Photo and Feature Photo:quinn.anya

Sometimes we don’t realize how much we value our notion of personal space until we live abroad.

Before travel, I never realized how little I like to be touched.

Sure, hugs are fine. I don’t even mind a cramped car ride or overstuffed elevator. I thought that in terms of physical contact, my comfort zone was average.

Last year, I learned my limit.

In Turkey, even in the thick heat of an Istanbul summer, my ESL students would greet each other with earnest hugs and kisses. I do the same, if I haven’t seen a person for a while, but this was an everyday event, the Turkish equivalent of my North American eye-contact-and-nod greeting. Here, bodies were always getting close. I didn’t like it one bit, especially in the summertime of bare skin and perpetual sweat.

You could sniff in an instant your friends’ last cigarette or kebab lunch. Definitely not the stuff of a good student-teacher relationship, in my books.

It wasn’t just the sweat factor, of course. It was the kissing too. All that kissing! One cheek and then the other, the two faces weaving dangerously close, the noses almost touching. You could study your friends’ pores if you wanted to. You could sniff in an instant your friends’ last cigarette or kebab lunch. Definitely not the stuff of a good student-teacher relationship, in my books.

Some students would embrace me as they would any teacher. I know they could sense my body stiffening as my head whipped around, trying to get it over with. I wanted to return this amiable gesture somehow. I would try to offer closeness the ol’ Canadian way; cracking jokes, asking questions, giving compliments. The more I opened up verbally, the more daily embraces came my way.

How do you greet people in Canada? They asked. I demonstrated a wave, a nod, a handshake, knowing full well that it seemed comparatively frosty. The conversation that ensued sounded like a teenage boy trying to goad his girlfriend to first base. So, what about kissing? Not even a little? But it’s nice to kiss someone, it shows love. Have you tried it? You should try it. You might like it.

I knew my resistance was more personal than cultural. Though we aren’t a huggy bunch in Canada, I knew many North Americans who could adapt to this Turkish custom. I would see expat friends on the street and in cafes, greeting their friends with smacking kisses. It was a small adaptation for me to make, but it just wouldn’t sit right.

I would talk about it with other teachers after class, rattling off excuses.

“It’s summer! Everyone sweats! I’m smelly, they’re smelly.”

“It blurs the teacher/student divide, I can’t grade the exam of someone I hug daily!”

“How about a compromise? I’ll only do it with females, and they have to be over a certain age or it feels weird. Eighteen? Nineteen?”

I sounded obsessive, fixating on this tiny cultural difference, this hiccup in what was otherwise a fine, friendly relationship with a lovely group of people.

I tried to make a lesson out of it, a teaching point coming out of cultural difference. We read articles on personal space, we talked about physical contact in different cultures: the handshake, the bow, the hug, different forms of the same sentiment. The class took to the information with interest, but in my case, it all felt like excuses.

“But in Japan, they just bow!” I’d say, textbook in hand like a flimsy white flag. I was desperately justifying my stiff hug while a kind Turkish student stood before me, looking confused. Their past English teachers had done it. Their foreign friends did it.

But why? Why don’t Canadians like to touch? I could see them turning the logic over and over in their minds, trying to decipher this stubborn fact. It’s cold there, you should be touching more than us, keeping warm!

“We don’t dislike it, we just don’t do it so often.” To my students, this was the epitome of frigidity. To them, constant physical contact was as natural as breathing. One day, a quiet businessman in the class piped up. “No wonder Canada has a small population,” he said, “you can’t make babies if you don’t touch your wife!”

And that, thankfully, was when tension gave way. My anti-embracing became another class joke, the way Emre was always late, or Bashak’s nose was always buried in her Turkish-English dictionary. Each day, someone would jokingly lean, and I would play up my part with rigid shoulders and bulgling eyes. It paved the way to more discussions about Canada, Turkey, and their differences.

Months after the class ended, I ran into some of my former students at a cafe. There, hugs were exchanged, and each one was sincere.

