Inside This Secluded Vermont Glampsite, the Gilded Age Awaits

Opened in 2022, the Highwood Retreat is an off-the-grid and mostly self-sustaining property that consists of a single canvas safari tent. But this is no ordinary tent. It measures 400 square feet of interior space that’s dominated by two plush chairs and an enormous queen-sized bed topped with Brooklinen sateen sheets. Much like a hotel, guests will find amenities including linens, towels, robes, slippers, and extra blankets, as well as plenty of tea and fresh coffee. You can even enjoy a relaxing shower in the property’s seasonal outdoor cedar-wood stall. But for guests staying at the Highwood Retreat, the greatest luxury of all is its location.

From its high vantage point and unobstructed view of the quiet, isolated glen, guests can experience the lush greenery of a Vermont spring or summer, the dazzling colors of fall, or the breathtaking scene of a snowy New England winter just by stepping outside onto the porch.

Arriving at the Highwood Retreat

The Highwood Retreat experience begins the moment you’re greeted by your hosts, husband-and-wife team Sam Parsons and Katharine Mangold. Several years ago, they gave up the glamor of Hollywood — he was a cameraman, she was an actress — to pursue their dream of opening a luxury camp that leaves guests feeling “rejuvenated, inspired, and connected to the essence of the wilderness and each other.”

After a quick and pleasant run-through of any special needs you might have, the amenities you can expect at the camp, and how to stay in touch with your hosts, Parsons swings your bags into the back of his golf cart and cruises along a narrow, winding dirt road through the woods. Climbing a small hill, the cart descends into a wide, open clearing — looming high up and far across the field, the camp presents like a mirage in the emptiness of the tranquil afternoon. You hold your breath as the cart slowly approaches and deposits you at the foot of the camp.

The Highwood Retreat tent is raised up high on a sturdy foundation of stilts to keep it safe from the elements. A set of wooden stairs takes you to the first level, revealing a large deck complete with lounge chairs and an umbrella, a table, a cooler for your drinks, and a heater for the chilly nights. The stairs continue up to the front porch of the tent where you’ll notice a pallet piled high with firewood, ready to feed the indoor wood-burning stove that doubles as a fireplace. If your arrival is after dark, two old-style electric lamps help illuminate the entrance to the tent.

Entering your room with a view

Even if you’ve been glamping before, nothing will prepare you for your first impression of the Highwood Retreat as you raise the heavy canvas tent flaps. You’re immediately struck by the sight of a queen-sized bed and two stuffed, velvety chairs. It feels as if you’ve just stepped through a portal into a luxury hotel or perhaps a classic novel. The hosts spared no expense toward making guests feel special, with furniture that reflects the glamor of the Gilded Age.

If it’s a particularly cold day, the cast-iron stove will already be ablaze and radiating its gentle warmth. In its glow, you’ll see a bookshelf lined with classic literature and another with tea and coffee that you can brew yourself using an electric kettle and a carafe.

Continuing left past the bed is the bathroom area, which is sectioned off by a curtain. There, you’ll find a table with a vanity mirror and chair for your beauty regimen, as well as a sink with a large water dispenser for washing your hands and face. There’s an odorless, off-the-grid composting toilet, as well as plenty of face towels rolled up for your use.

On the other side of the room is a small closet area where you’ll discover body towels, bathrobes and slippers, extra blankets, and a small rack for hanging your clothes. There are no TVs or WiFi, but you shouldn’t have any problems using your cell phone throughout your stay.

The camp is generally self-sufficient, thanks to a small bank of solar panels outside, with a back-up generator that’s ready to kick in during extended cloudy days. That means you’ll have no trouble keeping all the lights on and recharging your cell phone; however, you’re requested not to use anything too powerful, such as a hair dryer.

After a quick tour and final instructions from your host, it’s time to unpack for your stay. There’s an instruction manual that explains how to use the toilet, operate the stove, and turn on the highly efficient propane heaters, which can quickly warm up the room when temperatures drop. If the night is especially cold, the bed also comes with an electric mattress.

