Previous Next

The Aztec Calendar / Photo: Jungle Boy

Once reserved only for Aztec royalty, the origin of chocolate weaves a mysterious (and delicious) web throughout history.

“Black gold,” as chocolate has been called, has a control over a majority of Westerners.

It’s always in the back of one’s mind, or in the front of one’s mind when obtaining some becomes more acute. Everyone has a specific craving, whether it be pure, refined, mixed, primed, or blended, but we all have experiences of one kind or another with the stuff.

I, for one, enjoy my chocolate mixed with nuts or berries, and I’m more partial to dark than milk, but I can’t recall ever refusing chocolate.

Given my enjoyment, I was surprised to learn that chocolate’s current form is far removed from its origins as a drink of the gods, a nectar in the literal sense, of the Aztecs called xoxocatl.

Award-winning professor Michael D. Coe of Yale University writes in his book, The True History of Chocolate that the first tangible evidence of chocolate consumption originates in mid-fifth century CE.

Yet emerging linguistic evidence suggests that the Olmec, a Central American civilization that predates the Aztec and the Maya before them, were not unaccustomed to the plant and its possibility for creating a beverage.

Food of the Gods

The origin of chocolate, according to Aztec legend, states that Quetzalcoatl brought the plant to Earth from heaven, not unlike Promentheus bringing fire to man, after man and woman, in a sacred garden not unlike Eden, attempted to steal the knowledge and power of the gods.

Photo: jubilohaku

Because Quetzalcoatl considered their banishment from the garden too harsh a punishment, he gifted them chocolate.

Carl Linnaeus, founder of the modern classification system of all living things (taxonomy), clearly had this legend in mind when he named the plant Theobroma cacao, meaning ‘food of the gods’.

As is so often the case with something reported to have come from the gods, royalty was interested in its consumption.

Aztec king Montezuma was reported to have drank the beverage from golden goblets that were only holy enough for chocolate to be used once. The fact is opulent enough, but it was reported that for him to drink more than twenty-five glasses per diem was not uncommon.

Aztecs often used cocoa beans as a currency. During a 1514 voyage to the New World Hernando de Oviedo y Valdez, a member of Pedro Arias Dávila massive 1500-men expedition, wrote in his journal claiming that four beans could buy a rabbit dinner, ten was standard price for a night with a prostitute, and he himself bought a slave for the price of one hundred cocoa beans.

Arrival In The West

From the Age of Exploration, chocolate entered into Western culture. While exact etymology is moot, it is clear that Europeans first came into contact with chocolate, or rather the cacao bean, via the Spanish, via the Mexico, via the Aztec, at the dawn of the sixteenth century.

Chocolate was again the drink the of elite, the delight of the plebeians, the bitterest of potables, the most saccharine of sweets, the iconic symbol of Mesoamerica.

Chocolate was again the drink the of elite, the delight of the plebeians, the bitterest of potables, the most saccharine of sweets, the iconic symbol of Mesoamerica.

In A Tale of Two Cities Dicken’s shows the transitional period of chocolate, between Mesoamerican luxury to the European commoners’ pleasure, when he explains with great detail Monseigneur’s elaborate consumption of chocolate in his Paris hotel room.

In Europe—during the time of the novel, and even before—the price of chocolate was a luxury because it had to be brought across the Atlantic ocean before it could be consumed.

The ceremonial aspect of the drink was, in some convoluted way, preserved when it entered into the Catholic Church. Whilst electing a new Pope, the College of Cardinals meeting in Concalve used to sip the beverage. And European royalty enjoyed the beverage as Aztec royalty had before them.

A New Renaissance

It was not until 1828 when chocolate changed from a sacred drink to a solid bar we know today, through the addition of cocoa butter.

Not only did chemist Coenraad Johannes van Houten of the Netherlands create the process of manufacturing cocoa butter, but he also discovered how to treat chocolate with alkalis to remove the bitter taste that had until that point been characteristic of chocolate.

While the addition of chilli had long since been dropped from the recipes by Europeans, vanilla was often retained, along with milk and sugar, the latter being unavailable to the Aztecs.

Thus, chocolate as we know and love came into existence after several thousand years of being consumed in liquid form with a pungent, bitter taste.

It’s interesting to note that producers of chocolate are experimenting even further, by adding not just sugar and milk but chilli, lavender, mint, and other flavours.

Some producers are even selling it with bitterness intact, giving all who love chocolate something to look forward to: new forms, new uses, new tastes, all continually inspired by its divine origins.