Community Connection

Have you ever realized the differences in personal space or greetings while traveling or living abroad? Share your experiences in the comment section.

Culture + Religion
 

About The Author

Anne Merritt

Anne Merritt has lived in Canada, Europe, and Asia. She teaches ESL, writes, haggles, hikes, and wears sunscreen fanatically. Her work has appeared in The Globe and Mail, GoOverseas.com, and The Compass. Check out her blog.

  • Heather Carreiro

    Loved this piece Anne! I could picture you with your textbook trying to justify your disdain for sweaty hugs. : )

    It took me a while to get used to all the touching in Moroccan greetings. What would really throw me off is that after you shake hands, you often continue holding hands lightly while talking. I’d always be thinking about my hand, wondering when the other person was going to let go and what I should do. I just kind of let my hand stay there limply.

    When coming back from Pakistan to the US I had the opposite issue. I felt strange when men would shake my hand or offer a hug, and this has led to some awkward situations. Just last month this older man reached out to shake my hand, and because I just wasn’t expecting it (even though I’ve been back for a year in the states) I didn’t put my hand out. His hand just hung in the air and I didn’t notice it until he withdrew it! I felt terrible, but I made sure to shake his hand at the end of the conversation.

  • http://www.deliciouschaos.com Nick

    Sweet piece, Anne, and can totally related to this. I’m quite a tactile person, from a tactile group of mates back in London. So here in Egypt it’s a gender thing I had to get used to. It’s the men I hug and kiss (and as Heather says, you often end up holding hands for a while) whereas with women it’s often just a handshake.

    It gets tricky sometimes. I have some Egyptian female friends that it’s fine for me to kiss in greeting… depending on the company and who’s observing! And some foreign women who I used to kiss in greeting and then married into the culture I can no longer greet the same way… so I shake their hand and kiss their husband instead! It’s fine, but it does still feel strange.

    And I understand why you’d be uncomfortable being too familiar with your students in the classroom – I think it’s important to maintain that teacher-student distinction. Outside, of course, is a different matter.

  • http://thesegoldenhours.blogspot.com/ maya

    what an eye-opening piece! i had no idea that turkey was that “touchy” of a culture; it just makes me want to go there even more :)

  • Matt K.

    Fascinating insight here.

    Both my parents are Polish, so I know how awkward it can be to kiss and hug both male and female relatives.

    To be honest, I still can’t get used to it. Growing up in the U.S. provides kids with a whole different set of cultural cues, even if their parents (like mine) incorporate native ways of life into everyday situations.

    I only realized this after a family trip back to Eastern Europe where I ended up standing awkwardly, trying to follow everyone else’s lead as we greeted one another. Now, with an upcoming study trip to Spain, I’m going to have to brush up on my Euro-greeting skills. Maybe I’ll feel more normal with it this time…

  • http://matadortravel.com/traveler/evasandoval EvaSandoval

    Ah, touching … literally. How I relate to this!

    My parents are from Italy and Guatemala, but I grew up in America. I’ve never been huge on physical contact with strangers to begin with, so each time I visited my father’s family in Guate – where the custom is to kiss on the cheek upon meeting someone, even if for the first time – I shuddered each time I was introduced to someone new. As my father’s Italian grandmother complained when visiting: In Guatemala, they gave me more kisses than a statue of St. Peter.

    Why, I always asked myself, must I kiss complete strangers? What’s wrong with a nice, firm handshake? Crisp. Elegant. Warm, with a proper sense of remove. As a teenager, I once indulged my fear of the dreaded “pleased to meet you” kiss and ducked a pair of lips by offering a hand; the look of hurt shock on the random stranger’s face shamed me thoroughly and afterward, I forced myself to make the When in Guatemala effort.

    At 30, I’ve learned to accept it, even embrace it. I will admit, though, that each time I meet someone new in Guatemala and see them coming for me, a tiny little voice inside of me shrieks: “Slow down, buddy! Buy me dinner, first….”

  • http://annemerritt.blogspot.com Anne M

    It’s nice to know so many people can relate.

