Hot Take: Grand Teton National Park Is Even Better When It’s Frozen

The late Olaus Murie, who lived at the ranch and played an instrumental role in passing the Wilderness Act of 1964, was the son of Norwegian immigrants. It’s not surprising he settled in a valley where subzero temps aren’t abnormal. After all, the most famous Norwegian saying outside of Norway translates to, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing.”

With that in mind, here’s why you should plan a winter weekend in Grand Teton National Park, and just as importantly, what to pack.

Fewer tourists mean no traffic jams, plenty of parking, and fewer distractions.

Photo: Katie Jackson

The final numbers aren’t in yet, but Grand Teton National Park welcomed at least 3.72 million visitors in 2025. It wasn’t enough to shatter 2021’s record. However, it did mark the second-busiest year in park history. While I would never discourage anyone from visiting during its peak season — summer — in the guidebooks I’ve written about Grand Teton National Park, I always include disclaimers. Expect sold-out accommodations, brace yourself for bumper-to-bumper traffic, and if you want a parking spot at a popular trailhead, get there before the sun gets up.

Fortunately, none of those potential dealbreakers apply in the winter. For every nine people you’ll encounter in Grand Teton in July, you’ll only run into one in January. Furthermore, there’s a good chance it’s a local getting some recreation. Most year-round residents would rather get their back waxed than venture into the park when it’s teeming with tourists.

While trails may be less accessible during the colder months, the trade-off is that you don’t need to worry about bears, which can be a nuisance at best and dangerous at worst when they’re not hibernating. Plus, with most visitor centers and services closed, or open for reduced hours, I find myself spending less money (I’m a sucker for gift shops) and more time taking in the scenery sans distraction.

From cross-country skiing to stargazing, there’s plenty to do.

Photo: Jay Nel-McIntosh

A carpet of wildflowers is pretty, but you can’t do much with it. Picking them violates one of the seven principles of Leave No Trace. But when it comes to a blanket of snow, no park ranger is going to “tsk tsk” you for touching it. In fact, they encourage it.

We ran into park rangers on skis as we cross-country skied to the Lucas-Fabian Homestead. The modest log-and-stone structures date back to 1913 when Geraldine Lucas built them. A plaque by her old cabin reads, “She bucked tradition by leaving her husband and returning to college as a single mother.” Later, at the age of 58, she made history when she became the second woman to summit the iconic Grand Teton.

Lucas relied on a sled and a team of Alaskan malamutes to get around in the winter. These days, dogs aren’t allowed in the park, but there are other means of over-snow transportation. Because the park has impeccably groomed trails, cross-country skiing and skate skiing are both popular. And two years ago, my husband and I set off on snowshoes with our favorite tour guide, Bo Welden, a naturalist for Jackson Hole EcoTour Adventures. We floated through conifer forests and over silent meadows, amazed at how many animal tracks — which Welden identified — were preserved in the fresh powder.

Colder temps result in clearer skies, so stargazing is easier in winter, too. Grand Teton National Park is located in Wyoming’s Teton County, which made headlines last April when it became the first county in the world to be designated an International Dark Sky Community. Book a tour with Jackson-based Wyoming Stargazing, and bundle up before you venture into the park at sunset. With an astronomer guide by your side, post up at a state-of-the-art telescope, your portal to the planets and cosmos beyond. If you’re really lucky, the aurora borealis may even make an appearance.

You have a better chance of seeing wolves and other wildlife.

Photos: Jay Nel-McIntosh

Santa has Rudolph and Comet. Shandell, one of the horse-drawn sleigh drivers at the National Elk Refuge, relies on Ruger and Colt. As the two 2,000-pound Percheron horses pulled us closer to the herd, chewing their cud while curled up in the snow, Shandell rattled off facts like, “Did you know elk antlers can grow up to an inch per day?” and “Fermentation in their four stomachs keeps them warm, and they’re comfortable until it’s about −40℉ out.” The refuge, which borders Grand Teton National Park to the south, is home to 9,500 elk. Winter is the optimal time to observe them because they’re feeding at lower elevations where the snow isn’t as deep.

Because elk are the preferred prey of the elusive Canis lupus, wolf sightings are also more common from December through March. One year, we spotted a pack in Grand Teton National Park within 15 minutes of setting out on our 4×4 wildlife safari. Before we could even get out our cameras, Welden, who had been behind the wheel of the luxury SUV, had safely pulled over and set up his spotting scope. I’ve visited Yellowstone and Grand Teton a dozen times and have never seen wolves in the summer. Moose also have dark fur that’s easier to see (and photograph) against a white backdrop.

There’s always something fun going on in the town of Jackson and Teton Village.

Photos: Jay Nel-McIntosh

While some national park gateway towns become ghost towns in the winter, Jackson and Teton Village go full bore. My four-night stay last week didn’t fall over a holiday weekend, but it was still far from sleepy.

