1. Japchae hotteok — Namdaemun
Over by Namdaemun Gate 2 is the city’s famous hotteok food cart; it’s so popular the owner’s said to be a millionaire.
Hotteok is normally leavened flour filled with sugar, cinnamon, and nuts then fried till it becomes a delicious caramel donut, and the owner here does the dessert version well, but her most popular recipe sees sesame-soy sweet glass noodles, carrots, and spinach stuffed inside the donut then basted with a fruit-seasoned soy sauce. I know, sounds odd, but just try it.