Photo: Mills House

Charleston's Iconic Pink Hotel Is Newly Revamped for the Modern Traveler

Epic Stays
by TJ Champitto Oct 10, 2024

There’s something special about Charleston, South Carolina. Spanish moss drips from the limbs of centuries-old oaks, and the ghosts of bygone eras wander the streets on cool evening breezes. As I step through the front doors of the historic Mills House hotel, I’m quickly reminded that all of the things that make Charleston special are perfectly captured within these walls. If only they could talk.

A historic property gets a modern redesign

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Photo: Mills House

Part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, the blush-hued Mills House is one of Charleston’s most beloved landmarks. Constructed by grain merchant Otis Mills, and designed by architect Jorh Earl, the hotel has been welcoming guests since 1853.

Since its construction, the Mills House has survived the destructive wrath of the Civil War, a decade of neglect in the early 1900s, and a 1968 reconstruction project that salvaged the hotel’s original ironworks and terra-cotta cornices. In 2022, the property underwent a multi-million-dollar renovation, and the results are absolutely stunning.

Upon entering the main lobby, my wife and I were welcomed by a subtle yet inspiring display of Old World charm and modern design. Hanging effortlessly above us — as if standing guard over the hotel’s collection of contemporary art — was an early 19th-century crystal chandelier, which I’m told was acquired from the historic Belle Meade Plantation in Nashville.

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Photo: Mills House

It had been several years since I was in South Carolina’s Lowcountry — and over a decade since my last stay at the iconic pink hotel — and I was immediately captivated by the results of its latest redesign. Every detail, from the light-filled lobby and timeless black accents to the chic new furniture and carefully curated decor, is as romantic as it is luxurious.

The renovations don’t stop there. Outside, visitors are welcomed by a garden-side courtyard which features a waterfall, bistro tables, and shade canopies. The guest rooms and premium suites have all been revamped with elegant furnishings, modern amenities, and original artwork by Southern artist Tracy Murrell. Other additions include a rooftop bar and pool surrounded by private cabanas, as well as two new eateries, headlined by the Iron Rose.

Cozy rooms, rooftop cocktails, and party packages at the Mills House

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Photo: Mills House

After a seamless check in, my wife and I were guided to the sixth floor, where a spacious Deluxe City View Room welcomed us with sweeping views of Charleston’s historic steeples and colorful gardens. Anchored by a plush king bed, the room includes everything you’ll need to recharge after a day of exploring. A flat-screen television rests against the wall beside a writing desk, the bathroom is beautifully finished, and hanging in the closet are a pair of soft, lush robes that inspire relaxation on a whole new level.

Once we settled in, my wife and I headed downstairs to Iron Rose, the hotel’s new restaurant and bar that’s brimming with Georgian architecture and a sophisticated ambiance. The menu was designed by head chef Gary Mennie, and while it evolves throughout the seasons, our nightly specials included a grilled 14-ounce ribeye with cipollini onion jus, as well as Virginia scallops served on citrus grits with lemongrass hollandaise.

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Photo: Mills House

We ordered a bottle of red wine, and at the recommendation of our waitress, delved into a fresh-baked focaccia bread and caprese salad. I ultimately decided on the grilled pork chops with butter bean succotash, a dish I’d order again if I saw it on the menu.

As our culinary journey came to a close, we ascended to The Terrace Bar for a rooftop cocktail. The energy there was romantically relaxed, and Charleston’s lights made for the perfect backdrop for a quiet evening.

The next morning, my wife and I ate breakfast at the Black Door Cafe just off the main lobby. The place feels cozy like a neighborhood coffee shop and the pastries, breakfast sandwiches, and coffee are among the best in town.

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Photo: Mills House

Afterward, we stepped outside, and I noticed something curious happening around the corner: a bachelorette party, with four young women piled into a pink, limited edition Nissan Figaro for a once-in-a-lifetime photoshoot.

The bride-to-be was beaming, and with an easy grin, I realized that this was a moment she’d never forget. When I asked the concierge about it later, I was told that it was part of the hotel’s “Pretty in Pink” Bachelorette Package, which includes Poolside Cabana Rooms, a welcome bottle of Veuve Clicquot, dinner at Iron Rose, and much more. The Mills House also hosts weddings, receptions, corporate events, and parties of all shapes and sizes.

Exploring Charleston from the Mills House’s prime location

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Photo: tokar/Shutterstock

The Mills House is ideally located within walking distance to some of Charleston’s most notable landmarks. After devouring our cappuccinos and chocolate-filled croissants, my wife and I embarked on a walking tour of the city with Bulldog Tours, which starts just outside of the hotel courtyard.

After a brief introduction, we made our way across Meeting Street to Washington Square and the historic cemetery of Saint Michael’s Church, which sits peacefully in the shadows of a massive steeple. From there, we wandered the cobblestone streets of the French Quarter before heading to Waterfront Park, where the remnants of Fort Sumter rest on the horizon above Charleston Harbor. We learned the story of Charleston’s role in the Civil War as our guide — a sharp, young historian named David — regaled us about the fearless determination and resilience of men like Robert Smalls and James L. Petigru.

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Photo: f11photo/Shutterstock

When our immersive two-hour tour came to an end, we decided to keep going. A light stroll along the famed Rainbow Row lead us to more iconic landmarks like the 19th-century Charleston City Market, the French Huguenot Church, and the Gibbes Museum of Art, which was only steps from our hotel and home to an impressive collection of exhibits, from 18th- and 19th-century American paintings to sculptures and ironworks.

As we circled back to the Mills House, we took some time to peruse the charming boutiques and storefronts of lower King Street, each with its own style of Southern charm. That’s how I’d describe our stay at the Mills House, too — utterly charming and authentically Charleston. I can’t wait to come back and do it all over again.

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