Fairy Tales, Castles, and Viking Lore: Inside the Island of Fyn, Denmark

Fyn is Denmark’s second most populated island after Zealand, where Copenhagen lies. It’s filled with fascinating castles and immense history that call upon visitors to use their imaginations just like Andersen did. Around every storybook corner on, there awaits real-world points of interest, from Viking cultural relics to exciting street food, that prove there’s a lot more to see in Denmark than its capital city.

Things to do on the island of Fyn

Get to know Denmark’s most famous author

H.C. Andersen Hus

This museum invites visitors to dive into the mind of Hans Christian Andersen. But there’s a lot to admire before you step inside. Japanese architect Kengo Kuma won a competition to design the museum. He was inspired by the half-timber houses that are so famous on Fyn, and Denmark at large, and designed a series of sleek and fluid buildings accordingly.

Inside, rather than displaying beautiful artifacts behind glass walls, the museum immerses visitors as if Andersen himself is guiding you through it. The museum is set mostly underground and takes you through four different sections: Butterfly, My Children, Reflections, and, you guessed it, Fairytales. The first three sections give a glimpse into Andersen’s life, including love letters, early works, and his history with a town that shunned him.

The best part comes last. The museum worked with 12 different artists to bring Andersen’s most popular stories to life. You can stand at a spotlight on the floor and The Shadow story will play out in front of you using your silhouette. You can try on the titular Emperor’s new clothes and listen to Andersen’s eponymous Nightingale sing its song. Or you can lay on the soft rocks in The Little Mermaid and look up at the ceiling where the world outside is visible. You can even see the real pea that inspired the Princess and the Pea. Expect to stay here for at least an hour.

Audio tours of the museum are offered in four different languages, with each guide varying depending on the narrator and what they felt was most interesting.

The H.C. Andersen Hus also has a special place designed for kids: Ville Vau. (The whole museum is free for anyone under 18 who’s accompanied by an adult.) Ville Vau is a fantastical world where little ones (and their parents) can dress up as princesses or jesters in a castle or don a swan costume and hang out in the pond.

After a long day spent devouring the museum’s contents, stop by the on-property Café Deilig for some actual sustenance and grab a sandwich named after Andersen’s works.

H.C. Andersen Hus: H.C. Andersen Haven 1, 5000 Odense C, Denmark

Andersen’s Childhood Home

With a ticket to the H.C. Andersen Hus, you also get a tour through his three-room, half-timbered childhood home, which is connected to the museum. See where Andersen lived until he was 14 years old, where honed his incredible imagination in the courtyard behind his house, and where he began weaving his famous fairytales.

Andersen’s Childhood Home: Munkemøllestræde 3, 5000 Odense, Denmark

H.C. Andersen Walking Tour

You can, quite literally, walk in Andersen’s footsteps (complete with his size 13 shoe imprints on the sidewalk). The tour follows a 1.5- to 2.5-mile path that stops at landmarks like the Odense Castle where Andersen played in the gardens with the prince and the church where he was baptized. Eventually, you make your way to the FairyTale Garden where a statue of the author stands tall before ending back at his childhood home.

H.C. Andersen Walking Tour: Old Odense, Fyn, Denmark

H.C. Andersen Festivals

Every late August — or Week 34 as the Danes call it — a visual arts festival takes place in honor of Hans Christian Andersen. Since 2013, the H.C. Andersen Festivals has brought together artists from all over the world to perform their acts in stunning and creative ways along the streets and parks of Odense. Performances range from acrobatic feats to comedic acts like Italian clowns trying to make pizza. Most of the H.C. Andersen Festivals is free, with only a select few performances that are ticketed. With around 350,000 people visiting the festival every day, it’s one of the largest in Denmark and shouldn’t be missed.

H.C. Andersen Festivals: Odense, Fyn, Denmark

Head to the coast

South Fyn Archipelago

The South Fyn Archipelago is officially designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark, which refers to a region that’s holistically managed to protect, educate, and develop sustainably. There are almost 800,000 years of geological history within the archipelago, thanks to a “drowned” ice age. You can download the Geopark app (iOS and Android) to guide you through all of the organizations, sites, and companies that are involved in the South Fyn Geopark.

