Mangroves, Mollusks, and Frozen Key Lime Pie: Cruising to Southwest Florida's Cabbage Key

Technically, yes, I was on vacation. But when you spend years studying climate science and oceanography, you can’t not get excited about what’s happening under the waves.

We made the eight-mile journey past mangrove-covered shores up to Cabbage Key in about an hour. The Lady Chadwick, a 65-foot-long vessel, travels around three times slower than the fastest dolphins can swim, but I quickly discovered the relaxed pace has two key boons for cruisers: a smooth, wave-free cruise with ample time to watch the shore roll by and the possibility of dolphins hitching a ride.

Captain Richard explained that the fun-loving creatures adore frolicking in the ship’s wake. Sometimes, they’ll swim up alongside the boat and crest the waves, treating riders to a delightful show. He wasn’t wrong — dolphins joined us for the ride on three separate occasions.

He also explained that the glassy, cruise-friendly water can be largely chalked up to one thing: barrier islands. North Captiva Island and Cayo Costa are two of the sand-based barrier islands that make up over 700 miles of the Florida coast and protect the mainland from the tempestuous open ocean.

But, because they’re sand-based, the edges of barrier islands shift relatively easily. Just over 100 years ago, Captiva and North Captiva Islands were a single landmass. Two 1920s hurricanes carved out a permanent channel between them. This is Redfish Pass, a 33-foot-deep strait connecting Pine Island Sound with the Gulf that’s full of brackish water and a diversity of marine life. According to Captain Richard, it’s a fisherman’s dream.

It also sets up perfect conditions for shelling.

“Here in southwest Florida, we have a very shallow, extensive continental shelf offshore,” José Leal, the science director and curator of the Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum and Aquarium in Sanibel Island, told me later. The museum, which houses 600,000 shells, is the country’s only accredited museum devoted solely to shells and mollusks.

From an oceanographic perspective, Leal explained, that’s why Sanibel — and southwest Florida more broadly — is nicknamed the “seashell capital” of the world. Coupled with the wave patterns and the island’s east-to-west orientation, it’s a hotbed for corals, crustaceans, and mollusks.

He also told me that nearly 30 years have gone into creating and perfecting the museum’s Southwest Florida Shells Guide, which lays out over 400 species of marine mollusks found near Sanibel and Captiva.

The region is also a great example of what’s called the “edge effect,” which causes rich biodiversity at the borders between different ecosystems, such as that between seagrass and mangrove habitats. Many of the mangrove habitats were wiped out by flooding from Hurricane Ian; Leal, however, noted that “the animals are resilient and tend to bounce back” even as stronger hurricanes happen more frequently.

Captain Richard pointed out that the Lady Chadwick passes by a prime example of that edge effect — the intersection of seagrass and mangrove habitats — as it navigates the estuarine water on the way to Cabbage Key.

“It’s a great office out here,” he added quickly, before launching into a thorough exploration of North Captiva’s quirks.

One of the most fascinating tidbits? There are no cars on the island. The 30 to 40 full-time residents must rely on golf carts (or kayaks) to transport food and other items from delivery boats, and the off-grid homes are powered by a combination of solar panels and propane generators. Nonetheless, a private grass airstrip known as the “Salty Approach” makes it easy for residents and visitors alike to fly in.

By the time Captain Richard had finished walking us through how Spanish colonial history shaped the region — Florida remained under Spanish control until 1821, and fish ranchos were a key part of Southwest Florida’s economy — we’d arrived. Cabbage Key awaited us.

It’s a quick walk from the dock up to the Cabbage Key Inn & Restaurant, which hosts the island’s one eatery and six guest rooms in a nearly 100-year-old house. Over the years, Cabbage Key has drawn famous faces like Jimmy Carter, John F. Kennedy Jr., and repeat customer Jimmy Buffett. Legend has it the restaurant was Buffett’s inspiration behind his famous song, Cheeseburger in Paradise.

Inside, the restaurant walls are covered — and I mean covered — with signed one dollar bills. The exact number varies, but the restaurant estimates that between $75,000 and $100,000 hangs at any given time.

It all started when local fishermen who frequented the inn would leave a signed dollar bill behind the bar to start a tab for their next visit once they finished their meals. Decades later, the tradition stuck around; the restaurant provides tape and permanent markers to those who want to leave their mark — and their money — on the bar’s ever-changing wallpaper.

Captain Richard also told us that between $10,000 and $15,000 falls off every year, all of which is donated to local children’s charities and conservation organizations.

While I didn’t try the famous cheeseburger, a heaping mound of the restaurant’s rice and beans and a slice of the frozen key lime pie left this vegetarian full-bellied and refreshed despite the Gulf Coast humidity. I’ve heard the fish dip, grilled Reuben, and signature Cabbage Creeper cocktail also aren’t to be missed for those looking for a taste of Old Florida.

A historic water-tower-turned-observation-platform rests just past the restaurant’s back patio. I slogged up the 41 stairs to the top. The panoramic view of Pine Island Sound made the climb worth it, even as I cursed Florida’s summer heat. Of course, I promptly set out on the island’s nature loop, a one-third-mile trail where not one but two of Cabbage Key’s gopher tortoises crossed my path.

A quick peek into the island’s new ice cream shop and a mosey through the gift shop — both of which are also operated by the inn — rounded out the afternoon. It was time to set off on our return journey.
Even as we cruised back toward McCarthy’s Marina, Cabbage Key’s Old Florida charm, layered past, and vibrant ecology seemed to linger just beneath the surface.

Things to do after a Cabbage Key excursion

If you still have energy to explore after your day on the water, there are plenty of ways to spend your afternoon and evening in the area. Stop by RC Otter’s for a quick bite or a drink immediately after you return to the mainland — the no-frills, bungalow-style restaurant serves hearty meals right across the street from Captiva Cruises’ marina.

On your way back to the mainland, wander into the Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum and Aquarium and wile away an hour or two perusing the permanent collection, seasonal displays, and touch-tank exhibits. Lighthouse Park and Bowman’s Beach are two great places for shelling and growing your collection. Keep in mind, though, that the county has a live-shelling ban — make sure no animals are still living in any of the shells you collect. José Leal, the museum curator, also recommends creating a catalog of where and when each shell was found. The museum’s Southwest Florida Shells Guide can be a great help to identify the species.

After you’ve rinsed the sunscreen away at your hotel or Airbnb — I’d recommend the Luminary Hotel & Co. in downtown Fort Myers, if you’re looking for somewhere to stay — walk a few blocks over to Bruno’s of Brooklyn. The Italian eatery serves the best of Sicilian cuisine by way of two New Yorkers turned Florida transplants. Visit with an empty stomach (you’ll want to eat everything) and know that Bruno’s is extraordinarily accommodating for those of us with dietary restrictions. Imported from Italy, the gluten-free pasta is phenomenal, and the puttanesca and long-stem artichokes are must-tries, as is the melt-in-your-mouth limoncello cake.

Beacon Social Drinkery is a wonderful choice for post-dinner drinks and sunset views from the 12th-story rooftop lounge overlooking the water. My recommendation? Mr. Dean’s Martini, the bar’s take on an espresso martini using espresso from a local coffee shop and a perfect nightcap to round out your trip to Fort Myers and Captiva.