I Watched Whales From My Balcony at This Clifftop Hotel in Bermuda

Azura Bermuda opened in 2020 on the South Shore in Warwick Parish, on the site of the former Surf Side Beach Club. The property sits on top of white limestone cliffs that fall straight down to a private beach, with the Atlantic below shifting from pale aquamarine near the shore to a deeper blue out beyond the reef.

The hotel has 55 rooms, suites, and villas, and sits just a 10-minute drive from Hamilton — the island’s small but lively capital that gets noticeably busier when cruise ships are in port. On arrival, I was handed a rum swizzle, Bermuda’s signature cocktail made with Gosling’s rum, citrus juices, and bitters. Refreshing, with a subtle kick, it made it hard to do anything other than drop my bags and head straight for the pool. Through the lobby windows, palm trees swayed against a slice of blue water, and for a moment, it was hard to comprehend that the whole trip, door to door, had taken less than three hours.

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What it’s like to stay at Azura Bermuda

When I opened the door to my Oceanfront Room, the Atlantic was right there — framed by floor-to-ceiling glass and a balcony directly above the water. White walls and neutral tones ran through the space, with soft blues and pale wood echoing the color of the ocean outside. Even the bathroom was set behind glass so the view extended through the space, with a double vanity and a walk-in shower.

There’s a range of standard rooms and larger suites, including one-, two-, and three-bedroom options with kitchens, dining tables, and laundry. The Oceanfront rooms sit directly above the water, while the Ocean View category is set farther back across the property — you still see the Atlantic, though from farther back. Some suites also come with larger terraces and private hot tubs. A final wing is being added with about 20 additional rooms, though construction had little impact on my stay.

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The Oceanfront Room is the one I’d go back for — and not only for the view. The hotel manager mentioned that guests sometimes spot whales from their rooms during the season, which I assumed was unlikely. But on my second day, I looked out from the balcony and saw one breach a couple of times just beyond the reef line. I stood there for several minutes, not quite taking in what I was seeing.

What to do at Azura, from the ocean pool to wellness treatments

It was hard to ignore how present the ocean is across the property. The Ocean Pool was where I spent most of my time. You don’t fully register how high up the hotel sits until you start down the steps to the pool — a descent through dense greenery that separates it from the rest of the property. At the base of the limestone cliffs, the pool is carved into the rock and fed directly by the Atlantic, although it’s noticeably warmer than the surrounding water. At high tide, a low stone wall is the only thing between you and the open ocean, where small swells roll in but break before reaching the pool. Cream canvas sun loungers and teal umbrellas are set out on the sand beside it, the color of the umbrellas matching the water beyond.

The rest of the swimming pools are spread across different levels of the property. Just off the lobby and restaurant is the Terrace, which is the busiest during the day. Higher up, beside the yoga deck, is the Sky Pool, with an infinity edge where complimentary classes are held on Saturday mornings at 9 AM. And then there’s the Palm Pool, which sits separately near the gym. It’s a great place cool down after a workout.

The wellness center is mid-expansion, so treatments are currently offered in-room. The massage table was set up just inside the balcony doors, with the sound of waves below, and at some point, I drifted off.

What to expect from dining at Azura

Restaurant SURF takes its name from the beach club that occupied the site before Azura and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The space is finished with warm wood, cane chairs with blush cushions, and a checkerboard tile floor, while tall windows on one side look straight out to the Atlantic.

Breakfast can also be taken on the terrace by the pool, which is where I ate most mornings. I had eggs Benedict with hollandaise and roasted potatoes, with a fruit plate of mango, berries, and watermelon on the side. With the ocean directly in front of me, mornings out there were hard to beat.

Lunch at SURF is a casual affair of flatbreads, sandwiches, and salads of goat cheese and truffle, best enjoyed with a glass of rosé.

I opted for the five-course set menu at dinner. The miso-glazed halibut was buttery soft, its umami depth carrying through the zucchini noodles and complementing the zingy pineapple chutney on the side. Dessert was the most memorable part of the meal. The degustation platter is five individual sweets on one plate, all made in-house by the pastry chef, which works well if you want to try a bit of everything. The lemon mille-feuille cheesecake was the standout: crisp pastry layered with raspberry and citrus, the filling soft without being too sweet.

What to do around the hotel

Crystal Caves: In 1907, two boys chasing a lost cricket ball stumbled upon a hole in the ground that led to an underground cavern formed during the Ice Age, filled with white stalactite formations surrounding a crystal-clear subterranean lake 55 feet deep. Today, you can walk across floating pontoon bridges over that same luminous water while a guide explains the geology and how it was discovered. It’s more impressive in person than you might expect.

Café Olé: Raisin bread, fried fish, coleslaw. Not a combination I would have put together myself. Café Olé, right next to Crystal Caves, serves what many consider the best fish sandwich in Bermuda, and after one bite, I wasn’t arguing. The fish is lightly fried, satisfying without weighing you down for an afternoon of exploring.

Horseshoe Bay: About a 10-minute drive from Azura, Horseshoe Bay is Bermuda’s most recognized stretch of sand, its pale pink color coming from crushed coral and shells. The main beach draws the crowds, but at either end, the coastline breaks into rocky inlets and narrow strips of sand where it’s noticeably quieter. It fills up when cruise ships are in port, so early morning or late afternoon is the best time to go.

Gibbs Hill Lighthouse: Built in 1844 and one of the first cast-iron lighthouses in the world, Gibbs Hill is one of Bermuda’s most recognizable landmarks. Climb the 185-step spiral staircase to a viewing platform with uninterrupted views across the South Shore, the Great Sound, and the island’s surrounding reef line. Those reefs — and the shipwrecks scattered among them — are part of what makes Bermuda one of the best places in the Atlantic for snorkeling.

Whale watching: Bermuda sits along a humpback whale migration route, and between March and April, tour boats head out specifically to spot them. I came close to booking one — and then saw a whale from my balcony on the second morning. That said, seeing them from the water is a different experience entirely. If you’re prone to seasickness, it’s worth keeping that in mind, but for anyone who wants to get closer, the tours are well worth it.

Getting to Azura Bermuda

Bermuda is easily reached from the US and Canada, with direct flights from several major cities. From Charlotte, the flight is just under two hours — enough to board in the morning and be at the pool with a rum swizzle by early afternoon. From the airport, Azura is about 25 minutes by taxi, and the hotel can arrange your transfer. It feels far removed from the US the moment you step off the plane, and yet it’s right there. That combination of proximity and complete escape is rare, and it’s one of the best things about this island.

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