I woke up to the gag-inducing smell of nicotine drifting in through the open door of my tiny rented campervan.
Groggy, I rolled over and looked outside hopefully, but was met with the same morning scene as I had been the past two days: a panoramic volcanic landscape stretching off into the dreary mists that hung over Skaftafell National Park, punctuated only by the cigarette smoke emitted by my surly Australian travelmate. I groaned and tried to snuggle back into my sleeping bag — the southern Icelandic weather was as bleak as ever. Judging off my stay so far, the land of fire and ice looked a lot more like the land of poor visibility and intermittent precipitation.