Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Edmonton in Alberta, Canada

My most recent trip to Edmonton took place during a December cold snap when temperatures plunged to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. Then came the snow and wind. But none of that put a damper on anything I experienced in the city. It may have made it feel even more vibrant (although those whose explorations are best fueled by warmth and sunshine will appreciate that temperatures can push to 80 degrees in the summer). Whatever the season, here’s where to go for the best of Edmonton.

The Neon Sign Museum

Photo: Ronnie Chua/Shutterstock

Sightseeing doesn’t get any easier than this. Simply look up at the red brick exterior warehouse wall to see the calling cards of the Princess Theatre, Georgia Baths, and, my personal favorite, the Canadian National Railway’s Freight Telegrams. It’s best to stroll by after dark to see this collaboration spearheaded by the city. The collection includes the first neon sign in Edmonton — Darling’s Drug Store in 1928 — and admission is free.

The Neon Sign Museum: 104 St NW, Edmonton, AB T5J 0K7, Canada

NHL Hockey at Rogers Place

Photo: Shel Zolkewich

I’ve been to a few National Hockey League games, and the arena atmosphere always gets my heart racing. But the vibe at the home of the Edmonton Oilers tops the list when it comes to fan fun. It’s most definitely a party atmosphere, with a brass band chiming in after goals and gifts being dropped by tiny drones into the stands.

In the expansive Ford Hall lobby area, a show-stopping public art installation called “Tsą tsą ke k’e” (“Iron Foot Place”) by the late Alex Janvier is a 45-foot diameter mosaic set in the floor. It highlights the colors of the sky and the land and mountains in the distance. The lighting above showcases the impressive architecture of the entire building.

With a capacity pushing 20,000, Rogers Place welcomes everyone. It’s fully accessible with elevator access to all seating levels, has a radio frequency assistive listening system, and offers sensory kits (as well as a quiet room) that can help reduce sounds and sights to a comfortable level.

Rogers Place: 10220 104 Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T5J 0H6, Canada

Explore 124th Street

It’s all about independence here on 124th Street. It’s plain to see in the murals that decorate exterior walls and the stride of the people who call this neighborhood home. We might even call it swagger. There are galleries galore, including the Bearclaw Gallery that features First Nations, Métis, and Inuit artists. It’s part of a Gallery Walk that packs it all into two tight blocks.

There are dozens of specialty fashion, accessory, and décor retailers on the street, including The Makers Keep, a collective that showcases made-in-Alberta goods that make perfect souvenirs.

And then there’s the food, anchored by Duchess Bake Shop, which has a perpetual line-up out the door during business hours. In 2015, the shop cracked Buzzfeed’s “23 Bakeries Around The World You Need To Eat At Before You Die” list, and the buzz hasn’t stopped. One bite into a classic croissant, and you’ll know why.

124th Street: 124 St, Edmonton, AB T5N 1R1, Canada

Royal Alberta Museum

Photo: Shel Zolkewich

It’s big, bright, and one of the most beautifully designed museums I’ve visited. First opened in 1967, the museum moved to its new home in 2018, where the first level is dedicated to human history, a massive children’s section, and a bug museum. There’s also the Museum Zone where the fascinating work of conservation happens in plain sight. The second level is all about natural history, and it’s there that the gem and mineral collection made my eyes sparkle. Rocks, minerals, meteorites, gems, and fossils from over 80 countries are on display in quantities that would impress diehard geology enthusiasts.

Royal Alberta Museum: 9810 103a Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T5J 0G2, Canada

Métis Crossing

Photo: Shel Zolkewich

A 90-minute drive northeast of Edmonton puts you near Smoky Lake, where it’s time for a deep dive into Indigenous culture at Métis Crossing. One of Canada’s three Indigenous peoples, the Métis are the result of post-contact unions between European fur traders and First Nations women. I hopped into an SUV for the Visions, Hopes, and Dreams Signature Experience here, where my group saw captive herds of elk and bison and Percheron horses as coyotes and crows crisscrossed our path. Along the way, we learned about the roles these animals play in Métis culture, specifically the community bison hunts that came with a seriously strict set of rules. At nightfall, I settled into my skywatching dome (where heated floor made it oh-so-cozy) and dreamt about eggs Benedict on bannock in the bistro the next morning.

Métis Crossing: 17339 Victoria Trail, Smoky Lake, Alberta, T0A 3C0, Canada

Indigenous Peoples Experience at Fort Edmonton

Photo: Shel Zolkewich

My group was joined by Mautouyipiyaki, or Speaking Sacred Words Woman, for our off-season tour of this space inside Fort Edmonton Park. The Elder was joined by Evert Poor, the park’s Indigenous Narratives Coordinator, and together, they took us on an immersion journey like no other. That’s how things work here — Indigenous people always lead the way, and this collection of stories and images came together after deep conversations. The space itself is a masterpiece of architecture and design, making visitors feel warm and embraced. The stories it holds are sometimes difficult but always authentic, coming directly from First Nations and Métis peoples. A standout of the space is the Métis cabin where a table is laid out with recipes and cookware, and the walls are adorned with family photos.

Indigenous Peoples Experience: Fort Edmonton Park, 7000 143 St NW, Edmonton, Alberta, T6H 4P3, Canada

Photo: Shel Zolkewich

Start your day at Tiramisu Bistro with the applewood smoked bacon crepe slathered in Hollandaise sauce with a vanilla latte on the side. Pop into the bakery next door, Lift Me Up, for a sweet treat, then saunter down the street and pick up snacks for later at Destination Doughnuts. I recommend the crème brulee and the white chocolate coconut. For lunch, Campio Brewing Company’s big menu is heavy on snacks and appetizers before getting serious with Detroit deep-dish pizzas and hefty burgers (plus a merch corner for easy souvenirs).

For a choose-your-favorite dinner, visit EPIC Market & Food Hall where five international cuisines dish out everything from a green papaya salad to bacon poutine. The two-level space has a bar on each floor with plenty of seating. It’s a good idea to make a reservation at RGE RD since its focus on local makes it a popular spot. Start with the gouda and potato perogies, a Scotch egg, and wood-oven baked bread. The bison main was the best I’ve ever had.

Photo: Shel Zolkewich

Celebrating Indigenous plates, Bernadette’s is an ode to grandmothers everywhere, where the menu is all about comfort. The creations arrive on vintage Royal Alberta china — Old Country Roses pattern, to be specific. Settle in under the stunning mural for ocheshishak (fried rice balls), elk carpaccio, and a sweet Saskatoon berry tart.

Home base for my recent Edmonton visit was the posh, yet completely practical, JW Marriott Edmonton ICE District, where location is everything. It’s connected to Rogers Place, making it a favorite for visiting athletes and entertainers. Among the highlights of this hotel is its signature handcrafted ice menu with six options for your choosing, delivered right to your door, free of charge. Will it be strawberry and blueberry or green olive and celery? And then there’s Alchemy Bar, a secret speakeasy concealed behind a bookcase on the fifth floor. Inside, buttery leather sofas and low lights welcomed me for a paper plane, a twist on a whisky sour.

JW Marriott Edmonton ICE District: 10344 102nd Street, Edmonton, Alberta, T5J 0K9, Canada

Photo: oasisamuel/Shutterstock

Like most Prairie cities, Edmonton is spread across the landscape, so getting from neighborhood to neighborhood is best done by vehicle or public transportation. But once you’re where you want to be, walking is a breeze. Edmonton Transit Service provides bus and light rail transit (LRT) services around the city.