South Fyn Archipelago Geopark: Frederiksgade 12, 5700 Svendborg, Denmark

Invisible Theatre from BaggårdTeatret

This tour ushers guests through the town of Marstal at their own pace as they listen to the story of We, The Drowned by the Danish author Carsten Jensen. Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, who played Jaime Lannister in Game of Thrones, voices one of the characters. The tour is just over three miles and will take most people approximately two hours to complete.

Invisible Theatre from BaggårdTeatret: Marstal, Denmark

Marstal Maritime Museum

Despite the large ship’s bow that protrudes from the exterior, this unassuming museum looks like a quaint point of interest inside of a historic building — until you step inside. What you’ll find when you do is room after room of treasures and trinkets, exquisite model ships, historic photographs, and more. Keep following the red arrows on the floor, and you’ll find your way out.

Marstal Maritime Museum: Prinsensgade 1, 5960 Marstal, Denmark

Deep dive into Viking history

Odense Cathedral

In 1080 AD, King Knud, the last Viking king, was ruthless. He killed opposing Vikings with the goal of taking back control of England. Knud gathered 50-100 ships in a fjord to raid England on his command. When he took too long, people got angry, and Knud fled south to Odense.

Knud was killed on the night of July 10 when he was doing his evening prayers, and the church was overrun by an angry mob. This was considered the end of the Viking age and the beginning of Christianity and the Middle Ages. You can visit the bones of Knud and his brother, who was also killed in the raid, in the Odense Cathedral where they died.

Odense Cathedral: Klingenberg 19, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Odins Odense

Although not technically in the Viking Age, Odins Odense is a replica of an Iron Age village from the era before the Vikings. Guests can visit this place in two ways: a day trip or tour and an overnight experience. When you visit, you’ll be placed back in time when food was simple and mead was flowing. You’ll see the various dwellings from that era and partake in activities from 2,000 years ago. Adults and kids alike will enjoy the adventure back in time with a rune hunt or other ancient games that you can play.

Odins Odense: Store Klaus 40, 5270 Odense N, Denmark

The Viking Museum Ladby

The Viking Museum Ladby holds Denmark’s oldest royal tomb in the shape of a Viking ship. One thousand years ago, a Danish royal — known due to the nature of the burial though the body wasn’t there when the tomb was dug up — was buried with his three dogs, nine horses, an extensive weapon collection, and various other items to accompany him into his afterlife.

The ship grave was uncovered in 1935 and is now uncovered but protected behind glass at the museum. You can still see bones from the horses that were buried with the king. There’s a replica burial site that visitors can see before venturing into the actual grave. It’s hard to understand the immense length of the ship (over 70 feet) until you see it in person. During the summer months, you can also view another replica that sits at the dock on the property.

The Viking Museum Ladby: Vikingevej 123, 5300 Kerteminde, Denmark

Nonnebakken

When most people think of Bluetooth, they think of the process of wirelessly connecting two devices. But Bluetooth was also the name of a Viking king. King Harald Bluetooth lived in the late 900s — no, that’s not a typo, it was over 1,000 years ago — and Nonnebakken was one of the ring fortresses that’s attributed to the Viking king.

Five ring fortresses across Denmark, including Nonnebakken, received UNESCO World Heritage status in 2023. Although the fortress can’t be seen in its entirety in Odense, you can see traces of it, including part of the rampart wall near Odd Fellow Lodge and another part in a private school’s parking lot and playground (complete with Odin and Thor sculptures). You can see a 1:30 scale of Nonnebakken just north of the Odd Fellow Lodge in the park there.

