DATO DOESN’T BULLSHIT. He was our guide and our friend. A village chief and a former champion at the Pasola fist-fighting matches. I loved and feared him equally. And when I asked him why all Marapu men wear swords in their belts, his answer made my throat go dry.
“It is useful for opening coconuts or for cutting off another man’s head,” he said without a hint of bravado.