Photo: Leslie Robinson

Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Richmond, VA, for Arts, Culture, and Black Excellence

Insider Guides
by Leslie Robinson Oct 29, 2024

On the first Friday of every month in Richmond, Virginia, the art galleries on Broad Street open to the public so that everyone can celebrate the city’s creatives. That’s one example of how deep the arts run in Richmond, where you’ll also find murals painted on historic brick buildings across town and a variety of museums and monuments honoring the city’s Black culture.

The motto “Virginia is for Lovers” is evident through the love and reverence that Richmond’s residents have for the city’s Black culture. Nowhere is this more evident than the Jackson Ward neighborhood, whose 2nd Street was historically known as Black Wall Street 20 years before Tulsa, Oklahoma, claimed the title. During its heyday, there were five Black banks, seven Black-owned insurance companies, and 300 thriving Black-owned businesses. At once bustling with music, art, and creativity, the neighorhood was also known as the “Harlem of the South.”

Today, murals throughout the area honor Jackson Ward’s contributions to Richmond at large. Here’s where to see those works and more.

Cultural things to do in Richmond, VA

Maggie L. Walker National Historic Site

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Photo: Leslie Robinson

Maggie Lena Walker was a Black businesswoman and the first woman to open a bank in the US. Before starting the St. Luke Penny Savings Bank, she was a teacher, started an insurance company, and was the editor of the St. Luke Herald. Walker was born on July 15, 1864, to enslaved parents but died a prominent Southern businesswoman. Her primary residence is now a National Historic Site, with over 90 percent of the details original to when she lived there.

The front parlor has two fireplaces, golden cornice boards, gilded crown molding, and chandeliers with ornate golden medallions. Walker also had a library with a wall full of books and installed an elevator in the rear of the house when she became wheelchair-bound so that she could access her upstairs bedroom. An example of Black excellence before the term was coined, Walker used her home as a way to motivate others that homeownership was attainable — over a century later, the property continues to inspire during the site’s daily tours.

Maggie L. Walker National Historic Site:600 N 2nd St, Richmond, VA 23219

Walking the Ward with Gary Flowers

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Photo: Leslie Robinson

Raised in Jackson Ward, Gary Flowers is a Harvard professor and a Richmond Region Tourism-certified Ambassador Guide. His 20-stop tours tell the story of the historically Black Jackson Ward neighborhood, visiting points of interest like Maggie Walker’s home and the Bill “Bojangles” Robinson statue honoring the dancer and actor most popular for his dance scene with Shirley Temple. Throughout the tour, which starts at the Black History Museum and Cultural Center of Virginia, Flowers is passionate and honest in his account of Richmond’s history.

Walking the Ward with Gary Flowers: Various

Street art in downtown Richmond

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Photo: Leslie Robinson

Throughout downtown Richmond and the surrounding areas, colorful murals put a spotlight on the artistic and historic richness of the city — so much so that it seems like there’s a brick wall covered with bright colors and inspiration on every corner. My two favorite murals were the “Greetings from Richmond, VA” postcard (a digital postcard leaves a great carbon footprint) and “Together We Rise,” honoring people who’ve died at the hands of police officers.

Quirk Gallery

Originally erected as the J.B. Mosby & Co. Dry Goods Store in 1916 and renovated in 2005, the Quirk Hotel is more than just a trendy place to stay in Richmond — it also has a fully functioning art gallery. The well-lit gallery off the main lobby features a permanent collection of whimsical, often craft-like artworks, as well as rotating art exhibitions. Visitors are welcome to come and peruse or even purchase a souvenir, thanks to the hotel’s boutique shop.

Quirk Hotel: 201 W Broad St, Richmond, VA 23220

2nd Street Festival

This annual two-day festival (typically held in early October) highlights the culture of the Jackson Ward community, once known as “the Harlem of the South.” The free, kid-friendly event provides a weekend filled with live music, artwork, and food and craft vendors, as well as an antique car show. You’ll see attendees engaging in any number of community-centric activities — from dancing in the street, to learning line dances, to reconnecting with neighbors — but mostly, it’s about enjoying positive vibes all day long.

2nd Street Festival: Jackson Ward, Richmond, VA 23220

First Fridays

The first Friday night of each month, local art galleries on Broad Street open their doors to the public for free. Some galleries have musicians performing outside, and the evening is a great way to enjoy artwork from local and national artists on a budget.

First Fridays: Broad St, Richmond, VA 23220

MySelfies

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Photo: Leslie Robinson

This is a Black-owned selfie studio in the heart of downtown Richmond. I met the owner while I wandered through downtown as he helped a young boy find his grandmother in the true spirit the Richmond community. Choose from a variety of backdrops and props for your Insta moment — including sports, a neon heart, or a 1990s hip-hop magazine background — and snap a digital souvenir of your time in Richmond.

