during the high season – the front desk will be happy to save you the trouble.

Getting to Varenna

Varenna is an attractive and convenient option for where to stay in Lake Como for non-drivers or as a sneaky overnighter from Milan. Direct trains from Milano Centrale take one hour and fifteen minutes to reach Varenna-Esino.

Two other lakeside towns, Bellagio and Menaggio, complete the Lake Como “Golden Triangle” and require a carriage change at the city of Como. Varenna is also accessible via ferry from the villages of Lake Como, making it easy to plan independent day trips to Bellagio, the Villa del Balbianello, and the Orrido di Bellano.

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