I set myself a challenge on a recent trip to Vietnam: go as far north as physically possible. This took me to Ha Giang province — pronounced ha zang — which is seriously remote. Viewed on a map, it protrudes into China’s Yunnan province like a nosy neighbor spying over the top of a garden fence. It’s the least visited of Vietnam’s provinces, having been the last to open to tourists. Described in some guidebooks as Vietnam’s final frontier of travel, I knew I had to see just how far I could make it. This is my journey to the rural North of Vietnam.