There’s Nothing Like Fall in the Smokies. Here’s Where to Start.

I was fortunate to visit Haywood County in early October when fall’s first whispers were starting to tinge treetops, and notes of crimson were beginning to light up the Blue Ridge Parkway. One year post-Hurricane Helene, locals were eager to share their stories of resilience. Despite the heavy flooding and wind damage endured, Haywood County’s businesses were up and running, thriving even, ready to welcome visitors back with their special brand of Carolina hospitality.

From waterfall hikes and ranch relaxing to legendary pancakes and wild foraged cocktails, Haywood County is the secret to a dreamy fall trip in the Smokies and its surroundings — and this guide will get you started.

A gateway to nature’s best: What to do on a fall trip to Haywood County

Explore Great Smoky Mountains National Park

They call the Smokies the “land of the noonday sun” because of the way the low-hanging smoke-like fog lingers over the treetops until the sun finally burns it off midday. It’s part of the area’s mystical draw and makes for cool, peaceful mornings.

I woke before sunrise to start the climbing drive from Waynesville up through the lush temperate rain forest and into the Cataloochee Valley. Dawn and dusk are the best times to see wildlife, and my early efforts were rewarded with sightings of wild turkey, black bear, and the park’s abundant elk population. Peeking into the preserved schoolhouse and homes from the early 1900s was a treat and a quick lesson in the region’s lineage.

Another morning was spent sucking in cool Smoky Mountain air on a hike up to Hemphill Bald at The Swag luxury resort (call ahead to book a day pass; even better, book a wild cocktail foraging hike with Lee Trebotich, owner of Food For Adventures). The Swag borders the national park and offers self-guided and guided hiking options that reveal endless multi-state views. Keep an eye out for Mount Mitchell — the tallest peak east of the Mississippi.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: 5770-7494 Old Cataloochee Turnpike, Waynesville, NC 28785

Drive and hike the Blue Ridge Parkway

Skirting Great Smoky Mountains National Park and several national forests, the Haywood County section of the Blue Ridge Parkway spans 46 miles and tops out above 6,000 feet. Mouth-gaping vistas emerge from every corner as you wind through endless balsam, spruce, and hemlock (the blue hue coming from the terpenes the trees release).

I savored the “quiet side of the Smokies” with a photo stop at roadside Sunburst Falls (find it south of Canton along NC Highway 215) and a waterfall-laced hike at Graveyard Fields — named for the scattered tree stumps left behind from logging and fires. The 2.3-mile well-marked loop is an immersive must, traveling past tiered cascades, dense forest, and wild blackberry bushes.

Blue Ridge Parkway: Canton, NC

Fish the Pigeon River

Though the October temps were too chilly to dip into the Pigeon River, I was enamored by the incredibly clear headwaters flowing through the county. Tip: The tap water here is delicious, so stay hydrated and drink up.

Fall is also an excellent time to fish here, either by fly or conventially. As the water temperature drops, trout become more active and feed aggressively to prepare for winter. September through early-October is best for the season. Try fishing the West Fork near Lake Logan (with a license and some research into the local regulations).

I plan to return in the summer and float the river with Cold Mountain Tubing, grab a day pass and a kayak at Lake Logan retreat center, and fly fish for some of those famous trout gracing so many local menus.

Lake Logan:Lake Logan Road, Canton, NC 28716

Shop and pick at orchards and farm stands

Hardworking Haywood County farmers keep agritourism going strong. Listening to Kathy Taylor of KT’s Orchard and Apiary talk about how disconnected we’ve become with the farmers who grow our food was inspiring. She and her husband have been running their farm for 30 years and welcome folks to hang out in the rolling orchard, let the kids run around and pick apples, drink fresh-pressed juice, and shop for honey. (Apple season runs July through November.) Don’t miss KT’s apple and raspberry hand pies available on select weekends.

Family-operated for more than five generations, Barber Orchards Fruit Stand draws long lines. Loyal regulars come from states away for apple cider donuts, homemade pies, bins of fresh-picked produce, and delicacies like apple pie cookies and fritters. Barber’s stand is open August through Christmas Eve.

KT’s Orchard and Apiary: 158 Pigeon Ford Rd., Canton, NC 28716
Barber Orchards Fruit Stand: 2855 Old Balsam Rd., Waynesville, NC 28786

Catch a festival, market, or guided tour

Fall is ripe with Haywood County festivals and markets. On the first Friday of the month, May through December, Downtown Waynesville hosts Art After Dark. Galleries and shops stay open until 9 PM for the strolling celebration of art and music. The Haywood County Arts Council is a treasure trove of creative expression. Sign up for an art class, studio tour, or paint and sip event (and don’t miss the annual Appalachian Heritage Festival if you’re visiting in May).

Fill your basket with locally grown produce, flowers, honey, heritage crafts, and baked goods at Haywood’s Historic Farmers Market held Saturdays, April through December. Dip into the area’s deep Appalachian roots with clogging, square dancing, and two-stepping at Stompin’ Grounds. The largest dance hall in the southeast reopens in May 2026 with a fresh look.

