A juvenile mountain gorilla Rwanda. Photo: Suzie Dundas

Places That Changed Us: Rwanda

Rwanda Wildlife Sustainability
by Suzie Dundas Jan 1, 2025

This is part of the “Places That Changed Us” series, a compilation of 20 trips that have had a lasting impact on the Matador Network team. To see the other 19 places, click here.

In 2023, I went to Rwanda on a work trip to cover the concept of do-it-yourself safaris in the tiny African nation. To put it plainly, the trip was nothing short of transformative. People seemed friendlier and chattier than in the US by a mile, from the children chasing me for high fives as I biked through villages to your average person working in a restaurant. It’s an inspiring kindness perhaps rooted in unimaginable hardship, given the country’s horrific civil war in the early 1990s. But the nation rebuilt itself from the depths of tragedy, turning a dark past into a bright future by intentionally rebuilding from the ground up to create a country that values civic engagement, protects its natural resources, and encourages economic growth through programs designed to promote sustainable, locally owned business ventures.

While other countries are struggling with deforestation and species loss, Rwanda is restoring lost species like African lions and white rhinos, both of which thrive in the country’s Akagera National Park. The focus on eco-friendly tourism is one of the best in the world, with nationwide bans on plastic bags and programs to take fourth-grade students on gorilla treks, ensuring Rwandans are exposed to the country’s treasures from an early age.

Photo: Suzie Dundas
A juvenile mountain gorilla in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie Dundas

And speaking of gorillas: I can’t recall a more profound wildlife experience than my trek in Volcanoes National Park. The one hour I spent with the endangered mountain gorillas – including the moment I could smell a silverback gorilla’s earthy, grass-covered fur as he checked me out – was one of the most humbling experiences of my life. I’ve never felt so lucky or privileged than when I was sharing air with intelligent creatures, and it’s hard not to feel like you’ve passed some kind of test when a baby gorilla tries to play with you and the mom nearby decides you’re not a threat, letting it happen.

And then, of course, there are the landscapes. Rwanda’s lush rolling hills, shrouded forests, and volcanic vistas feel almost otherworldly. Trekking through the misty mountains to see gorillas in their natural habitat was surreal, humbling, and stunning. But Rwanda feels like more than just a beautiful destination. The country is a powerful story of resilience and renewal that doesn’t shy away from its past, but isn’t defined by it, either. It’s a place that changes how you see the world and what a nation can achieve when it provides opportunities for growth and training, takes care of its environment, and embraces, rather than maligns, the diversity of all its citizens.

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