Inside Italy's 'Paradice Music,' the All-Ice, Sub-Zero Concerts in a Glacial Igloo

But when skiing in Pontedilegno-Tonale, an area known for its expansive and tree-free beginner area, towering Presena Glacier, and expert-level trails, there’s a third option for evening entertainment: enter the Paradice Music Festival. It’s a series of classical and contemporary concerts held on select evenings every winter.

 

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Imagine venturing up a gondola to a staggering 2,600 meters above sea level, where a snow-covered glacier extends above the clouds. There, as the sun sets on snow-capped peaks, you see an inconspicuous mound of white snow, revealing a single wooden door. Step through it, and you’ll realize it’s actually a shimmering glass igloo, arranged like an amphitheater. As you settle into your seat – essentially, an ice bench with a couple of cushions — you’ll start to look around, and it’s then that you notice the showstopper: every single instrument, from the drum kit to the cello, guitar, and everything in-between, is made from ice. There are ice horns, ice ukuleles, and even a frozen didgeridoo.

The ParadIce Music ice concerts are some of the most unique in the world, enough to melt even the iciest of skeptics’ hearts.

How the sub-zero Paradice music ice concerts came to be

I was lucky enough to experience one of the ParadIce Music concerts when the band played a tribute to Queen. It was one of two dozen 2023-2024 winter season concerts, which have become a celebrated tradition in the tiny town of Passo del Tonale, in the Italian Dolomites. Born from a desire to showcase the region’s stunning natural beauty while also highlighting local musicians, these concerts have evolved into something truly special. Each year, the concerts draw both international tourists and international musicians, though the standing house band is immensely talented even without any well-known frontman or woman.

The seed was planted for the Paradice Music festival in 2017, when American artist Tim Linhart built an ice cello on the glacier. Remarkably, the cello then traveled across Italy to top theaters, played by famed Italian composer and cellist Giovanni Sollima. After its final concert in Sicily, it was melted in a grand fashion in the Mediterranean Sea. The experience made Linhart want to return in 2018 to build a 200-seat ice theater — which he did, along with ice instruments, with assistance from artists in nearby villages. That was the first year of the Paradice Music concerts. Now, they take place annually, with local artists giving new life to the instruments, the ice igloo, and the events every winter.

About the ice concerts

Photo: Vale di Sole/Tommaso Prugnola/PontediLegno-Tonale

Paradice Music’s igloo venue is crafted from scratch each year, so concerts happen only during cold winter months, from January to March. Concerts are usually twice a week on Thursday and Saturday evenings, with a complete schedule of events typically published on the Ponte di Legno-Tonale website at the beginning of the ski season. Usually, one evening will be a Paradice orchestra tribute show, as with my Queen-inspired concert, while the other hosts a guest artist.

This past season’s lineup included diverse talent, from regional folk music to well-known Italian opera singers, local classical composers, and tributes to famous British artists like the Beatles or Queen. Paradice Music concerts in 2024-2025 will include a tribute to Seattle’s grunge scene (so get ready for some Nirvana) and an Irish folk band, among other unique picks.

Ticket prices vary depending on each event and the artists involved, ranging from 30 to 50 euros ($33-$55), with discounted kids tickets. You’ll also need to purchase the gondola ticket (12 euros, or $13) if you don’t have a ski pass. You can buy day-of concert tickets at the bottom of the gondola, but the intimate setting means you should book your tickets in advance to ensure a seat, especially for popular performances. Online sales close 48 hours before each concert.

The ride to the concerts takes about seven minutes via the Paradiso Gondola, or cable car. Photo: COLOMBO NICOLA/Shutterstock

Ponte di Legno-Tonale is accessible by car from major cities like Milan (2 hours, 45 minutes) or Verona (2 hours, 30 minutes), and the scenic drive through the Dolomites adds to the adventure. The drive can be much slower during winter snowstorms, but there’s plenty of free parking at the base of the Paradiso gondola, even if you arrive a little late. Public transport to the region is limited.

However, I recommend extending your trip by a few days to enjoy the magnificent ski area. The entire area is called Pontedilegno-Tonale, with four distinct areas within that. Together, they have 15 miles of beginner slopes (blue), 38 miles of red (intermediate), and nine black, or expert-level, slopes. All are directly available from the town of Passo del Tonale, at the base of the Paradiso gondola, which carries you to the concerts. It’s a relatively small resort as far as European ski resorts go, but it has plenty to fill a few days of activity, including night skiing four days per week. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in Passo del Tonale.

Tips for attending the Paradice music festival

Photo: Vale di Sole/PontediLegno-Tonale

Though the ambiance is enchanting, the temperatures are chilly – you’re on a glacier, after all. It’s often snowing at altitude, and you’ll need to wait outside after exiting the gondola until the igloo doors open 15 minutes before the concert. Once you’re inside the igloo, it’s still an icy affair, and ice melts above 32 degrees Fahrenheit – so any heaters or fires would spoil the show.

It’s strongly recommended that you dress in warm ski clothing, including your ski pants and jackets, insulated boots, gloves, and a beanie to ensure you stay comfortable throughout the evening. An insulated down jacket under a ski shell would help. You can expect the musicians to be donning their winter base layers and thick beanies and jackets – completely different stage attire from the formal wear they’re likely used to.

It’s also best to arrive as early as possible. Concerts typically start at 6 PM, and having a ticket means you can jump on the gondola beginning at 5:30 PM. Taking the earliest possible gondola will put you at the front of the entrance line, and while that does mean more time standing outside in the cold, it also means you’ll be able to grab a spot near the front as seating is first-come, first-served. Sitting near the front lets you see the impressive ice instruments up close. That said, the igloo is relatively small, so you’ll still have good views from the last row. Usually, the musicians hang around for a few minutes after the concert so guests can see the ice instruments in person, even if they’re among the last to claim a seat.

Concert-goers can take a close look at the ice instruments in person before and after the show. Photo: Janine Avery

The restaurants at the top of the gondola are typically closed by the time the concerts start, so don’t expect to find any drinks or snacks at the top. However, guests can bring insulated bottles, so feel free to carry hot tea or cocoa for the performance. On select nights, the restaurant and bar Passo Paradiso (which also has an ice hotel) at the top of the gondola opens after the concert, so you can enjoy a high-altitude, multi-course dinner if you’ve made an advanced reservation. But even if you don’t manage to book a table during one of those special evenings, the concerts are usually only around an hour long, so there’s plenty of time after for a late dinner (or a few of those delicious bombardini) just a few minutes away in Passo del Tonale.

Whether you’re a music enthusiast or simply seeking a memorable experience, the Paradice Music ice concerts will likely deliver. Attending one is such a unique and enchanting experience that, if you’re anything like me, you’ll think they’re just as impressive as the mountains themselves.