Once a land of bear hunters and moon shiners, Haywood County’s lore is best uncovered on a guided walking tour with Ginger Aumen. Tour downtown Waynesville with this highly entertaining 12th-generation North Carolinian for glimpses into the historic district’s hauntings and unsolved mysteries. Ask about the legend of Boojum — the region’s jewel-snatching version of Sasquatch carries quite the story.

Waynesville Walking Tours: 16 S. Main St., Waynesville, NC 28786

Where to fuel up for your Haywood County adventures

Joey’s Pancake House

Get your flapjack fix at this Maggie Valley institution, celebrating 60 years in 2026. The pancakes here are legendary — Paula Dean stops for Joey’s fluffy stacks whenever she’s passing through. The orange-blackberry ricotta cakes are heavenly, and the cheesy hashbrown casserole is a must.

Joey’s Pancake House: 4309 Soco Rd., Maggie Valley, NC 28751

The Switchback

Plucked straight from the cover of Southern Living Magazine (literally, it was featured in the magazine’s October Fall Getaways issue), Cataloochee Ranch sits high on a ridgeline and is famous for its opulent restaurant, The Switchback. Order the locally farmed Sunburst trout, vegetables of the moment, and wild mushrooms foraged on-property that day.

The Switchback: 119 Ranch Dr., Maggie Valley, NC 28751

Rocky Face Tavern

Lunch with a mountainous golf course view is best served on the covered outdoor terrace at Rocky Face Tavern inside Canton’s Springdale Resort. You can’t go wrong with the tavern grilled lamb chops or pimento cheese bacon burger.

Rocky Face Tavern: 180 Golfwatch Rd., Canton, NC 28716

Southern Porch

Inside the charming, restored 1920 Imperial Hotel building, this family-run favorite hits all the Southern classics. This is where it’s completely appropriate to go big and order comfort dishes like crab-sauced shrimp and grits, griddled cornbread, and beer-braised collards and bacon dip. Wash it down with a sweet tea mint julep.

Southern Porch: 449 Main St., Canton, NC 28716

Blue Ghost Outpost

For a quick grab-n-go breakfast, the Blue Ghost coffee bar and provisions shop will set you up. The specialty lattes and seasonal drinks are as warm and welcoming as the adorable shop and smiling staff.

Blue Ghost Outpost: 4594 Jonathan Creek Rd., Waynesville, NC 28785

Beach Mountain Diner

This classic diner is known for its fried chicken and Belgian waffles with blueberry butter. For a Southern plate that will get your day going, order the eggs on the bayou — a poached egg on a grilled English muffin with bacon, crab, and hollandaise. Order the grits on the side; you won’t be disappointed.

Beach Mountain Diner: 429 Hazelwood Ave., Waynesville, NC 28786

The Scotsman Public House

This dark, moody Celtic haven specializes in Scottish highland dishes and traditional pub brews. Take in the historic 1927 Masonic Lodge decked in plaid and swords while noshing on Scotch eggs dipped in curry mustard, Irish onion soup, and a cozy skillet of shepherd’s pie.

The Scotsman Public House: 37 Church St., Waynesville, NC 28786

Crown & Thistle Tea Room

Channel your inner Bridgerton for the most delightfully delicious afternoon tea experience. Choose from 40 varieties of tea and work your way through tiers of delicate finger sandwiches, homemade scones, and decadent dessert bites at this sister-owned Waynesville spot.

Crown & Thistle Tea Room: 62 Overbrook St., Suite C, Waynesville, NC 28786

Singletree Heritage Kitchen

Chef Josh Weeks’s menu brings guests together over sensibly sourced, intentionally curated heritage foods that tell a story. The handpicked local basil and heirloom tomatoes on charred sourdough, followed by the Creole seafood stew — North Carolina clams, amberjack, and prawns — was perfection.

Singletree Heritage Kitchen: 136 Depot St., # 101, Waynesville, NC 28786

Where to stay in Haywood County

Honestly, everywhere in Haywood County feels like a beautiful, mountain-flanked home away from home. I stayed in a Pigeon River Mountain Retreat luxury log cabin and felt like a queen. The stunning property spans more than 500 acres and sits at the confluence of the Pigeon River and Jonathan Creek.

Perched at 3,200 feet, the estate sleeps 90 across six mountain lodges and additional accommodations and is popular with celebrities (there’s a helipad for discreet arrivals and departures), weddings (there’s a chapel and private tavern onsite), and family reunions (think game rooms, pickleball courts, and river tubing).

Pigeon River Mountain Retreat: 1610 Perth Rd., Clyde, NC 28721

Getting to and around Haywood County

The easiest way to travel to Haywood County is to fly into Asheville’s recently expanded airport (AVL) and rent a car. The drive into Haywood County is just 40 minutes west on I-40. You’ll want a car for all of the scenic drives and national park exploration, as well as to travel between the county’s five communities. I flew direct from Denver to Asheville on a comfortable three-hour flight.