Carvings on the grounds of Santuario de Chimayo. Photos: Nickolaus Hines
We packed up the car and drove to Santuario de Chimayo, a national historic landmark near the High Road to Taos. This Catholic pilgrimage center is considered one of the most significant of its kind in the US, with its famed “healing soil” as a major draw. None of us are Catholic, or particularly religious in a traditional sense. We do however all enjoy seeing what brings hundreds of thousands of visitors and tens of thousands of pilgrims to a spot each year.
The adobe building complex is easy to miss from the main road. The adobe complex is easy to miss from the main road. A small turnoff leads to a parking lot far larger, and more crowded, than expected from the humble exit. There’s a gift shop, naturally, which also happens to be a great place to buy chiles and chile powder. The real draw (religious or not) is the site’s history that’s told through the architecture, landscaping, and grounds. Margot’s bright toddler giggles were a much needed and welcomed bit of levity here. El Santuario de Chimayó has drawn pilgrims since it was built in 1813. Catholic traditions and Native American beliefs converge here, reflected in the Spanish Colonial architecture and folk art that surround visitors inspired by the legend of the curative earth. Spend some time in the riverside courtyard, where running and laughter are welcome, then step quietly into the active church and chapel to take in the building’s peaceful interior
After, we had lunch at Rancho de Chimayó. This remote restaurant has become a destination since opening some 60 years ago. Ristras, the strings of New Mexico’s famous red chiles that hang from rafters and fences, line the entire facade of the building. The kitchen’s focus is on traditional New Mexican cuisine, and the dishes don’t disappoint. Green chile stew, carne adovada, chicken with calabacitas (a type of squash), hand-rolled tamales, and chile rellenos fill the menu. The sopapillas are dipped in local honey, and the prickly pears in the margaritas are sourced from nearby. The restaurant is an easy stop after visiting the Santuario, but worth the drive regardless.
Photo: Nickolaus Hines
With a little more time to spare before dropping my wife off at the airport, we stopped at Santa Fe Brewing Co. just a short drive away. The large courtyard was the ideal place to let Margot run with the handful of other toddlers there (and one hairless cat on a leash) while we sipped a beer and bought some cans to-go.