1. Bar Mancera

A great shabby-genteel venue with domino-slapping regulars by day; some nights go late and the hip kids come in.
Venustiano Carranza 49; 5521 9755; open daily 10 am-8 pm.

2. La Ópera

Look for the legendary Pancho Villa bullet hole amid splendid belle-époque appointments. Strolling musicians make up in romance what they lack in strict musical training.
5 de Mayo 10, at Filomeno Mata; 5512 8959; barlaopera.com; Mon-Sat 1 pm-12 am, Sun 1 pm-6 pm.

3. Pasagüero

Divey and very fun, with loud, live music — mostly rock and alternative vibes — plus an edgy crowd that’s not as world-weary as it looks.
Motolinía 33; 5521 6112; Thurs-Sat 9 pm-3 am.

4. Salón París

Soak up this neighborhood cantina whose art deco authenticity would pass muster with the hippest of Brooklynites.
Torres Bodet 152 at Salvador Díaz Mirón, Colonia Santa María la Ribera; 5547 3710; Mon-Fri 11 am-12 am; Sat 10:30 am-7 pm, Sun 11 am-6 pm.

5. Tío Pepe

Banged up belle-époque with patrons ranging from hipsters to lounge lizards. A far cry from 
swank but all are welcome.
Independencia 26; 5521 9136; Mon-Thurs 12 pm-10 pm, Fri 12 pm-11 pm, Sat 12 pm-9:30 pm.

6. Zinco Jazz Club

Elegant and intimate, like something from an old movie. Make reservations if someone big is playing.
Motolinía 20; 5512 3369; zincojazz.com; Wed-Sat 9 pm-2 am.

By Travesías.