Nonnebakken: Odense, Fyn, Denmark

Admire the architecture

Egeskov Castle

One of Europe’s best preserved water castles, Egeskov Castle looks like something out of a book. It’s known as a living castle since there are people who actually reside there year-round. Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and Princess Alexandra of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg are the current occupants and can be seen walking the grounds and greeting guests often. The castle has been in the Count’s family since the American Revolution. The castle gets about 300,000 visitors every year who come to admire the property’s dozen gardens, eight museums, hedge labyrinth, treetop walk, and a handful of places to dine (try Brasserie Rigborg).

Egeskov Castle: Egeskov Gade 22, 5772 Kværndrup, Denmark

Night watchmen of Ærøskøbing

Touring Ærøskøbing with night watchmen is more of a thriller or historical fiction than a fairytale. In 1702, a young woman was attacked and robbed in the town. From then until 1863, the night watchmen walked and protected the town’s streets, lighting lamps as they went while singing their songs to the chimes of the church bells. Tours will lead you along the quintessential cobblestone streets of Ærøskøbing where you’ll hear stories about the old houses and their inhabitants. If you’re lucky, the night watchmen leading your group might give you an old tune they used to sing to distinguish the hours throughout the night.

Night watchmen of Ærøskøbing: Ærøskøbing, Ærø, Denmark

Castle and manor road trip

There are a total of 123 castles and manors on Fyn — the largest concentration anywhere in Scandinavia. You can’t visit all of them in one go, and some aren’t even open to the public. But the ones that are open are breathtaking. Walk along the secluded paths of the Romantic Garden, or sleep in the same bed as the baron at Broholm Castle. Or you can simply follow map directions to view all the castles and manors from the comfort of your own car.

Go on a souvenir shopping spree

Ærø Soap Company

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Owned by a German and a Canadian, Ærø Soap Company takes pride in embodying the natural scent of the island of Ærø. The company rotates about 20 soaps throughout the year with seasonal ones coming and going. The shop does, however, have a few soaps that are constantly on its shelves due to popularity. Its most asked for scent, lavender, comes from the 1,000 lavender plants that the shop has on the property. Susanna, one of the owners and a master soapmaker, says she “loves that everyone who buys a bar of soap here goes home with a bit of the scent they have grown to love so much.”

Ærø Soap Company: Vester Bregninge 31, 5970 Ærøskøbing, Denmark

Hattesens Konfektfabrik

Black licorice is a Danish delicacy. This is not your average Twizzlers you’d find in an American grocery store. The texture is much different, and the flavors are incredibly diverse. Even if you aren’t a fan of black licorice in the States, you should try it in Denmark — and Hattesens Konfektfabrik on the island of Ærø has something truly unique. Claus Hattesen, the owner and dreamer behind the brand, wanted something better than the usual licorice. He developed new flavors using traditional methods, removing more sugar while keeping the natural flavor. The use of seaweed as gelatin (rather than animal fat) gives this licorice a truly distinctive flavor profile.

Hattesens Konfektfabrik: Vestergade 2, 5970 Ærøskøbing, Denmark

Gift shops

At almost every museum mentioned above, there’s an adjoining gift shop. These shops are perfect for grabbing small gifts for those who weren’t able to make the trip with you or mementos to remember your incredible trip. One of the better gift shops is the one at the H.C. Andersen Hus where you can pick up his fairy tales in many languages and the shop at Ladby. Make sure to grab a Viking sword and shield to battle with later.

Where to eat on the island of Fyn

Café Fleuri

Step off of the main thoroughfare in Odense (aka the “bike highway”) and head into the quiet courtyard of Café Fleuri. You’ll find a seat at one of the many tables in a quaint courtyard while vines and hanging plants cascade down its interior walls. The menu reflects the same coziness and whimsy, focusing on small plates with high quality.

Café Fleuri: Nørregade 28, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Storms Pakhus

Odense’s Storms Pakhus operates out of a renovated warehouse that springs to life with dozens of vendors selling all types of street food. From pizza and burgers to sushi, curry, and gyros, there’s a meal for every age and palate. The cafeteria-style seating allows friends to gather together or for strangers to strike up a conversation.

