This Adults-Only Hotel Encapsulates The Best of Spain's Costa Brava

Modern Mediterranean rooms with a view

Photo courtesy Casa del Pi

When in the Med, never say “no” to a sea view. I was left speechless watching the sun rise and set from the balcony of my Deluxe Sea View Room. At night, I left the balcony doors open to benefit from a soothing breeze and soundtrack of waves. Although rooms have blackout blinds, I left these open to enjoy dawn wake-up calls.

The decor had a nautical touch with a sand and pebble gray palette; hardwood flooring and corrugated wood panels added warmth and texture. The rest of the hotel carries a subtle marine theme through carvings of sea creatures and glass chandeliers that made me think of shoals. Some areas sported countryside artifacts, harking back to the building’s original purpose as a masia, or traditional farmhouse.

All 49 rooms come with a terrace and most have a sea view but there are a few exceptions. Waking up to a sea view was a highlight of my stay, followed swiftly by a nightly spa circuit.

Rest, relaxation, and wildness at Cala del Pi Beach Resort

Photo courtesy Casa del Pi

Cala del Pi Beach Resort pulled out all the stops with its spa: 600 square meters (6,458 square feet) of twinkling aquamarine mosaics, handsome terracotta columns, and jetted gizmos. Hotel guests have two hours of complimentary use each day whereas non-residents can enter for a fee of €40 (about $42). The suite features a large pool with hydrotherapy beds, cannons, and massaging waterfalls.

There’s also a hot tub (almost made redundant by the pool), foot spa, dry sauna, steam room, and a trio of therapeutic showers. Guests can flit between the facilities or follow the suggested spa circuit. I visited the spa each evening and rated the nighttime ambiance; daytime visitors will appreciate the sunlight trickling in through the glass roof.

The hotel has three tiered outdoor pools surrounded by Mediterranean foliage. The largest – and deepest – almost creates the illusion of an infinity pool. The hotel’s “Yoguilates” and “Aquayoga” classes are free for guests. There are three weekly classes in summer and one per week in winter.

Cala del Pi is one of the prettiest Costa Brava beaches in Platja d’Aro. This cove has a mix of sand and fine pebbles plus natural diving boards popular with local daredevils in summer. Even during fall, I could splash around without catching a chill.

This public beach is shared by hotel guests and the Platja d’Aro community who turn up on evenings to kick a ball around. As the Camí de Ronda crosses through the beach, there is a steady flow of long-distance and day hikers passing by. After countless jaunts down to the beach, I can confirm the hotel’s private passage has fewer steps than the public path.

Mediterranean dining à deux

Photo: Hannah D. Cooper

The adults-only Restaurante Aurum serves Catalan cuisine to a Costa Brava seascape. There’s a well-rounded selection of shellfish and many fish dishes are infused with Iberian cuts. Around a third of the dishes are designed to share between two – after all, this is a hotel for romancing.

After a day spent vaulting over boulders and grazing on bocadillos, all I wanted to do was conk out on my balcony and catch the last hour of daylight. Room service, it was. The truffle risotto was thick with Iberian pork and nutty porcini. On the side, I pecked at tomato-rubbed bread and was glad I left room for a lip-smacking Manchego cheesecake.

The air had an autumnal nip to it during my November stay but I was perfectly content to sit outside on the terrace for breakfast each morning and imagine what a sweet spot this must be in summer. The buffet spread was Mediterranean through and through: I piled my plate with grilled asparagus and bell peppers, drizzled olive oil over crusty bread, and nibbled on cold cuts and pastries. Besides a selection of zumo de naranja, there were bottles of cava and light white wines from the Empordà hills.

The bars and restaurants of Platja d’Aro are within tottering distance of Cala del Pi Beach Resort. A taxi takes just five minutes.

Getting around the Costa Brava

Photo: kavalenkava /Shutterstock

Just south of the midway point between Portbou and Blanes, the hotel’s location in the heart of the Costa Brava can’t be beat. It’s helpful but not essential to have a car in Empordà – it streamlines getting around the inland villages and seaside towns. As the Costa Brava and Girona Pyrenees are a major cycling destination in Spain, the region has great infrastructure for road and mountain bikes. Cala del Pi Beach Resort has ample parking and bike storage.

Regional buses are operated by Moventis and tend to be at least an hour apart; seasonal schedules are displayed at bus stops and posted online. It’s wise to pre-book tickets during summer but otherwise, they can be purchased at bus stations and onboard. The fastest buses to Platja d’Aro from Girona take around an hour and Girona-Costa Brava Airport is 30 minutes away.

Cala del Pi Beach Resort can assist with curating Empordà wine tours and private sailing excursions. The Wild Coast is by far the most adventurous of the Spanish costas, and while it would be tempting to hole up for a week of sunning and spa-ing, it would do the region a disservice.

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