MySelfies: 12 West Broad St, Richmond, VA 23220

Where to eat and drink in Richmond, VA

Mama J’s Kitchen

Unsuspecting and homey, Mama J’s Kitchen is a staple for Richmond locals, and Mama J herself is still active in the day-to-day operations. The restaurant’s fried chicken won the 2024 Richmond Times Dispatch Fried Chicken March Madness contest. I’m trying to eat better, so I ordered the baked chicken, mac and cheese, and collard greens while my lunch buddy ordered the very generously portioined fried catfish. We were seated right in front of “the living room,” a memorial to Mama J’s parents that doubled down on the love in the room.

Mama J’s: 415 North 1st St, Richmond, VA 23219

Lillie Pearl

Owned by Chef Michael Lindsey and his wife, Kimberly Love-Lindsey, this restaurant pays homage to Lindsey’s grandmothers. “Chef Mike” infuses his North Carolina roots with West African ingredients and modern cooking techniques. I ordered the crispy skin salmon in a lemon ginger sauce. It was delicious, and the atmosphere was inviting and enjoyable, with R&B music playing low in the background. I knew Lillie Pearl was my kind of restaurant when Jill Scott’s “The Way” played and a large party all sang out “grits!’ right on cue.

Lillie Pearl: 416 E. Grace St, Richmond, VA 23219

Blue Habanero

A lot of restaurants close early in Richmond, but this one stays open until 11 PM on weekends. I stopped in for a late-night bite and ordered the chicharones and el pastor tacos — both were delicious. Blue Habanero also has a tequila bar that would make any aficionado happy.

Blue Habanero: 421 Strawberry St, Richmond VA 23220

92 Chicken

92 Chicken is a fast-casual spot located right across the street from the Quirk Hotel. The chain specialized in Korean-style friend chicken (that stays crisp for hours, no less). I grabbed wings and fries, and they came out perfectly without having to ask for them to be fried hard. The menu will expand to include boba tea soon, as well.

92 Chicken: 200 W Broad St, Richmond, VA 23220

Curry’s Southern Caribbean Cuisine and Bar

I stopped into this restaurant on a whim during the 2nd Street Festival. At the entrance, African masks were on display and available for sale. There’s both a Guyanese and a Jamaican chef in the kitchen, guaranteeing that both types of Caribbean food are cooked to perfection. I ordered the oxtails, cabbage, and mac and cheese — while mac and cheese from Caribbean restaurants is never my personal favorite, and this one was no exception, the oxtails and cabbage were well-seasoned and tender. Curry’s also has a full bar, and the sorrel rum punch is a perfect balance of strong, tart and sweet.

Curry’s: 119 E Leigh St, Richmond, VA 23219

Where to stay in Richmond, VA

Quirk Hotel

The Quirk Hotel is conveniently located in downtown Richmond, just a few blocks from Virginia Commonwealth University. The juxtaposition of exposed brick with cheeky pale pink and gold artwork gives guests an early taste of the hotel’s attention to design detail. Even something as mundane as storage is aesthetic as well as functional here — instead of having a dresser, for example, drawers are built into a bench, offering seating and storage at once. My room was spacious and well maintained, with cleaning available daily. The hotel is also eco-friendly, providing refillable water carafes and reverse osmosis water fountains on each floor.

Downstairs, the Lobby Bar restaurant offers a variety of different global fare, including spanakopita dip, grilled cauliflower, pasta dishes, and a New York strip steak dinner for two that includes a side and dessert for $85. Breakfast ranging from French toast to a bacon, egg, and cheese croissant is also available at the Lobby Bar, while the hotel’s Q Rooftop Bar opens for a 180-degree view of Richmond, creative cocktails, and quick bites at 5 PM every day.

Quirk Hotel: 201 W Broad St, Richmond, VA 23220

Getting to and around Richmond, VA

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Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

My ride to Richmond from Surf City, North Carolina, was surprisingly quick and easy. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 8 PM. If you’re coming from farther afield or simply prefer to fly, the Richmond International Airport (RIC) hosts nine airline carriers, including budget airlines like Breeze, Spirit, and Allegiant.

Once you’re in Richmond, It’s easy to get around town. There were a variety of restaurants, art galleries, bars, and points of interest within walking distance from the Quirk Hotel. The city bus also runs down Broad Street, a hub of the city’s arts and culture. I walked most of the time, but rideshares were affordable and timely, as well. However you get around Richmond, enjoy the city’s historic Italian Renaissance architecture and bright-colored murals as you go.

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