Storms Pakhus: Lerchesgade 4, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Midtfyns Bryghus

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Just meeting the owner of Midtfyns Bryghus is enough reason to visit this microbrewery. Eddie Szweda is American born but has lived in Denmark for decades. He took over Midtfyns Bryghus in 2006 and has been there since. Come for a tasting — with Szweda, the experience is “80 percent entertainment and 20 percent beer.”

Midtfyns Bryghus: Industrivej 11-13, 5792 Årslev, Denmark

Madklubben

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Good food doesn’t have to mean astronomical prices — at least, that’s what the Madklubben’s owner, Anders Asgaard, thinks. Madklubben is a place for everyone to gather and savor their food, from simple dishes like cheeseburgers to tandoori and the classic “Welfare Pig,” a crispy pork dish that comes with grilled veggies, pickles, and herbs.

Madklubben: Jernbanegade 4, st th, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Stokkebye Vineyard

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Owners Jacob and Helle take the wine-making business seriously. When you think of Denmark, vineyards might not come to mind, but the Stokkebyes have persevered. They specialize in white and sparkling wines and produce upwards of 20,000 bottles every year. Their wine is found in several restaurants throughout Europe, including Michelin-starred establishments. Their story is a beautiful one where family comes first and wine second. Their logo is an intertwined tree, falcon, and star, which represents their three children whom the wine is named after. You can book wine tastings and vineyard tours as well as caviar and wine pairings.

Stokkebye Vineyard: Kertemindevej 152, 5800 Nyborg, Denmark

Restaurant ARO

Odense’s latest Michelin star restaurant takes form in a former factory used to make heating parts. It almost looks like an abandoned building from the outside, but once inside, you’ll be struck by a humble dining room that seats two dozen. You might get lucky if your party is small, but reservations are out for at least six months — and for good reason. The food is immaculately crafted and beautifully presented. Guests can choose between three, four, five, or seven courses to make it as simple or as extravagant as you’d like.

Restaurant ARO: Østerbro 32, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Where to stay on the island of Fyn

Hotel Odeon

Just a hop, skip, and a jump from the Odense train station, Hotel Odeon is a particularly great place to stay if you’re without a car. It’s located in the heart of the city and steps from the H.C. Andersen Hus. If you have a bike, the hotel is next to the main thoroughfare that has been transformed into a bike highway where you can easily maneuver yourself throughout town.

Hotel Odeon: Odeons Kvarter 11, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Hotel På Torvet

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Located on the island of Ærø, Hotel På Torvet is an experience all on its own. There are suites (complete with separate living and sleeping areas) as well as apartments for those needing more of a home-away-from-home feel. All of the rooms are in two historic buildings dating back to the 1800s: the School House or the Lantern Factory. The hotel is located in central Ærøskøbing where you can easily walk the charming cobblestone streets throughout town.

Hotel På Torvet: Torvet 7, 5970 Ærøskøbing, Denmark

How to get to and around the island of Fyn

For American travelers, Copenhagen Airport (CPH) is the best place to fly into to get to Fyn. Several US cities have nonstop flights to Copenhagen on Scandinavian Airlines (SAS), including Atlanta, Boston, Miami, Los Angeles, New York City via John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK), Chicago, and Washington, DC. SAS is one of the most sustainable airlines to date and committed to cutting carbon emissions by 25 percent across the whole company by 2025. Within Scandinavia, the airline is phasing out emissions entirely by 2030, and SAS has also invested in hybrid electric planes that will take flight in 2028.

Upon arrival in Copenhagen, you can take a 75-minute express train ride from the station directly below CPH to the Odense station on Fyn. Odense, the island’s largest city, is easily walkable, and the city bus can help you get around town. However, you’ll need to rent a car to visit some of the more unique places around the island.

To get to the South Fyn Archipelago and the island of Ærø, you can book a seat on one of the four Ærøfærgern’s ferries. It only takes about 55 to 75 minutes depending on the ferry you take. As with most public transport in the country, bicycles are welcome onboard. Book your ticket in advance online or get one from the ticket kiosks in Svendborg or Ærøskøbing.