    Eva, I’ve had the exact same thought pop into my head whenever a kissing situation comes up; “buy a girl dinner first…”

  • http://www.driftersblog.com/ Pastore Riel

    Great article! I’m actually on the opposite, having to learn how to limit my desire to hug and kiss strangers!

    Although I am American, I grew up in Hawaii, where the expected greeting between strangers and even more so between friends is a hug and kiss on one cheek. This is obligatory, lest you be looked at as rude and distant, which translates as “I think I am better than the other person.” Not that that’s what you’re thinking, but that’s what it puts off to the Hawaiian person. In fact, as a teenager, entering a room without properly greeting others with a hug and kiss would get me looks of “Who do you think you are?” from my peers, and verbal chastisement or even a slap on the back of my head from my elders. Physical contact is not only accepted, but expected. WHY? Because to the Hawaiian psyche, it is disrespectful not to do so.

    Fast forward to my life now in East-Asia: Here there is very limited body contact, handshakes are exchanged between men, and although this is also becoming increasingly acceptable for women, as a man I’ve learned it’s best to let the woman initiate. This is not easy to adapt to for someone who feels like they’re obligated to give a hug and kiss upon meeting someone, even a stranger. My first instinct is to grab them firmly by the hand, pull them in for a warm embrace and give them a big kiss on the cheek, but believe me, that WOULD NOT go well here in Asia. WHY? Because it is very disrespectful to do so.

    Personally, I’ve learned that it’s more about how others view it than how I see it myself. After all, I am the one who left behind the familiar to discover the unknown. So I kiss and hug strangers when I go back to Hawaii, and shake hands or give a polite nod to associates when I’m home in Taiwan.

  • Smilla Snow

    Being Turkish, this article really cracked me up :) At the mo, my colleague sitting next to me is reading, too (I forwarded the link to her) and can see the grin on her face. :)

  • http://hannahinmotion.wordpress.com Hannah In Motion

    I always have mixed feelings about non-North American greetings. There inevitably comes a time in my adjustment period where I just want to scream at people when I’m leaving the room – “I’ll be back tomorrow! This is NOT necessary!” But then I get home and not kissing and hugging (and kissing and hugging…) people seems so distant and I wonder why it all ever bugged me in the first place.

    Thanks, Anne from Hannah (also in Turkey) :)

  • Emma W

    This observant article reminds me of my time in Spain, where there is also less personal space and blatant heckling on the streets!

  • Bee

    Anne, I couldn’t agree more with your observations. I was born and raised in Istanbul and moved to the U.S. when I was a teen, I got so accustomed to my suburban north american waves and hellos from distances! I didn’t realize how different it had been in Istanbul until I visited my family. Aunts and uncles were squeezing my face until my teeth hurt and my cheeks nearly bruised, as if I were still 12. People I would meet who were just friends of friends would greet me with kisses on the cheek and hugs. It threw me off! I had forgotten how it was. I made some Latin American friends in college here in the US, and every time they greet me in that similar warm way with hugs and touches, I try to remember a bit more of my younger days when I was used to such greets. I understand why it can seem distant to others as people have already commented, but I’ve also gotten used to all this personal space in the U.S. But I’m sure people who read this comment from the east coast, somewhere like New York, would tell me that in the west coast people are not touchy enough. Or perhaps the opposite? I haven’t traveled enough to find out yet.

  • http://www.tunaozcan.com Tuna Ozcan

    touching s the main theme. show some love :) ). it s cuz we are warm people.

    it s like :
    a- man to man : handshakes and kissing (some people hit head :) ) )
    b- with a lady : just kissing no handshakes.
    handshaking mean s that you are showing that you not the enemy and kissing mean is that you are sincere.

    when i was in Azerbaijan it was strange for me . they kiss once we kiss twice. and it s not nice to touch a lady when you are greeting. btw Thanks God i m not living in Canada :) )).

  • http://wandersofmediocrity.blogspot.com Nedemgirl

    Great article. For me this was the exact thing that made me fixated with the Turkish culture. I just like that sort of closeness.

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