Dining at the Highwood Retreat

Unlike most hotels, the Highwood Retreat has no traditional meal service, so you should be prepared to bring your own food or dine out. However, the camp does offer room service from a limited menu of shareables. These include a cheese and charcuterie board brimming with plump grapes, a variety of cheeses, rolled ham, sausages, nuts, and bread, as well as other finger foods that are delivered to your front porch. You can also choose from an eclectic range of specialty wine, beer, and cocktails. In the morning, enjoy a continental breakfast of lox and bagels or a bagel with cream cheese, croissants, and a tall glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. You make your own coffee or tea with hot water from the electric kettle.

It’s worth the experience to request the cheeseboard and the hosts’ signature cocktails, a mezcalitti, which is a mixture of mezcal, Amaro, and a dash of fresh orange juice. The ensemble arrives quickly at your doorstep – or tent flap, as it were – via the hosts’ private golf cart. The cheeseboard is protected by a clear plastic cover, and the alcohol rests snugly in a wicker basket inside a tin flask. All you have to do is pour the cocktail into the shaker provided, which comes with an enormous chuck of ice, and enjoy your drink – shaken, of course, not stirred.

If you plan on purchasing groceries, there’s a supermarket in town, but keep in mind that the camp has no refrigeration. For formal dining, you can head to the numerous restaurants just minutes away by car. Nearby dining options include The Copper Fox in the center of Springfield, which features live music and special events throughout the year; Wunderbar in the town of Bellows Falls, housed in a rustic country lodge atmosphere that’s favored by the locals; and casual dining at the Phelps Barn Pub in the town of Grafton. If you’re craving French cuisine, try Burdick’s, located about 20 minutes away across the border in Walpole, New Hampshire.

Note that some of these establishments may operate seasonally, so be sure to check what’s open before your visit, and make reservations in advance.

Spending the night at the Highwood Retreat

One can imagine, on warm summer nights, sitting on the porch under the stars, talking about life and feeling all the stress from the world you left behind melting away. Or maybe you’ll be sitting around the campfire, a refreshment in hand, quietly enjoying the moment. You have the Highwood Retreat all to yourself with no sounds to disturb you but those of nature.

After retiring to the tent for the night, sink into one of the comfortable plush chairs in front of the bed, nibbling on shareable treats with a tall glass of craft beer in hand, and watch the dancing flames inside the stove. Connect your phone to the tent’s Bose Bluetooth speaker and listen to your favorite music. It’s easy to forget that you’re inside of a large tent in the middle of a field somewhere in Vermont, surrounded by total darkness underneath an immense sky that’s unspoiled by glaring city lights. When you finally turn in for the night, you’ll drift to sleep inside of enfolding layers of thick quilts, embraced by a bank of soft, plush pillows.

In the morning, you’ll awake feeling refreshed. The fire from the stove may have died out — if it’s chilly, embrace your pioneering spirit to light the stove once more. Gather a handful of wood shavings, crumble up one of the provided sheets of craft papers, and set it all ablaze inside the stove with a long match. Add an armful of logs, blow gently on the developing flames until they catch, and proudly watch a fire you started almost from scratch blazing away.

Later, when you step out onto the front porch to greet the day, you’re sure to be impressed yet again by the view — the wide expanse of open field and dazzling sky. At the Highwood Retreat, surrounded by nothing but trees, you’ll truly feel close to nature and one with the world.

Getting to the Highwood Retreat

The Highwood Retreat is located in the small town of Springfield, Vermont, just off the main road. It’s open year-round and easy to reach by car — it’s a roughly four-hour drive from New York or 2.5-hour drive from Boston. You can also take an Amtrak train, which stops at Bellows Falls, from where you can arrange for your own car service or have your hosts pick you up.

Prices for Highwood Retreat start at $195 per night for up to two guests. Pets are welcome for a flat fee of $25 for a maximum of two dogs. Shuttle service between Amtrak’s Bellows Falls station and the camp is a flat rate of $30. In addition to traditional stays, Highwood Retreat is available for special occasions and celebrations, such as birthdays, honeymoons, and anniversaries. Coming from a Hollywood movie background, the hosts are experts at helping guests arrange for “spectacular flourishes and extras” to make their special events exciting.

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