Further Reading:

  • Chocolate: A Bittersweet Saga of Dark and Light by Mort Rosenblum – an anecdotal exploration of chocolate and the world of professional chocolatiers
  • Chocolate: Pathway to the Gods by Meredith L. Dreiss and Sharon Edgar Greenhill – both photo book and history guide the book explains the origins of the foodstuff and delves into the symbolic nature of chocolate as the Mesoamericans saw it
  • The True History of Chocolate, Second Edition by Sophie D. Coe and Michael D. Coe – a definitive guide to the history of chocolate ranging from its ceremonial origins to modern day consumption
  • Chocolate: A Global History (Edible) (Edible) by Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch – a history of chocolate, from the Edible series, dealing with the usages of chocolate by the Maya as a stand-in for blood during ceremonies through to the modern age of mass-production in Europe and America

What do you think of the cultural history of chocolate? Share your stories in the comments!

Culture + Religion

 

About The Author

J. Raimund Pfarrkirchner

J. Raimund Pfarrkirchner has traveled through North and South America extensively and lived, for a time, in Nepal. He recently finished his first book about the culture and religion of Nepal and the Himalaya regions. He currently lives in the capital of his native Austria, Vienna.

  • http://www.tvrotsyourmindgrapes.com/ Marissa

    Wow, I’m not a chocolate fan but that was rather interesting. I’d rather read about it than eat it!

  • http://meganahill.wordpress.com Megan Hill

    Depressingly enough, most chocolate today is highly refined–Hershey’s and other big chocolate producers can make more money on selling the cocoa butter to cosmetics companies and replacing it with processed crap. It’s a perversion of the real thing, and it’s really, really bad for you.

    For really amazing chocolate (with cocoa butter!), you can find Theo Chocolate (http://www.theochocolate.com) in most Whole Foods stores–it’s organic and fair trade, too!

  • http://www.InnTheKitchen.com Rachelle

    wow. if I needed to find a reason to have some chocolate today … I just found it. now I gotta go satisfy a craving … think I’ll try the Theo Chocolate! :o)

  • http://www.comfluencecreativemedia.com joshywashington

    I enjoy all of your posts, Mr. J. Raimund Pfarrkirchner, I enjoy your intelligence and wit and subject matter. Thank you for contributing.
    As a man with more than a few cavities that he cannot afford to have treated I must refrain from this particular epicurean delight, but I enjoyed this piece immensely.

  • http://therecessends.com Austin

    just reading the words “nectar of the gods,” sounds amazing.

  • Jill

    Good piece! And speaking of ‘piece’, I hear a piece of Lindt Creation 70% Orange calling me…

  • http://musictravelwrite.wordpress.com Michelle

    Theo chocolage = amazing.

    The best chocolate I’ve ever had was in Brazil- made by a Bahiana who took the beans right out of the cacao, mashed and mixed with brown cane sugar. Doesn’t get much more raw than that.

    Great article!

  • http://www.huevosalamexicana.com Sarah Menkedick

    Here in Oaxaca you can watch the cocoa beans being ground into chocolate at the market, and you can buy a chocolate milkshake made with warm, freshly ground chocolate. I’m not normally a chocolate fan (vanilla, on the other hand…) but MY OH MY is it profoundly delicious. And absolutely not even close to the chocolate you find in most other places.

  • Valenciana en UK

    A really delicious, hand-made chocolate I’ve had and look forward to having again soon, comes from a tiny family business called Chocolates Comes, in Sueca, Valencia Province in Spain… and as they only use a bit of rice flour, instead of the mostly used wheat variety, it’s perfectly OK for people with wheat intolerance conditions…

    Very interesting too visiting the little factory house with all the gadgets and having the old man who owns/runs it explaining all those interesting facts to the children (and adults). Mind you, the best are the different free samples… yum yum!

  • Laurie P.

    If it was good enough for the gods, it certainly is good enough for me!! Interesting article. At least now you can find some really good minimally processed chocolates in America – and more foreign chocolates are being sold here. I looking forward to trying Theo chocolate – I can’t believe there is a chocolate out there I haven’t tried!!

The construction workers also like to blast Punjabi pop on crackling radios during their...
It is an evocation of a long-dead past, but a past that defines the Peruvian national...
Project Explorer is a nonprofit organization that produces free, online travel series for...
Things can get lost in translation when a typical gesture from your country means...
The first time it happened to me, I thought it was a fluke - a creative cashier with...
Get your cremains pressed into vinyl. Why be scattered when your family's eardrums could...
During the season of the dead, Christine Garvin uses ritual to try and understand a bit...
When you stop to ask yourself what homeless people spend money on, why not ask yourself...
Art Deco movie palaces, futuristic big screens, movies on the roof, and in a cemetery.
Living overseas often teaches us surprising things about our own cultures.
Unlike the San Diego psychic who conformed to my gypsy oracle stereotype, Mr. Furuda wore...
MatadorU travel writing grad and boat captain Mike Collins has a few words for BP's CEO.
Snapshots of the Dominican Republic.