Former Olympic figure skaters put on free performances at the Town Square outdoor rink, kids played hide-and-seek in the life-sized snow sculpture kingdom at Teton Village, and sled dogs ruled Jackson’s city streets during the ceremonial opening of the annual Pedigree Stage Stop Race, a sled-dog competition that starts in Jackson Hole and traverses western Wyoming (and sometimes parts of Idaho). The line to get into the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar wrapped around the block, retail shops were open late, and my favorite restaurant and wine bar, Bin 22, was buzzing (literally and figuratively). Pro tip: Try to get a seat on its heated outdoor patio.

Meanwhile, at Snow King Resort, where I usually stay in Jackson, we faced a plethora of temptations every time we stepped out the front door. Snow King Mountain boasts downhill skiing and snowboarding, scenic gondola rides, snow tubing, and the crazy fun Cowboy Coaster. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is even larger. It offers backcountry skiing, heli-skiing, snowcat skiing, fat biking, and snowmobiling. We capped off our day of downhill skiing there with the appropriate après activities: slinging back drinks and singing along to a live band in the Mangy Moose. Locals and tourists alike have been “gettin’ loose” there since before we landed on the moon!

All you need to have a good time is the right gear.

Photo: Jay Nel-McIntosh

The secret to visiting Grand Teton National Park in the winter is what you pack in your suitcase. Speaking of luggage, look for weather-resistant materials and oversized wheels capable of traversing through snow. I used the Thule Chasm Wheeled Duffel, and because I brought so many bulky layers, the Thule compression packing cubes were clutch. For a parka, you can’t go wrong with down, whether it’s natural or synthetic. It’s super warm and compresses easily. My Fjallraven Expedition Down Lite Jacket, for example, kept me nice and toasty on the sleigh ride when I was sitting still for an hour in below-freezing temps. Plus, it packs down to take up as little space as a neck pillow.

For skiing, I wore PFAS-free waterproof outerwear by Stio, a brand born and still based in Jackson. You can shop its flagship store downtown or order gear online. The built-in suede wipe on the thumb of the Stio Objective Insulated Mitts is a game changer when you have a runny nose, and thanks to the GORE-TEX PLUS WARM insert, my hands stayed warm. My toes, meanwhile, never went numb while walking around thanks to my insulated Hoka boots. They’re rated for temps as low as −25℉, and their Vibram® Megagrip outsoles kept me upright on slick surfaces.

I’m also a huge fan of merino wool base layers because the fibers are naturally breathable, moisture-wicking, and odor-resistant. After four days of wearing my Ridge Merino base layers for cross-country skiing, downhill skiing, and bumming around town, they still passed my sniff test. And I highly recommend the brand’s Cloudripper Grid Fleece Balaclava for keeping your face warm. Unlike the balaclavas that soldiers relied on during the Crimean War (where they were invented), Ridge Merino’s balaclava features a stretchy upper panel designed to fit under a ski helmet. Eyewear is also important at high altitudes (the average elevation in Jackson Hole is 6,800 feet) where solar radiation is even more intense. I opted for Smith’s Venture sunglasses for cross-country skiing because they come with side shields (removable) that prevent peripheral glare from the snow.

Last but not least, pack an insulated mug because it’s easier to get dehydrated in colder temps. Plus, drinking hot beverages is one of the fastest ways to warm up. The coffee I poured in my YETI Tumbler at 7 AM was still piping hot after sitting in a car in single-digit temps for five hours. Yes, YETI is pricey, but the leakproof magnet lid is convenient to open and close, making it a lifesaver when it’s too cold to take off your mitts. I also kept a Mountain Shot in my pocket because every skier knows that whiskey provides much-needed psychological warmth.

Finally, if you want to prepare your own food outdoors, make sure there are no fire restrictions, then consider Camp Chef’s portable pizza oven. It heats up to 700 ℉ and cooked our post-cross-country-skiing pizzas in less than 10 minutes.

• Where to stay: The Anvil is a hip hotel within walking distance of everything in downtown Jackson, and it’s not hard to find rates under $200. My favorite ski-in, ski-out property is Snow King Resort (rates from $240/night) because it’s dog-friendly (no weight limits), parking is free, and there’s an on-site spa, restaurant, and gear shop. Note: it’s rebranding this summer to become Trailborn Jackson Hole.
• Getting there and around: Jackson is your winter gateway to Grand Teton National Park. Salt Lake City, a 4.5-hour drive to the south, is the nearest major city. Fortunately, Jackson Hole Airport (JAC) is serviced by four major airlines and offers nonstop flights to and from Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Dallas, Houston, Chicago, New York, and Atlanta, among other major cities. If you’ll be visiting the park on your own, you’ll need to rent a car at the airport. Otherwise, you can rely on Uber or Lyft, town shuttles, and guided tours.
• How to plan your trip: Whether you’re after the latest grooming report, need an interactive map of Grand Teton National Park, or want to check out the community calendar, Visit Jackson Hole can hook you up with the appropriate app.